Ford Power Stroke Nation banner

41 - 54 of 54 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Hey everyone,

So I recently purchased a 2006 F350 6.0 with approximately 154K. I am new to diesels and only know what I have read or from youtube videos so yeah... First day the degas tank cracked and leaked coolant all over my driveway. Purchased a new aluminum Mishimoto tank. Figured I'd also change the radiator hoses to Mishimoto while I was at it and install their coolant filter. While I was doing that I replaced the coolant temp sensor and the intake manifold air temp sensor. Also did the blue spring upgrade. Then flushed the coolant (kinda nasty looking) and put in new 50/50 using Ford Gold and Distilled Water. Put everything back together and the truck seemed to run good.


My issues:
  • AC is not working so not sure what's causing that.
  • took truck on two hour drive relying on only dash temp indicators. Ran good, no apparent issues, no smoke, etc. Just a hot drive w/out AC.
  • after that drive I noticed coolant all over new reservoir. Level was high, above Full for some reason
  • hooked up a bluetooth monitor to OBDII port. Watched temps the next two days during drives around town. EOT was high (220-240's). ECT around 195-200
  • reservoir continued to sizzle and leak and fluctuated in fill level enough to make me crazy. Tested coolant using a tester from AutoZone to make sure I had good mix of coolant vs distilled water.
  • Had to drive home 2 hours so left early in the AM to avoid afternoon Florida heat. EOT climbed to 250 so I pulled off and let it cool down before continuing. Kept speed at 60-65 the rest of the way which kept temp around 245.
  • Next two days took two short drives (2 miles each). Fluctuations in coolant continued. Some mornings when cold coolant level showed above full. Other mornings the indicator had no coolant but looking down into tank there was still some coolant. Of course I added/drained as I felt appropriate. Re-tested to confirm correct concentration.
At this point I know that I have an oil cooler issue and need that serviced or more than likely just replaced all together.

So that brings me to this... I hope I didn't hurt my truck! Yesterday I drove the truck to the gas station to fill up prior to taking it to a shop (it was very low on fuel). The gas station is only 2 miles from the house if that. The truck was running for maybe 20 minutes which from my experience doesn't get it that hot with respect to the oil temps. Got home, parked off the side of the road and checked under the hood as I have become accustom to. The radiator cap had coolant around it again and the level was not even visible. Radiator hoses were very hard... I removed the cap to relieve any gases that were in there and mowed my lawn. About an hour or so later I went to move it back in front of my house. Turned the key, waited a few seconds, she cranks a few times, goes to start but then instantly makes a noise and stops. I would describe the noise as maybe that sound you hear when trying to start a car that's already running... Or maybe it's just the sound of a diesel engine coming to a screeching halt? Tried to start it again and the same thing happened...cranks a few times, goes to start but then quick screech and off.

What could this be? This is the first time the truck has refused to start up. It has been sounding fine, running fine as far as sight and sound goes (no smoke, no knocking, etc) but obviously it does have something going on with the coolant level (maybe an air pocket) and also has the issue with the oil cooler.

I'm currently at a loss and don't know where to go from here. I'm probably just going to have it towed to a local shop but thought I'd see if anyone on here has run into something like this.

Please Help!!!

Also in case anyone on here is local to the Sarasota, FL area, I'm considering two shops. White's Diesel in Nokomis, FL and also Holder's Diesel in Sarasota/Bradenton. If you know either of these please respond with your experiences.

Thank you all!
Sounds like you could have a blown head gasket or craccked cylinder heads, the loss of coolant could have made it into your cylinders causing it to hydro lock which would explain the trying to start and have it come to a screeching hault
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Sounds like you could have a blown head gasket or craccked cylinder heads, the loss of coolant could have made it into your cylinders causing it to hydro lock which would explain the trying to start and have it come to a screeching hault
What I was told by a couple of local diesel shops is that it wouldn't have cranked at all if it were hydro locked. The first day I tried it cranked a few times before making that car already started grinding noise. The next day when I tried to start it I only got maybe one crank and then the grinding noise. I'm hopeful that it's the starter and not something more serious. I had ordered a 6.0 starter but changed my mind and got the 6.4 starter instead. I will be installing that hopefully tomorrow depending on the weather and will see what happens.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,471 Posts
Let's see what happens with the new starter and then we'll go from there. One thing at a time is best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
Let's see what happens with the new starter and then we'll go from there. One thing at a time is best.
I just got my starter which I ordered from Amazon. The part on Amazon said SA931 which I believe is a 6.0 starter but what looks to be a newer version for the 6.0 because it looks like a 6.4 starter.
202118


But...the starter I received says this number on the side "7C2T 11000 BC" I'm having trouble verifying that it's actually for a 6.0 or even a 6.4 for that matter but it definitely looks like it is. Has anyone ever seen this model number on one of their starters?

Label from box:
202115

Label on starter:
202116


This one I ordered before I decided to do the 6.4 starter upgrade. My question is do I need to send this one back and get the 6.4 or do you think this will perform like the 6.4 starter since it looks to have a newer design than the traditional 6.0 starter? I guess I could just install it and find out... :unsure:
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
I just got my starter which I ordered from Amazon. The part on Amazon said SA931 which I believe is a 6.0 starter but what looks to be a newer version for the 6.0 because it looks like a 6.4 starter.
View attachment 202118

But...the starter I received says this number on the side "7C2T 11000 BC" I'm having trouble verifying that it's actually for a 6.0 or even a 6.4 for that matter but it definitely looks like it is. Has anyone ever seen this model number on one of their starters?

Label from box:
View attachment 202115
Label on starter:
View attachment 202116

This one I ordered before I decided to do the 6.4 starter upgrade. My question is do I need to send this one back and get the 6.4 or do you think this will perform like the 6.4 starter since it looks to have a newer design than the traditional 6.0 starter? I guess I could just install it and find out... :unsure:
Pretty sure the new 6.0 starters are actually 6.4 starters. I've heard that, but haven't experienced it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
Well I got the new starter in. Here is a video of the old starter trying to start the truck.
Old Starter Video

New Starter Video

So as you can see that was it! Started up...

However, I did find some other issues down below. First, the hardest bolt to get at was not even there on the existing starter. They had it installed with just the two easy to get to bolts. So I'll have to figure out what bolt to get to replace it.
Second...there was a lot of oil down there all over the starter and all over basically everything. Here are some pictures and a short video.
IMG_20200722_182552.jpg Screenshot_20200722-210155.png Screenshot_20200722-210522.png Screenshot_20200722-205740.png IMG_20200722_203953.jpg IMG_20200722_182659.jpg

Oil Everywhere Video

Third...missing inspection plate!??
IMG_20200722_182631 (1).jpg

So step one down...get the truck to start again.

I'm guessing all that oil leaking means I do have a head gasket failure or even worse a cracked block?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,752 Posts
Probably glowplug harnesses.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
Probably glowplug harnesses.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
For the oil leak? I did notice that all of the oil is coming from the back of the engine and read that no matter where the oil is leaking from it will follow the valley back to the rear and then leak down from there.

Did you see the picture where it looks like I'm missing the inspection plate? Is that what I'm seeing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,752 Posts
Far as the inspection plate, I don't know. The glow plug harnesses will throw oil everywhere though.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,471 Posts
Oil is coming from either the glowplug harness or from up in the valley....or both. I hate to say this, but it's a diesel, so it's going to leak some oil. I have fought and fought and fought with mine and I STILL have leaks. I finally just gave up trying to fix em all and now I just keep an eye on the oil level. lol

As for that starter, I do believe you have the good one.

Inspection PLUG is what you're missing. It's a little rubber grommet. Good to have to keep crud out, but not 100% necessary. If you can find one, awesome.

Also, just as an FYI, a head gasket failure on one of these is nothing like it is on a gas engine. These generally fail between the water jackets and the combustion chamber, so you get excess pressure in the cooling system usually....occasionally you get coolant in the chambers from this, but not often. Generally when you have coolant in the cylinder it's from a bad EGR cooler.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
Also, just as an FYI, a head gasket failure on one of these is nothing like it is on a gas engine. These generally fail between the water jackets and the combustion chamber, so you get excess pressure in the cooling system usually....occasionally you get coolant in the chambers from this, but not often. Generally when you have coolant in the cylinder it's from a bad EGR cooler.
OK, I did buy the stuff I need to be able to do the cooling system pressure test and monitor the PSI while driving. Then if I do see issues the question will be is it from head gasket failure or is it from a bad EGR delete. That sound about right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
The bolt that is missing on the starter is the same as the smaller (upper) bolt, just get one at a hardware store. You should have it in there.
If you do the oil cooler yourself, the egr cooler has to come out, so that would be the time to replace or inspect it. Also, closely inspect the CAC boots for cracks/failures, or better yet replace them. If the cold side plastic pipe is still there, get a metal one. The plastic pipes crack and you'll loose boost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,471 Posts
OK, I did buy the stuff I need to be able to do the cooling system pressure test and monitor the PSI while driving. Then if I do see issues the question will be is it from head gasket failure or is it from a bad EGR delete. That sound about right?
Sort of yes? lol Yes, if you see excess pressure in the cooling system, you have a problem with either the head gaskets or the EGR cooler. However, generally if there are EGR cooler issues the signs in the cooling system will be different than what you see if you have HG issues. Since you have a welded EGR delete, if you have any problems with the welds, I would imagine they would be miniscule pin holes, which likely wouldn't contribute much pressure...but I suppose it's possible. In other words, if you monitor pressure and it goes up to 16PSI and you then bleed off pressure to check and it keeps repeating fairly quickly, I would consider that a HG issue for certain because you have that weld delete since I just can't see a poor weld job and cracked cooler making the pressure increase quickly.

And yeah, if you're going to do the oil cooler, that is definitely the time to inspect that EGR cooler. Personally, I would delete it completely if your state/local laws will allow it. If they won't, make darn sure those welds are good.
 
41 - 54 of 54 Posts
Top