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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys have been looking for the part number for the inner seals for my Ex. Tried to find them through spicer and got 52148 but some sites are telling me that’s not right. I would just like a general consensus on the proper part number through spicer. I think the ford part number is ‘2C3Z3254AA’. I was told/read that the spicer version is upgraded to seal better.



Thanks


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Here is the one they try to sell you at all the parts stores, this is known as the "two piece" seal. personally I DO NOT like this design. They did not last in my 97 truck and are difficult to install.
With this style the seal actually rotates, one piece sticks to the axle shaft the other stays tight to the housing. Lots of things can go wrong here.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1146651&cc=1414921&jsn=511


Another two piece:
https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-YMSS1018-Replacement-Straight-Differential/dp/B0078UBVKS/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=dana+60+axle+shaft+seal&qid=1558274392&s=gateway&sr=8-8



This is the style I prefer for the dana 50 or Dana 60, this was OEM on the old trucks

https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-YMS470682-Inner-Replacement-Differential/dp/B0078UBIKQ/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=dana+60+axle+shaft+seal&qid=1558274259&s=gateway&sr=8-2



FYI the dana 50 and 60 use the same inner axle seals.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Awesome, I see other people agree with that statement. I’ll get the single piece ones ordered.

I’m also reading that the seal don’t have a stop in the housing. How do you install them? Do you use the special tool or did you create something?


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I used a seal driver kit from harbor freight and a length of pipe if I remember correctly. Driving the seals in was not difficult. Also anaerobic sealant on the outside of the seal to help fill any imperfections in my diff housing. The axle shafts themselves should be very clean and I lube them with some vaseline before they pass through the new seal.
No special tools needed that I remember, the seal driver kit is nice to have but not always necessary (usually you can find a socket or something of the same size as the lip of the seal)
Putting the 3rd member back in by myself was the hardest part, but it went right in with some effort (get your body in the right position)
I had to do my seals twice, the drivers side started to leak right away.
The auto parts store sold me two seals, one was the two piece, one was the one piece. My dumb ass went out and bought another of the two piece seals, installed both of those....one leaked. So that's when I researched the two different types and decided with the help of this forum, to use the older style.......now no more leaks. The two piece seal is for the birds in my opinion. I like the old school design, the big funnel is shape part is what keeps debris from your axle tube from getting into the seal and causing problems.

Forget about the outer axle tube grease seals, those things are a joke....they never hold and you will always see them dangling like a loose donut on peoples axle shafts....
 

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A little tip from overhauling ranch trucks and having mud bogging family members- I like to find a piece of foam pipe insulation that fits the axle shaft and the housing, a piece about 5 in long, glued to the axle, greased where it meets the tube. Helps keep dirt away from the seals, also makes installation without damaging the seal easier in my opinion.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just pulled the shafts, haven’t knocked the old seals out yet.

The shaft looks like this on the passenger side.



Do you know if that rust spot is where the seal rides? I’m not sure how the 2 piece rides on that vs the 1 piece and if it’s even going to be an issue.


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it looks to be just outside where the seal rides. Look really closely you can see the inner and outer "ride" marks where the seal was, the pitting appears to be just outside the seal lip

I would clean it up with some emery cloth or scotchbrite

I really really like the foam idea!

The dust seal from Ford never holds.....and if you let debris and mud in there eventually it will bitch up your inner seal!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This the upgraded inner seal?! Why have I not seen this? This looks like a great compromise between the two seals!

I went ahead and just tapped it in. I think it’s a little crooked but I couldn’t do much about that with what I had...

So far no leaks, not that that means anything.


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No, that is the upgraded "dust" seal it goes inside the axle tube out by the knuckle.
It purpose is to keep debris out of the axle tube that can effect the grease seal, which is the one that holds the lube inside the differential

I like how it has 3 sealing rings...I will try those next time I am sure I will have to do these again in my lifetime since I have a Dana 60 in my 97 a dana 50 in the excursion and I plan to install some sort of 4x4 into the E350
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ah gotcha, well I wish that was for the inner. Looks a hell of a lot easier to install straight.

Now that I’m looking at it with the idea of it being the outer seal it looks off. I’ll have to grab one and take a look, see how it fits in there. I mean I know it presses in lol.
 

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Now you have me wondering, when I lookup the National or Timken part number posted by Dan V it comes up as spindle hub seal, but i cannot find it as the outer seal under applications or what it is for
Hopefully Dan v will explain

I think it is the new outer dust seal like we were talking about, but it gets flipped around and the large washer part of the seal rides up against the end of the axle tube? waaaaay different then the OEM rubber donut of a "dust seal" that is always loose hanging around your axleshaft
 

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The terrible OEM seal, the one that is hanging loose on the axle, is replaced by the part number I referenced. The OEM SEAL is pressed on the shaft and rides on the axle tube.

The updated seal is pressed in the axle tube and then rides on the axle shaft, in a manner that a seal would.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nice, well damn that’s what I should have done... just rebuild the front end. Even used dantrac ball joints


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yea since the truck only has 66k miles now, I hope they will be a good investment. Plus I only paid 635$ for the set.


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