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Discussion Starter #1
Acquired a 7.3 plow truck 2000 cheap. Problem was you had to rev it to move. Pulled trans found intermediate gone and forward gone and reverse gone. Replaced the effected clutches and steels and the reverse drum as it was warped and the forward drum as it was pretty gummed up and the center support because someone did a bad job machining it. Also replaced intermediate Piston. Finally flushed cooler and replaced air to oil with a aftermarket for temporary use. Ran good in woods. Checked fluid level daily never burnt and good level. Went to gas station to fill it up as fuel barrel went empty. Left and wouldn't shift out of second. Limped it home. Now fluid has a slight burnt smell. Did I overheat it. Also now when hot it bogs in reverse and sometimes drive. 2 3 shift valve was stuck
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Just at a loss should I pull it and replace the pump. Or is it possible that it's the transtar torque converter. Heard good about them. In rerverse and drive it holds good. If you wait for it to stop bogging the TC unapplied and it's good until you #### again. I can creep up a hill steep hill maybe 50 degree slope or more for about 100 yards full load of wood in truck and trailer.
 

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Hang in there. I don’t know much about the 4r100. But we have an guy here that does. Let me see if I can get him to take a look at this thread
 

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Acquired a 7.3 plow truck 2000 cheap. Problem was you had to rev it to move. Pulled trans found intermediate gone and forward gone and reverse gone. Replaced the effected clutches and steels and the reverse drum as it was warped and the forward drum as it was pretty gummed up and the center support because someone did a bad job machining it. Also replaced intermediate Piston. Finally flushed cooler and replaced air to oil with a aftermarket for temporary use. Ran good in woods. Checked fluid level daily never burnt and good level. Went to gas station to fill it up as fuel barrel went empty. Left and wouldn't shift out of second. Limped it home. Now fluid has a slight burnt smell. Did I overheat it. Also now when hot it bogs in reverse and sometimes drive. 2 3 shift valve was stuck
When you were putting it together did you air check the clutches? If not you probably have a leak in the direct clutch, which caused a failure.

You can try a pressure gauge in the test port on the driver's side of the trans. Record pressures at idle in P, R, N, D, 2, and1. Record pressures at stall in R, D, 2 and 1.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I air checked everything. Only thing g was reverse slight leakage. I checked it wet and it was better so I left it I couldn't get it to seals any better even with a spare reverse Piston. 2-³ shift valve was suck i swapped valve bodies that day and solved that. All feels good minus the hot stalling and the slight burnt smell. Fluid is still pink
 

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Get a pressure gauge (0-350PSI) and install it in the test port. You need idle pressures in P, R, N, D, 2, and 1, and stall pressures in R, D, 2, and 1.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
P n I have around 55psi hot or cold
R 90 cold 55 hot
Od 55 hot and cold
2 55 hot and cold
1 100 cold 90 hot

Also tranny sticks in second again. With a different used valve body. Time for a new one or is case warped. Was running good untill I drove it to warm up this morning to plow and get my hot pressure readings never came out of second I'm sure if I went fast enough and let off it woulda went
 

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You have a leak in the direct clutch circuit. It could be a loose feed bolt or a problem inside the direct clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just pulled pan bolts still torqued 16 ft lbs and 2-3 valve was stuck open again. Direct leak will stick a valve? I just air checked again and direct sounds fine maybe a slight hiss but has substantial blow off when removing air gun. I do not have a pressure test plate. Reverse is a little leak but still has a nice this.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thud not this sorry. I see updated 2-3 valves that are steel any opinions on this. I'll have to pull tranny back out I guess and re check everything
 

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The stuck 2-3 valve could be the problem. I'd try to fix that issue and try it again.
 

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I have no experience with either an aftermarket valve body nor a steel valve. When I worked on valve bodies at Ford we were in the midst of changing all the steel valves to aluminum because the different expansion rates of steel and aluminum caused many stuck valves.
 

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Just pulled pan bolts still torqued 16 ft lbs and 2-3 valve was stuck open again. Direct leak will stick a valve? I just air checked again and direct sounds fine maybe a slight hiss but has substantial blow off when removing air gun. I do not have a pressure test plate. Reverse is a little leak but still has a nice this.
Pardon me for jumping in here, new to the site, but have been building transmissions for the past 31+ years, If you're getting a hiss when you air check the direct clutch through the case ? then you have a problem there, possibly a broken sealing ring if you used the metal ones, or damaged/torn ring if you used the Teflon ones, also its sound like you're getting contamination in the unit causing the stuck valve, if I understood one of your posts you installed an auxillary cooler ? Did you bypass the original cooler ? If not then even though you flushed it there was probably trash still left in the system, most Ford trucks already have an auxiliary cooler in front of the radiator besides the one that is built in to the radiator , the one up front is notoriously hard to get clean, in most transmission shops unless we were using a hot flusher we would simply remove the one out front and replace it with a good aftermarket , like a hayden transaver plus,

Also if you purchased that converter from Transtar in the last couple of years, I would take it back and get my money back. Transtar has had a tremendous amount of defective converters ever since they bought out Dacco and moved their converter operation to Tennessee, so much so most of the transmission industry will not buy converters from them anymore, I would suggest getting a CVC converter, distributed through a company called " Whatever it takes " . CVC makes some of the best converters in the business. Also you want to pay particular attention to the accumulator portion of the valvebody, ( the small section up front) if one of the small regular valves gets stuck with trash it can also affect shifting, very common on contaminated units, all those valves should be removed and cleaned, just be careful not to scratch the bores, there are steel replacement valves for those aluminum ones, made by Sonnax and by Transgo.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The steel valve moved so much nicer then the alum. Burnt tranny up shortly after pulled again found low reverse leak case was pretty scored up swapped in a new low reverse Piston and seals for it. Also cleaned up groves in case with emery cloth. Still has marks but nothing to tear seal. Also I replaced pump as it was stalling in drive as well. The pump gears were shot as figured. Even had aluminum transfer on it. Truck runs great. Still worried about the case but the air. He j seams better now
 
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