Ford Power Stroke Nation banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
04 F350 SRW 150XXX with the IDP street tune and MBRP 5" w/ muffler and no cat. Truck was running fine then out of no where it started idling a little rough and just pours white smoke out of the exhaust. It had some codes pulled with the SCT which were low boost and all 8 injector circuit low. I cleared them and they haven't come back but the truck still runs really rich. I can drive it and it still makes power, but its lagging. Both Battery voltage it 13.2 with the engine hot and all accessories on at 95* in the sun. The day it happened i did a data log i can post. The FICM voltage dropped in the 30's getting in to the gas on the highway, but its 45-46 with the engine cold. It still makes 25lbs of boost as well. I checked the turbo silicone couplers and pipe for leaks but it looks fine after taking it off and cleaning them. Got any ideas or things to check or do yall think its the FICM?

Datalogs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
did a bubble test today and it failed. looks like some new injectors are in my future.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,442 Posts
Is it still pouring white smoke out the exhaust? If so, does it smell like diesel? If it smells like coolant, you've got a different problem, which could be a couple of things depending on your equipment. However, it kinda makes sense that it could be diesel based on your injector find.

So, if it does indeed smell like diesel, and it's still doing it, STOP driving it. Your bubble test tells us that your crush washers (at least one of them) has failed, and after a while that hot exhaust will degrade the lower o-ring on the injector which will allow fuel to flow directly into the cylinder at all times. This is why it comes out as white smoke, because it's not being burnt. If the leak is bad enough, you could potentially fill the cylinder with fuel and create a hydrolock with the potential to damage rods and pistons. Get 8 new injector o-ring kits (I'd get the Alliant AP0002 kit with the top o-ring which seals against the oil rail), clean out the injector cups really well (especially any which were exposed to exhaust gasses), make sure the injector hold-down screw threads are clear of oil, and be sure to torque them down to spec. That last bit, torquing them to spec, is the biggest key to making sure your copper washer stays intact. The second is making sure the hole is free of oil. With oil in it, you can't get a proper torque reading.

In addition to the above, I would double check your FICM voltage. Watch battery voltage, FICM vehicle voltage, FICM logic board voltage, and FICM main voltage. You should see three which are all really close to each other (battery voltage essentially) and one which should be really close to 48. If any of those are not where they should be, you've also got some digging to do. Generally, it's the main voltage which we worry about...the 48. It should never go below 45 volts, even while cranking over the engine and even when the glow plugs turn on....this is, of course, assuming your batteries and charging system are putting out what they need to be. If your truck's charging system can't keep up, you can kill the FICM. If, however, your charging system is good and your batteries are good (which it looks like they may be based on your voltage with all those accessories on) and your FICM still drops below 45, it's only a matter of time before it dies, and when it dies it can take out injectors. Your best bet is to get it repaired by Ed at ficmrepair.com, and get the upgraded version with better parts so it won't fail again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
After it was running so rich I assumed it was due to the combustion gasses getting in the fuel system some how. I think I might replace and flash the FICM anyways. I just got some 155/30 warren injectors on the way. Gonna have some fun this weekend
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top