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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2004 6.0 thats a no Crank no Start . First what was intially wrong was a crank no start after new oil cooler, injector harness , new ICP and IPR. Along with a new Y -Pipe . Once that work was done and I got it all back together all injectors were buzzing unlike before the new harness but it would not start. Scabguage 2 was reading a buildup of only 480 max PSI ICP pressure with a max of 77 on IPR. I checked to make sure it was getting oil into the filter housing and it was. I took out the IPR and ran shop air in and it held so no leaks. I then ran wires from the battery to the IPR and it cranked for the first time since the procedure. Here is where I really screwed up. When I put the pigtail back on the IPR I think I got the wires crossed.Well actually know I did and once I put them right I now have a no crank. No injector buzz when the switch goes on to run. Glow plug light stays on alot longer than normal and when you try to crank its like it kills the power to everything. So I turned the switch off and checked it under the hood to see if it would crank at least by arching it t the battery and it does. Now Im lost on what to do next.I checked the relay under the hood but it doesnt look burnt. ???????
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Wiring the IPR backwards isn't the issue, it'll work that way. You have other problems.

Originally, it may have only been that you needed to crank more to purge the air out of the system.

Now, start by checking fuse #22 in the Central Junction Box (under the dash on the drivers side).

You said you checked the relay under the hood ....... what relay was that (number and description)? FICM relay possibly - #C1235? How did you check it? Did you check fuse #1 under the hood? It is the FICM fuse. The FICM may be an issue, but it isn't the no-crank issue.

No-Crank and No-Start, Check (under dash):
Fuse 22 (20A Engine Controls)
Fuse 27 (15A ignition switch run feed)
Fuse 31 (15A starter relay fuse, for 03 and 04 it is the clutch interlock switch/transmission range sensor)
Fuse 45 (10A Ignition ON switch - run/start feed)
Fuse 110 (30A ignition switch)
Fuse 113 (30A starter) - this fuse can blow if the starter is bad
Fuse 116 (30A ignition switch)
Relay 302 (PCM)
Relay 307 (Starter), Also check the stater relay pins listed below:
- Pin 30 for 12v power (at all times) and pin 85 (switched power).
- If pin 30 doesn't have power, then fuse F2.113 is blown
- If pin 85 doesn't have switched power, then fuse F2.31 is blown
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks man, it was the first fuse you said #22 blown . I am now back to a crank no start. It will start almost immediately with the IPR ran to the battery , commanding it fully closed. I just dont understand why the scanguage 2 isnt picking up what the IPR is really doing. The reason I say this is that it was only reading 77 but then I unplugged it completely and it still registered 77. Maybe that was desired or something I dont know.What should I do from this point forward. Also thanks again for getting me back on track in a very short time.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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There is no feedback from the IPR. The duty cycle is only a commanded value - no way to know for sure what it is doing.
 
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"resident smarty pants"
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If you keep 12V power on the IPR too long, you will burn up the electronics. After doing work on the high pressure oil system, you want to crank normally (ie do NOT command the IPR manually).
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Yes sir, I cranked on it for days thinking it might have had air in it.Which it probably did. But I change the oil today, it had been setting for a while and was needing changed anyway. Turned it over and it craked about 5 seconds and fired off and seems to be running well. Although the check engine light is on. I didnt get a chance to check it yet . I want to thank you again for all your help and the quick responses. I really appreciate it. Unless its just needing codes cleared Ill post back and let you know why the check engine light is going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I guess I spoke too soon. Drove it over to a buddys today to pick up a code reader and after about 20 minutes of driving it just quit all of the sudden like you had turned the key off and wouldnt start back. After about 15 or 20 minutes of cooling off it started and ran for not even a mile and quit again. Didnt start back that time. I unplugged the ICP to see if it might start but no.Im stumped. The Y pipe that I ordered came with no heat shields could this be overheating the IPR or something?
 

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Double check that the connections to the FICM are snapped tight. Those might seem like they're on, but not be snapped in all the way (mainly the front one).
If that isn't the case, Pull the Ipr back out, check the screen and seals. Then make sure the inside is cleaned out and not jamming open. Sometimes, after doing the work you did, debris get into the system and takes the ipr screen out and jams the ipr open.
Another pressure test would be appropriate as well, since you're in there.


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Discussion Starter #9
The truck isnt home now so I wasnt able to run another pressure test. But it did fire off and idled for 15 to 20 minutes. I ran the RPM up to around 4K and it shut off intantly but not before I was able to set these codes.Not sure if any of them could be my problem because after the truck is allowed to cool overnight its starts great and sounds good. I did take the IPR out and checked the screen, it was fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
codes
P2138
P2139
P2122
P121
P2285
P3922
P3821
Is it possible that the HPOP is weak or is it a case of when theyre bad theyre bad and the truck wouldnt start any time ?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Anyof these codes cause a no start hot
P2138
P2139
P2122
P121
P2285
P3922
P3821
Is it possible that the HPOP is weak or is it a case of when theyre bad theyre bad and the truck wouldnt start any time ?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Double check that the connections to the FICM are snapped tight. Those might seem like they're on, but not be snapped in all the way (mainly the front one).
If that isn't the case, Pull the Ipr back out, check the screen and seals. Then make sure the inside is cleaned out and not jamming open. Sometimes, after doing the work you did, debris get into the system and takes the ipr screen out and jams the ipr open.
Another pressure test would be appropriate as well, since you're in there.


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Ok, I checked all that and all is well. Any other ideas ?
 

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Looks like you have a bad accelerator pedal or the wiring to the pedal has a short in it.

I don't believe that P3821 and P3922 are valid codes for your engine.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Looks like you have a bad accelerator pedal or the wiring to the pedal has a short in it.

I don't believe that P3821 and P3922 are valid codes for your engine.
Yeah I couldnt find those codes for a long time, but I finally ran across one site that said the 3922 codes was Glow Plug or Injector Malfunction and that the 3821 code was a circuit A MAP BPC High . I dont know man Im at a loss of what to try next. I really hate to tear it all back apart, pay out for a HPOP and that not be it. Would the Acc Pedal cause it to just die though and not start back till it cools down. I was also wondering if that new pipe with no heat shield could cause the IPR or FICM to overheat. From what I have posted above , if it were your truck what would your next step be. I really need it going before winter but cant afford to take it in to a shop
 

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An accelerator pedal wiring short can make it shut down unexpectedly when driving. Inspect that closely and if wiring looks good, I would consider replacing the pedal. The thing is, the main wiring harness has known rubbing and chafing issues down there around the pedal.

I have a bunch of Ford lists for 6.0L diesel codes and the P3821 and P3922 aren't on them. I'll do a little more looking though. If you have a valid injector code, then that will need to be addressed.

Did you install an OEM IPR valve?
Same question with the ICP sensor?

An IPR solenoid electrical short can also make it shutdown completely.

Disconnect your EBP sensor for now, Your 03 doesn't need it and if it has a short, it could be an issue.

When it won't start is when you need to take data. You need to post the following cranking data - WHEN IT WON'T START:
Cranking rpm
FICM MPower
FICM LPower
FICM VPower
Fuel Pulse Width
Cam/Crank sync
FICM sync
ICP sensor voltage
ICP pressure, psi
IPR % duty cycle (Commanded)

Lastly, you may have to do another air test through the IPR valve port.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for trying to help me out on this. Im hoping to have it going before winter sets in. Its over at my inlaws so it may be a day or so before I can get you all that information.Easier to have it towed there than all way back home.
Ill list what info I have right now and get the rest asap. I was over there today and let it idle.Fired right up first try and idled for like 10 to 20 minutes at various RPMs then didnt suddenly like you had kill the switch.

I did not install an OEM IPR , but it now has the original IPR back in it. I think I burned the first one up back when I forced it to start from the battery cause it will not start the truck at any time now. Maybe the original IPR is getting weak or overheated ?

1st crank of the day ICP shoots up and cranks instanly at about 700 to 900 psi and IPR about 30 - 40

Once it has died on restart
ICP- only goes to about 200 to 250 maybe 400 on a very long crank
IPR - never builds above 77
Cam/Crank FICM SYNC - YES I think on my scanguage2 Can/Crank and Ficm Sync is all on the same code right ?

Ill get the others asap . I just dont know if I can do all of them with the Scanguage 2 . I know I have it programmed to read
RPM so I can get that no problem.How do I get it to read


FICM MPower
FICM LPower
FICM VPower
Fuel Pulse Width

ICP sensor voltage
IPR % duty cycle (Commanded)



Also I wanted to let you know I replaced the pedal last year for thos same codes. But it was an Ebay pedal so , I guess it could be a cheaper pedal, wiring or I also wonder if those codes are just stored in the PCM and not being erased from memory properly.
 

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I would suspect wiring before the pedal.

Yes, Scangauge will retrieve everything I asked for.

No FICM sync is not the same as cam/crank sync.

I'll post the scangauge programming for the PIDs you don;t know how to get.

I am not a fan of aftermarket electronics (especially accelerator pedals, ICP sensors, and IPR actuators). They have a high failure rate and it complicates troubleshooting. And yes, you can burn up the electronics in the IPR valve actuator. One thing you can do is to pull it to verify it is working, but since it starts when cold, I would guess that it is. That said, occasionally an IPR valve will work cold, but not work when hot.
 
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Camshaft & Crankshaft in sync (1 = in sync, 0 = not in sync) (Alternate)​
TXD: 07E02209CD​
RXF: 0462050906CD​
RXD: 3701​
MTH: 000100010000​
NAM: SYC​

FICM SYNC​
TXD: 07E02209CD​
RXF: 0462050906CD​
RXD: 3601​
MTH: 000100010000​
NAM: FSN (0=no or 1=yes)​

FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-48) (this does work! )
TXD: 07E02209D0
RXF: 0462450906D0
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FMP

FICM Logic Power (Volts) (Should be 12 volts) good
TXD: 07E02209CF
RXF: 0462450906CF
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FLP

FICM Vehicle Power (Volts) (Should be 12 Volts) good
TXD: 07E02209CE
RXF: 0462450906CE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FVP
 
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Fuel Injector Pulse Width (microseconds) or Fuel Pulse Width​
TXD: 07E0221410​
RXF: 046205140610​
RXD: 3010​
MTH: 000800010000​
NAM: FPW​

ICP Voltage (Volts)​
TXD: 07E02216AD​
RXF: 0462451606AD​
RXD: 3010​
MTH: 004827100000​
NAM: ICPV​

And this is a good one for reference voltage:

VREF probably the one below is good and not this one​
TXD: 07E0221155​
RXF: 046245110655​
RXD: 3010​
MTH: 006433330000​
NAM: CVI​
 
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