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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

So I recently purchased a 2006 F350 6.0 with approximately 154K. I am new to diesels and only know what I have read or from youtube videos so yeah... First day the degas tank cracked and leaked coolant all over my driveway. Purchased a new aluminum Mishimoto tank. Figured I'd also change the radiator hoses to Mishimoto while I was at it and install their coolant filter. While I was doing that I replaced the coolant temp sensor and the intake manifold air temp sensor. Also did the blue spring upgrade. Then flushed the coolant (kinda nasty looking) and put in new 50/50 using Ford Gold and Distilled Water. Put everything back together and the truck seemed to run good.


My issues:
  • AC is not working so not sure what's causing that.
  • took truck on two hour drive relying on only dash temp indicators. Ran good, no apparent issues, no smoke, etc. Just a hot drive w/out AC.
  • after that drive I noticed coolant all over new reservoir. Level was high, above Full for some reason
  • hooked up a bluetooth monitor to OBDII port. Watched temps the next two days during drives around town. EOT was high (220-240's). ECT around 195-200
  • reservoir continued to sizzle and leak and fluctuated in fill level enough to make me crazy. Tested coolant using a tester from AutoZone to make sure I had good mix of coolant vs distilled water.
  • Had to drive home 2 hours so left early in the AM to avoid afternoon Florida heat. EOT climbed to 250 so I pulled off and let it cool down before continuing. Kept speed at 60-65 the rest of the way which kept temp around 245.
  • Next two days took two short drives (2 miles each). Fluctuations in coolant continued. Some mornings when cold coolant level showed above full. Other mornings the indicator had no coolant but looking down into tank there was still some coolant. Of course I added/drained as I felt appropriate. Re-tested to confirm correct concentration.
At this point I know that I have an oil cooler issue and need that serviced or more than likely just replaced all together.

So that brings me to this... I hope I didn't hurt my truck! Yesterday I drove the truck to the gas station to fill up prior to taking it to a shop (it was very low on fuel). The gas station is only 2 miles from the house if that. The truck was running for maybe 20 minutes which from my experience doesn't get it that hot with respect to the oil temps. Got home, parked off the side of the road and checked under the hood as I have become accustom to. The radiator cap had coolant around it again and the level was not even visible. Radiator hoses were very hard... I removed the cap to relieve any gases that were in there and mowed my lawn. About an hour or so later I went to move it back in front of my house. Turned the key, waited a few seconds, she cranks a few times, goes to start but then instantly makes a noise and stops. I would describe the noise as maybe that sound you hear when trying to start a car that's already running... Or maybe it's just the sound of a diesel engine coming to a screeching halt? Tried to start it again and the same thing happened...cranks a few times, goes to start but then quick screech and off.

What could this be? This is the first time the truck has refused to start up. It has been sounding fine, running fine as far as sight and sound goes (no smoke, no knocking, etc) but obviously it does have something going on with the coolant level (maybe an air pocket) and also has the issue with the oil cooler.

I'm currently at a loss and don't know where to go from here. I'm probably just going to have it towed to a local shop but thought I'd see if anyone on here has run into something like this.

Please Help!!!

Also in case anyone on here is local to the Sarasota, FL area, I'm considering two shops. White's Diesel in Nokomis, FL and also Holder's Diesel in Sarasota/Bradenton. If you know either of these please respond with your experiences.

Thank you all!
 

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Sounds exactly like my experience buying a 2007 two years ago.

In my case, I replaced the cap as the bottle wasn't cracked.

For me, it ended up being a bad oil cooler. Since Ford in all their infinite wisdom put it in the valley of the engine where the easiest way to get at it is to remove the cab, I just had them do the full bulletproofing while they were at it.

$6700 out of pocket.

I'm in Georgia so can't recommend anyone in Florida.

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Discussion Starter #3
My truck already is studded and egr deleted. Did yours also have issues starting like mine? First time I had issues starting it up and didn't really sound good. Cranked like normal but then seemed to start only to instantly die with maybe a squeaking or some other kind of sound. ??
 

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I hear holders is okay. Also look up jh diesel.
Just because it's studded and deleted doesn't mean it can't blow the head gaskets.
You should pressurize the cooling system just to see.
Your oil cooler is plugged as well. If it were me, I would do the remote mount cooler. Expensive, but worth it.
I don't know that I've seen the mishimoto filter, but at a minimum I would run the ipr research inline filter.

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It also sounds like you have a bad head gasket too. That much pressure in your cooling system has to come from somewhere.
 

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It is possible to damage it alot worse by continuing to crank on it. I cant say you did or not, but its a possibility. What kind of egr delete is it? Ive heard some of the aftermarket ones can fail, on the other hand it could be a blown head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It is possible to damage it alot worse by continuing to crank on it. I cant say you did or not, but its a possibility. What kind of egr delete is it? Ive heard some of the aftermarket ones can fail, on the other hand it could be a blown head gasket.
Not sure who made the egr delete...


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Discussion Starter #12
So yesterday it was cranking for a few times and then kind of a quick grind and stop. Today almost 24 hrs later I tried to start it again and it tries to crank once and grinds almost immediately to a stop. I was told by a local shop to try and start it today as it could have been a warm start issue and to also unplug the ICP sensor and try again if it doesn't start the first time. They said if it was hydrolocked it wouldn't have cranked like it did yesterday the 3 times I tried starting it.

Given what it's doing today and how quickly it's giving/grinding and quitting (after maybe 1 crank) I'm starting to think that maybe I just have a bad starter on top of all of the other things that seem to be going wrong. Maybe that's why this sound was so familiar to me as I first described in this thread ("I would describe the noise as maybe that sound you hear when trying to start a car that's already running...")

What do you guys think?
 

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Is that a tall oil filter cap (stock is only 1 inch above the housing, the aftermarket ones are taller)?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Is that a tall oil filter cap (stock is only 1 inch above the housing, the aftermarket ones are taller)?
I honestly have no idea if that one is stock or not but just now looking it up online it does seem to be aftermarket. I've been reading about how important it is to use oem motorcraft filters so definitely will be changing that. I just got the truck and have not changed the oil. Wouldn't it be nice...if it's even possible...that a non stock oil filter was causing my issues and I could fix it by switching back to oem. Lol...I doubt that would cause my high oil temp issue though. I've read that they can get crap in the system and mess with the IPR valve.
 

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Do NOT use an OEM filter with an aftermarket (tall) cap. You will reduce oil flow to the lubrication path and to the HPOP.

If it is a tall cap (I gave you the OEM cap height), then get rid of it and get an OEM cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Do NOT use an OEM filter with an aftermarket (tall) cap. You will reduce oil flow to the lubrication path and to the HPOP.

If it is a tall cap (I gave you the OEM cap height), then get rid of it and get an OEM cap.
Yes that would be the plan. Thanks. Is there also an aftermarket cap for the fuel filter?
 

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I have never heard of the aftermarket selling a specific aftermarket fuel filter "combo kit".

BTW - there are two fuel filters and the primary fuel filter (part of the HFCM on the driver's frame rail) uses the same cap as the OEM oil filter. The OEM fuel filters have a water removal system and an air bleed system, so it is important to use OEM fuel filters also.
 

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Hey, uh, get rid of that Ford gold coolant. Use an elc, like Cat or Rotella.
If you can afford it, do the remote mounted filter from BPD and the IPR full flow coolant filter.
There is NO reason whatsoever to take the cab off to do the oil cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hey, uh, get rid of that Ford gold coolant. Use an elc, like Cat or Rotella.
If you can afford it, do the remote mounted filter from BPD and the IPR full flow coolant filter.
There is NO reason whatsoever to take the cab off to do the oil cooler.
Yeah another shop told me the same thing yesterday. Unfortunately you see a ton of videos online saying "USE ONLY FORD GOLD COOLANT!!!" so it's pretty confusing. And then there are other things for these trucks where they also say Motorcraft only Motorcraft only! Lol

The issue with my truck is that they're saying the pressure in my cooling system is high which means it probably has a head gasket issue, so then they're going to have to take the cab off and replace that anyway so might as well do the cooler while in there right? If I don't have a blown head gasket you are saying I can save the money on the labor and just bypass it with the external cooler?

So the IPR is better than other coolant filters like the Mishimoto ones?

What coolant and motor oil does everyone use??
 
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