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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll start of by telling you what I want out of the build and my truck, my goal is 450-500hp truck. If possible I would like it to be as clean burning as possible, I know it's not gonna run like a 6.7 though. I don't tow a lot, the truck is my DD and I'll be driving down to south Ga a lot because Ill be going to ABAC in the fall.

The truck currently has rosewood stage 2 split shot injectors, hydra chip, 4in exhaust, cold air intake, gauges, and the tranny has been rebuilt.

I've got a couple grand for my next upgrades. I know I'm going to need a turbo I'm stuck between the 38r or a T4 style setup.

I know the split shots might not get me where I want to be so I am thinking of going bigger with those as well but I'm not 100% on that yet.

My next step is where I get a little lost. I need this to be a very reliable truck for the next couple years so I don't need all these high hp mods wearing out my engine in a hurry. So what I was thinking is head studs, main studs, fire ring kit, valve springs, push rods, and maybe connection rods but I don't think I need those because I think my truck is the year that has the forged rods. Like I said I don't know too much about this aspect of it so I'm very open to suggestions and opinions.

Finally I do have a buddy that's got a blown up 6.0 that I can get parts off of. I've read that 6.0 inter coolers and transmission coolers are useful on the 7.3.

And finally what transmission upgrades are necessary for this kind of power. Torque converter, valve body, and shift kit Is what I was thinking.

I've been a cummins owner until I got my current truck so all I've said is stuff ive researched recently so tell me if I am off in any kind of way. Thank you!
 

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the stryker god
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Pis 200/80s, the modded h2e I have for sale, regulated return, hutch mod. Need to monitor icp and DC to see if you need an upgraded hpop, need to monitor fuel psi to see if you need an upgraded or additional fuel pump. Studs, valve springs and pushrods. No need for main studs or billet rods. Bts vb and a decent tc for the tranny
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How would I monitor those two to determine the HPOP? And what kind of HPOP would be ideal for this setup? What's the best torque converter for this set up as well, keeping in mind that longevity is very important? What's the opinion on tuning this much power to run clean with minimal smoke.
 

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the stryker god
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To monitor ICP you'll need a scanner but the cheapest is a Bluetooth obd2 reader and the torque app. Fuel pressure you'll need a fuel pressure gauge. Best tc is a pi stallion. Hope fully a stock 17 degree hpop would do fine but if not an adrenaline, honey badger Jr or t500 would all work. As for tuning you just got to find the nearest and get live tuned
 

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The 38r will be at its limits and swapping to a T4 mount will give you room to grow in the future. No need to fire ring the heads at the level you are looking at. Swap those split shots out for singles.
 

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the stryker god
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38r is a fine turbo, but its loud, its not rebuildable and it allows no room for growth. The h2e kit I have for sale comes with all the stuff to make it fit, up pipes, mount, Ic tubes, oil lines etc. If you factor in a set of bellowed up pipes, high flow outlet and non ebpv pedestal then the h2e is cheaper.
 

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Good deal and best turbo for your goals is Bruce's kit. get single shot Stage 2's with 100% nozzles and you will make your goals..
You will need fuel, studs and VS's.
 

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Clay at riff raff is where i got most of my stuff and couldnt be happier. Clay is the man.
 

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Bruce what turbo setup are you running now?
 
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