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Former Ford Trans Engr.
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Discussion Starter #61
There isn't a shred of truth to what he said. It's the "common" wisdom, but it's wrong. New oil NEVER has harmed a transmission. If the trans is ready to die, new oil won't save it, but it will never harm it.

Depending on which transmission is in your truck you may or may not be able to use this procedure. If it's a diesel, then this won't work. All you can do is change what's in the pan. If it is a gas engine then this will work.
 

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Depending on which transmission is in your truck you may or may not be able to use this procedure. If it's a diesel, then this won't work. All you can do is change what's in the pan. If it is a gas engine then this will work.

Okay you just confused me with that... This procedure won't work with diesels? Sorry for my ignorance! I thought this was strictly a diesel forum (not being a smart ***).



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Mark,
Thanks for the reply. That's what I figured. I wish I could change out the filter but at least I can have newer oil in it.
 

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Former Ford Trans Engr.
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Discussion Starter #64
Okay you just confused me with that... This procedure won't work with diesels? Sorry for my ignorance! I thought this was strictly a diesel forum (not being a smart ***).
If you have a 2004 diesel it won't work. That is the 5R110 transmission. The procedure only works with the 4R100 and older transmissions. The 4R100 was in the 2004 gas engine trucks. I know this is a diesel only forum, but that doesn't stop some of the gas engine trucks from sneaking in here.

Mark,
Thanks for the reply. That's what I figured. I wish I could change out the filter but at least I can have newer oil in it.
You can change the filter.
 

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If you have a 2004 diesel it won't work. That is the 5R110 transmission. The procedure only works with the 4R100 and older transmissions. The 4R100 was in the 2004 gas engine trucks. I know this is a diesel only forum, but that doesn't stop some of the gas engine trucks from sneaking in here.


You can change the filter.

Okay so I have a 2003, can I do this? Sorry for the dumb questions. I have a lot to learn.


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Former Ford Trans Engr.
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Discussion Starter #67
If you have a 2003 diesel you might be able to, and you might not be able to. It depends.

What engine do you have? There were two diesels in 2003. The 7.3L was mated to the 4R100, and this procedure works fine on that transmission. The 6.0L was mated to the TorqShift, and this procedure WILL NOT work on that transmission.
 

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If you have a 2003 diesel you might be able to, and you might not be able to. It depends.

What engine do you have? There were two diesels in 2003. The 7.3L was mated to the 4R100, and this procedure works fine on that transmission. The 6.0L was mated to the TorqShift, and this procedure WILL NOT work on that transmission.

I have the 6.0L. Guess I won't be doing this lol. Thanks for the info!


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Yes, I recommend MERCON V for your E4OD transmission.
Mark I've been preparing to flush a '96 e40d and trying to resolve the mercon vs MercV issue but getting more confused in the process. Before reading this answer of yours I had finally called a Ford dealer and their guy said either would work for me but if it had mercon already to stay with that. If I was going to go merconV not to mix the two and that I would need a mechanical flush or multiple flushes to get all the mercon out. I'd rather use whatever is best which you're saying is the MercV. Will your procedure address this issue if it even is one? Because of the age, history and low mileage of the truck (94,000 when I bought it in 2014) I'm assuming it's got the old mercon.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
The old MERCON and the new MERCON V will mix. The old MERCON will work, but the MERCON V fluid is better.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Fluids that say they are for use in transmissions that used to require MERCON are still being produced.
 

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To Mark K.
Yes sir . I have heard that you are the 5r110 guru. I'm having an issue with the truck going into 5th and 6th gear.
1st 2nd and 3rd work fine. I Replaced the direct drive D solednoid and it still has the issue. I've been reading the threads about it. I'm just wondering if I need a new transmissin Or what. It was driving fine. For the last few weeks and now it's messing up. Btw I've only had the truck a few weeks and this happened to me. Your knowledge would greatly be appreciated..thanks in advance..
 

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I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.

1. Things you need to get started:

a. The transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 20 quarts of MERCON or MERCON V ATF. You may use either conventional or synthetic, as long as it meets the above requirements. Don't use MERCON SP, it is not good for these transmissions. MERCON has been discontinued by Ford and is getting a bit harder to find. MERCON V has been changed to be compatible with these transmissions.
b. A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler hose. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying!
c. If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.
2. WARM UP THE TRANSMISSION!
3. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler. This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission. This is where the old ATF from the torque convertor and coolers will come out.
4. This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.
a. Run the engine until you see some air in the clear tubing. As soon as you see air shut off the engine.
b. While the engine is running in step 4a above, move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.
c. Refill through the dipstick tube with 6 quarts of new ATF.
5. Repeat steps 4a and 4c until you have added 19 quarts. When you add the 19th quart, stop. Don't run the engine again.
6. Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission.
7. Check the fluid level and use the last quart of ATF to top off.
8. Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.
9. Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.

Now that we understand the basic procedure, let's muddy the water with the options:

Optional: Change the tranny filter.

2. After stopping the engine and before adding fluid, remove the pan, replace the tranny filter, and install the pan. Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable.

I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter. I've opened filters with over 300,000 miles that were not even close to being clogged.

It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter.

Optional: Drain the torque convertor. Add the following to paragraph 2 above:

If your truck was built before August, 2001, then you may have a drain plug in the torque convertor. If you do, then you can also drain the torque convertor as part of step 2 above. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001, you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter.
To drain the torque converter remove the shield (but NOT the upper right bolt - this one only needs to be loosened) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you drain the torque convertor, be sure to replace the drain plug before you continue.
If you drain the torque convertor, then the old ATF won't come out of the end of the cooler line until the torque convertor is filled with ATF. So instead of waiting until you see air bubbles in the drain line in step 5a, run the engine for about 30 seconds while changing gears for step 4b, then cut off the engine.

Optional: Blow out the coolers. Add the following to step 3 above.

It's not necessary, but some folks want to get every possible drop of the old ATF out of the system before they add new ATF. If you drained the torque convertor, then you might also want to blow the ATF out of the coolers and cooler lines. If you have an air compressor, you can reduce the pressure to about 15 PSI, remove the cooler "hot" line from the front of the tranny, and blow air into that line. That will force the ATF in the coolers and lines out the cooler return line at the back of the tranny. DO NOT use air pressure of more than about 15 PSI! Then be sure to reconnect that line before you continue with paragraph 4.
Mark i have started the flush procedure and the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission will not stop leaking fluid at 1st thought i had overfilled i dropped pan then fill back up with 6.5 quarts disconnected the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission and it has dripped 4 quarts back out is the bypass valve assembly bad and allowing cooler fluid to drain as well ?
Thanks Mike
 

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Former Ford Trans Engr.
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Discussion Starter #75
The bypass needs to be rebuilt. Summit Racing has a rebuild kit for about $25. It's easy to install.
 
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