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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

New to the forum here but have been searching around alot on this conversion. I have "completed" my conversion and did it in just a couple days. Been driving it for a few days now. As with most projects like this there are some minor bugs to work out. I purchased a wrecked 99 f250 to do the conversion. I thought it should be pretty straight forward having a complete truck to do it with.

I had the electronic shift 4x4 and decided to use the manual transfer case from the donor truck since it was already mated and assumed good and i thought it would be more reliable in the long run. With that I have found that the case is cracked and leaking oil on the front side. I am about to pull it back out and try to assess the damage and decide it JB weld might be an option or actually welding it or I am considering splitting it stealing the input shaft and making my ESOF work instead. What are your thoughts. I had heard i need to cross a couple extra wires in order to make it go into low range with that setup. Currently i am using the original under hood harness with the manual transfer case harness and have a pair of wires on the transmission connector crossed over to allow it to start.

I attempted to use the donor truck computer but it gives me a check engine light but shows no codes when read. The cruise didnt work which i suspected might be the case because the donor did not have cuise. I am confused about the check engine light and it must be wiring related. the truck was very sluggish and could hardly pull hills empty in 5th gear. The previous owner of the donor truck had a chip on it and removed it, is it possible he damaged it in a way that it just detuned it?

I then tried borrowing my buddies computer from a 2001 xlt that was a manual computer. It did all the same stuff but did feel more powerful. So it had a check engine light with no codes and the cruise still did not work despite his truck having cruise

I then installed my auto computer. it works pretty well aside from a stutter under low load. I had seen another member ask about this and the responses he got were about the computer trying to shift and he should use a manual computer. The truck has lots better power, the cruise works and there is no check engine light.

It seems like things would have to work right if i swapped the under hood harness but now the only problem is that there definately is not wiring for the ESOF in that harness and given the first problem i mentioned that could be a problem and a lot of work. I had seen people running into ABS connector issues doing that as well.

So I want to hear all thoughts, aside from "you should have kept the automatic". I'd like to keep my current harness so as not to lose any functions such as overhead computer and grid heater (the donor didnt have one) Are there more wires I need to cross to make the check engine light go away and the cruise work with a manual computer? Is there a way to fool my auto computer to make it not try to shift? specifically which wires do i need to cross to allow the ESOF to work properly.

Help me out guys.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Is there not much activity on this section of the forum? Is there somewhere else I should have asked these questions?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The castings themselves are the same but there is more machined on the ESOF. I don't know how much of it is different between cases. I already got a cheap junk yard unit and took care of the transfer case problem. I am using the manual transfer case harness but still have the under hood harness for the automatic. I have taken care of converting the rest of the interior to manual including the cluster stuff, column stuff and getting rid of the electronic 4x4 switch.

At this point I am most concerned about fixing the computer problem. I am running with the automatic computer and it's good aside from hickups where I think it wants to shift or something. Power is good and all. Both manual computers I try throw the SES light but don't have any codes and the cruise doesn't work with them even though one truck had cruise. I cannot figure out why changing over to the manual truck under the hood harness would make any difference to the computer. What makes a computer not compatible with a truck? Is it sensor differences? Why are there so many computer differences for these things? Do I need to find the code from my computer then get a manual computer with the same code? What is making it unhappy?
 

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If your running a chip have it reflashed with a manual tyranny tune, that will override all the auto tyranny tunes in your original computer. That will take care of most if not all of your problems. If you don't have one get it. It's the easiest solution to your issues. Good luck!
 

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If I change my auto transfer to manual, does it require changing the transfer case or can I just install a floor shift and remove the shift motor? An then would I have to change the computer or just the PCM chip?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am not certain if the auto and manual transfer cases are machined identical but the castings are the same. The auto one definitely has more machined features and threaded holes for mounting the actuators but I don't know if the rod that comes out is the same between the two. I am guessing it isn't but if the hole for it is the same you could potentially swap out the rod and make it work. You would need to take the whole case apart I think which really isn't that bad of a job, I did it to swap input shafts. I have a complete manual case that has a crack that's causing it to leak but all of the internals are good so if you can us the parts to convert you auto to a manual maybe we could work a deal. I also have a floor shifter and a linkage rod but I do think the linkage rod is a different length depending on what you are putting it on. Let me know if you have any interest.
I don't think the transfer case has anything to do with the computer. I don't think you need to change a chip or anything to go from an auto transfer case to a manual one.
 

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I fixed the transfer case issue, which by the way the little motor gets stuck a lot due to non use and road gunk, just an FYI, when you did the conversion was it had to diesel? If so will a 7.3 or 6.9 stroker mate to a v-10 triton?
 
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