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<sideways skyscraper
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Discussion Starter #1
Okay so about 7000 miles ago I installed the 4th oil cooler on my truck, the truck currently has 77k on it. I've been running the amsoil bypass oil filter for about 15k and have had a coolant filter installed for a little less then 10k(replaced 4 times so far). I noticed about 2 weeks ago my eot and ect were averaging around a 10-15k split during normal driving. I figured no big deal its probably the weather(super hot down here right now) Well 2 days ago I was cruising down the interstate doing 70 and my ect topped off around 196-198 while eot's rose to over 225 knocking on 230.....My oil was changed around 1k miles ago and my coolant is 7k miles old, all the levels are right on the money.

I'm so lost and soooo sick of replacing oil coolers. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
 

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You been doing any coolant system flushes ? And you replaced the coolant filter 4 times in 10K miles !??? Did it actually need it or were you just being cautious ?
 

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FNG
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What kinda coolant are you running?

You obviously have another issue eating oil coolers
 

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Have you cut any of the oil coolers apart to make sure they are plugged or to see what is plugging them?
 

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If you are still running that Ford Gold coolant get that crap outta there. Flush it really good and then refill it with an ELC coolant from Cat, Rotella, or Fleetrite. That Gold crap has silicates that contribute to clogging your oil cooler up.
 

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Mean Green
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If you are still running that Ford Gold coolant get that crap outta there. Flush it really good and then refill it with an ELC coolant from Cat, Rotella, or Fleetrite. That Gold crap has silicates that contribute to clogging your oil cooler up.
So the ford gold coolant is bad for your truck? any place other than CAT u can buy that ELC?
 

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<sideways skyscraper
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Discussion Starter #7
I'm running motorcraft premium gold. It was flushed the first and second time, I didn't bother the last two times. I replaced the coolant filter 4 times so far because i had just installed it at the 66k mark, so yeah just being cautious I suppose. I cut each filter open each time and there has been plenty of junk inside, it got better after each filter though.

Also on a side note I add an extra 2-3 pints of oil during each oil change to compensate for the extra filter to keep oil on the stick, so im pretty close to 16 quarts in the pan. When I pull the stick its right on the money but there are small air bubbles on it. Could possible aerated oil be an issue here? And I run motorcraft 15-40 conventional with the stock filter of course.
 

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Mean Green
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I'm running motorcraft premium gold. It was flushed the first and second time, I didn't bother the last two times. I replaced the coolant filter 4 times so far because i had just installed it at the 66k mark, so yeah just being cautious I suppose. I cut each filter open each time and there has been plenty of junk inside, it got better after each filter though.

Also on a side note I add an extra 2-3 pints of oil during each oil change to compensate for the extra filter to keep oil on the stick, so im pretty close to 16 quarts in the pan. When I pull the stick its right on the money but there are small air bubbles on it. Could possible aerated oil be an issue here? And I run motorcraft 15-40 conventional with the stock filter of course.
Mine has the bubbles on the dipstick too an i went from 5w-40 to 15w-40.and it hasnt run worth a crap since. What is the cause of aerated oil and how does it affect the truck?
 

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I'm running motorcraft premium gold. It was flushed the first and second time, I didn't bother the last two times. I replaced the coolant filter 4 times so far because i had just installed it at the 66k mark, so yeah just being cautious I suppose. I cut each filter open each time and there has been plenty of junk inside, it got better after each filter though.

Also on a side note I add an extra 2-3 pints of oil during each oil change to compensate for the extra filter to keep oil on the stick, so im pretty close to 16 quarts in the pan. When I pull the stick its right on the money but there are small air bubbles on it. Could possible aerated oil be an issue here? And I run motorcraft 15-40 conventional with the stock filter of course.
I think you need to invest in an external oil cooler.
 

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it's an 02 05 08
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930 Posts
have you tried returning the truck to stock and then checking the temps,also ford sells a coolant flush believe its vg-7,it does wonders id try that before replacing another cooler
 

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FNG
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have you tried returning the truck to stock and then checking the temps,also ford sells a coolant flush believe its vg-7,it does wonders id try that before replacing another cooler
Its VC 9
 

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<sideways skyscraper
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Discussion Starter #12
have you tried returning the truck to stock and then checking the temps,also ford sells a coolant flush believe its vg-7,it does wonders id try that before replacing another cooler
I may just do this, nothing to lose at this point. I'm not sure if even a really strong flush will help a cooler on its way out though.
 

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Captain Negativity!
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3,109 Posts
Is the EGR cooler still there after the oil cooler? When you do the flushes are you purging the coolant from the heater core? Trucks with heater control valves don't flow coolant to the heater core at all times. If you NEVER use your heater. The core can fill with some nasty crap in there.
 

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Have you checked you Oil temp Sensor? Check it First thing in the morning (ice cold engine). Key On Engine Off. On your Scanner your coolant and oil temp should be about the same as the outside temp. The ECT and EOT sensors are the same part number. Both should read the same when cold. Could be the problem? I had the same issue! Ambient air temp 60,Coolant 61, oil 94. bad sensor.....I still did the oil cooler and EGR replacement(California) for peace of mine. Give it try... Let us know...
 

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Now I could be wrong...been known to happen now and again! But your coolant and oil temperatures won't be the same, I don't think. The oil is the first line coolant in the engine and absorbs the full heat of the mechanicals in the "friction zones". The coolant then sinks away the heat from the other side of metal walls from the mechanicals and friction zones. Nope, as I recall my thermodynamics, the coolant will always run cooler than the oil. And a 225-230 oil temp is not excessive by any means. For example, air-cooled motorcycles run oil at that temperature as a matter of course with zero problems and can heat up to 275 degrees before one needs to start paying attention and getting concerned with oil temperatures.
 

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Power Junky
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Now I could be wrong...been known to happen now and again! But your coolant and oil temperatures won't be the same, I don't think. The oil is the first line coolant in the engine and absorbs the full heat of the mechanicals in the "friction zones". The coolant then sinks away the heat from the other side of metal walls from the mechanicals and friction zones. Nope, as I recall my thermodynamics, the coolant will always run cooler than the oil. And a 225-230 oil temp is not excessive by any means. For example, air-cooled motorcycles run oil at that temperature as a matter of course with zero problems and can heat up to 275 degrees before one needs to start paying attention and getting concerned with oil temperatures.
From what I have gathered on the subject ford seems to think that when the difference in temprature
Between the oil and the coolant is 15* or greater then the oil cooler is restricted. Given the oiling system on our trucks running at elivated pressures the oil can get hot very quickly. Also given our entire fuel injection system is dependant on oil and likely at a certain viscosity the tempratures need to stay in check. Remember things that work in a air cooled motor are more of less stone age compared to the engine you are comparing it to. Now I may be wrong but I believe the tstat on the coolant opens fully at 190* and some where in the range of 215* is when the fans start to kick on. So that should tell you what ranges the oil temps is desired at. If you oil or coolant reaches 275* then worried is about the last of your problems. You do realize that the oil is cooled via a liquid to liquid cooler using the engine coolant to remove heat from the oil right. This is how and why they tie the temprature differences together. When the coolant starts to clog up and limit flow past the oil cooler. Tempratures then drastically climb in the next path of the coolant. The egr cooler. Under moderate throttle stock the coolant can flash boil. The excessive heat and the boiling of the coolant are again signs of a issue. At this point the poorly designed heat exchanger in the egr cooler is suseptable to metal fatigue and typically cracks alowing coolant to enter the intake and get burned off during operation or to hydrolock the motor after operation. Given that a lot of people don't see the signs that we have talked about and seldom check fluid levels in their vehicle. The coolant gets burned off typically white smoke is seen and a sweet exhaust smell is noticed. Once the coolant is burned off the engine will start to over heat and those pesky tty head bolts start to yeild a little bit more that factory specs. Could also be the steam left over from the remaining coolant... Yeah I wouldn't even be concerned with my oil temps till they hit 275*.
 

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Captain Negativity!
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Now I could be wrong...been known to happen now and again! But your coolant and oil temperatures won't be the same, I don't think. The oil is the first line coolant in the engine and absorbs the full heat of the mechanicals in the "friction zones". The coolant then sinks away the heat from the other side of metal walls from the mechanicals and friction zones. Nope, as I recall my thermodynamics, the coolant will always run cooler than the oil. And a 225-230 oil temp is not excessive by any means. For example, air-cooled motorcycles run oil at that temperature as a matter of course with zero problems and can heat up to 275 degrees before one needs to start paying attention and getting concerned with oil temperatures.
However. Since the oil cooler core has coolant running through it. And we have a large enough cooling system that Ford has deemed a ~20 degree split between the two to be excessive. Since the thermostat tries to keep things in the 190 degree range and then goes full open at ~220 and the pcm will begin to defuel the motor at ~255 degrees on both coolant or oil. Our coolant begins to boil at just a bit north of that even with the 16psi in the system. Worst case scenario at 300-350 the oil standpipe in the filter housing melts down in to the bearings. As ambient outside temp begins to climb at around 90+ degrees. The oil temp will begin to rise about 10 degrees warmer than the coolant.

Moral of the story. If you are getting the coolant or oil into the range of defuel. Stop. You are doing something wrong. If you see your oil temp getting 30 degrees warmer, you have a restriction in either system not allowing enough heat from the oil system to be dumped off to the coolant. Since you are getting the oil temp directly at the cooler you are seeing what is coming directly from the pan.
 

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<sideways skyscraper
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471 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Chiming in a little late here. The egr cooler was replaced with the oil cooler the last time it went out, although it was not blown. My truck does have the heater core bypass valve, my understanding was that the valve only closed during max a/c or recirc. I live in Florida so I'm on max a/c all the time and my heater only get used during the winter time. I never even considered the heater core as a possibility until now. One thing that has me wondering is if the heater core could plug the oil cooler, shouldn't my coolant filter be able to pick up most of the debris? Btw I've never purged the heater core of coolant, honestly I did't know you could even do that lol

Also I'm pretty positive my sensors are functioning properly seeing how each time the oil cooler was replaced the temps went back to normal. Although I must admit I've never monitored the voltage signals to see if they're with in spec

Also Doug I have another question for you, is there a "maximum" safe oil temp to be running at? Right now I average between 215-225 mixed driving rarely pushing 230. I'm really trying to avoid cracking/warping my heads until I'm able to replace the cooler again. Coolant temp always hangs around 190, it only really climbs higher when I'm beating on it
 

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You running a coolant filter?

What percentage coolant/water are you using.

Remember water has better "cooling" properties than antifreeze.
 
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