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Discussion Starter #1
The title gives the main symptom. Here are my KOEO crank stats:

IPR(%)
65.23 - 51.95(and holds)

ICP(PSI)
2139.79 - 1636.72(and holds)


ICP(Volt)
2.42 - 1.94(and holds)

RPM(rev/min)
121 - 117

FICMSYNC
Yes

FICM_LPWR(Volt)
9.52

FICM_MPWR(Volt)
48.46 - 48.5

FICM_VPWR(Volt)
9.57 - slowly drops as I crank

SYNC
Yes

FUELPW(ms)
2.11 - 3.14(and holds)


Here is what I have done so far:
- Two new batteries
- $700 brand new stock FORD FICM.
- Checked, and in some cases replaced or added ground straps
- Checked for fuel in the bowl(there is, fills right up again)
- Checked FICM(with volt meter) fuses and relays

Questions:
Could this be 8 injector stiction?
I changed the oil, drove 40 km, turned engine off. The next morning it wouldn't start.

Could a bad sensor disable the FICM 48v and not show up as a CEL code?
This is a Girardin Blue Bird Mini Bus - Ever heard of a after market cutoff for the FICM?

I put pictures of the beast in my profile if you want to take a look.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Two issues:
Low voltage
Cranking rpms need to be 150+ to start

Did it ever start w/ the new batteries, or was it always a no-start with them?

Probably should charge the batteries individually and then load test them. Then get the alternator tested.

Maybe the starter is dragging or even an air conditioner compressor is locking up. You can remove the belt and see if you get the needed cranking rpms.
 

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^^^^ What he said. lol Bismic knows his stuff. I have another question though. When you say no clatter, do you mean that there is no injector buzz when you turn the key on? If so, that's a whole other can of worms.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
^^^^ What he said. lol Bismic knows his stuff. I have another question though. When you say no clatter, do you mean that there is no injector buzz when you turn the key on? If so, that's a whole other can of worms.
There is NO injector buzz. The click-click-click-click that almost sounds like hitting the inside of a tin can is NOT there now but was the last time it started.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Two issues:
Low voltage
Cranking rpms need to be 150+ to start

Did it ever start w/ the new batteries, or was it always a no-start with them?

Probably should charge the batteries individually and then load test them. Then get the alternator tested.

Maybe the starter is dragging or even an air conditioner compressor is locking up. You can remove the belt and see if you get the needed cranking rpms.
I agree they are low, but I doubt it is what is keepign it from starting. There is also NO SMOKE when cranking. The last run was on old batteries. The FICM, new batteries, and ground straps were all installed after it would not start(brand new).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
One quick note, I did get clatter, or injector buzz once, as some call it once, but I didn't start the engine as I had the rad fluid out. It starterted out slow, then got faster, click...click..click.clickclickclick etc. The next time I tried, the clatter had stopped again.

Anyone want to pipe in about stiction on 8 injectors? Possible?
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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I agree they are low, but I doubt it is what is keepign it from starting. There is also NO SMOKE when cranking. The last run was on old batteries. The FICM, new batteries, and ground straps were all installed after it would not start(brand new).
Low voltage and low cranking rpms will in fact keep an engine from starting - period! 120 rpm just won't cut it, neither will 9.5 volts and dropping.

If you haven't already, you need to get that healthy before ruling out other things. Low voltage could also kill the new FICM - quickly. As an fyi - if you have issues w/ the FICM again, it is far better to send it to FICMrepair.com instead of getting a new unit.

I absolutely don't believe that you can have 1600 psig (let alone over 2000) for ICP at only 120 cranking rpms. I would take a close look at the the ICP wiring.

If you have cranking data on healthy batteries, then please post it.

If you think it could be injectors, you can check coil continuity and harness continuity. I would also make sure that the FICM plugs are no bent pins on the FICM connectors and that all connectors were all securely plugged in.
 

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EA - Eggfarts Anonymous!
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about the stiction... From my experience, injector stiction won't keep the engine from starting. It makes it harder to get started in the cold though, no doubt. And it will keep you from using the truck until the oil warms up lol!
 

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Has this new FICM ever done the injector buzz? I have came across some early models that don't do that. It must have been added as a software update some time after 03.

Agree it seems like a heat issue. Either the compression/rpms aren't enough, the glow plugs aren't working, Or the fuel pressure is not enough.

If you have a pulse width, it's probably not a ficm issue.

Try hooking a jumper to it and see if it starts, or, Some kind of starting fluid would also raise the rpms too. That's where I'd go with it.
 

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Mmw,

Pull your starter and get it checked. I'm driving a 97, but had a similar experience with slow cranking. I checked my batteries (which were good) and cables (a bit of corrosion). Finally, I pulled the starter and took it in to get it checked. With no load it was pulling well over 400 amps. The store didn't want to warranty it till I made them put a new starter on the stand which only pulled 50 amps no load(I got a "whoa" from the fellow on the difference). Took the new starter home and put it in and viola truck started great.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, doing some electrical tests:

- Will try cranking without the belt
- Going to load test the batteries
- Checking the ICP wiring
- Going to pull the starter

Will post results. I hate it when people ask for help, but don't post the outcome!
 

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Jamie,

I would say yes... but the real tell is the no load current of the starter motor. Anything over 50-60 amps at no load and the starter is probably on it way out. The OP could find a DC current clamp I suppose, but it needs to be rated to well over 1000 amps. I've had two starters go out this way. One shorted the test stand out and the other was pulling 200 amps just to run with no load. Changed them out and the truck started fine.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #14
UPDATE:
Pulled both NEW carquest gold batteries. Charged them independently, then checked. One was at 7.5v.....:lookaround: have no words..... Will replace and get back to you.

This could very well explain the low cranking RPM, and perhaps the inactive FICM. Voltage might be in spec., but there isn't enough current to do the job.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Hmmm ....
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Yup - sounded like a lot of cranking/start attempts w/ low voltage!
 
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