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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all!
about a month ago I purchased my first diesel truck, I bought the truck with the motor in the bed of the truck, the motor had a knock. The day of getting the truck I started ripping in the motor(my first motor I have touched internals on) I sure enough figured out the issue of the motor, the same day I started tearing it apart and one of the pistons had a broken side wall(issue found), everything was in wonderful shape, including the cylinder wall that had the broken piston! I replaced the piston with a new stock piston, new rings, new rod bearings, and I got the motor back together and had the truck running within 3 days(the owner was in shock)

Anyhow lets get to the good stuff,
stock isn't enough for me, this is a project for me and i'd love to take this thing down to the sand drags we have here in Arizona.

I currently have a complete bare block and heads,
I'm wanting to go oversized +.020 pistons
my rods seem to be in pretty good shape(forged rods) so I should be able to put some power to them and they should hold
I'm looking into the colt cam stage 2 from full force, but is it actually worth the bang for the buck?
and obviously new main bearings/ rod bearing/ new oil cooling jets, new arp rod bearing bolts, and a new oil pan, and oil cooler.

As for the top end;
910-16 valve springs
New valves
taking suggestions for valve stems, and lifters
for injectors I'm wanting to go a hybrid stage 2, but also whats the best bang for the buck?
as for the hpop I'm also taking suggestions, but have been planning on the adrenalin hpop
for the turbo I've been gtp38r, or the t4. what's going to run best?

I'm aiming for around 600hp, what could this all get me? please take in account that this is the first motor I've gotten, in no way do I have a good sense of what I am doing but its a learning process.



ALSO, what should I recommend to the machine shop to do? obviously honing the cylinders +.020 or whatever I decide to go, and a basic mill down on the block and heads, but what else should I be having done?

on a side note, I'm 22 years of age, I am a commercial fisherman of Alaska and this is my down time, so funds and time is not an issue.

I appreciate everyone taking the time to read this, and thanks in advance for the replys
 

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I personally would go with a t4 kit like Irates if your shooting for 600hp, are you going to be towing and daily driving or just balls out in the sand drags, that will kinda determine turbo selection, the adrenalin or terminator pumps should also support 600 no problem on hybrids, I would also think about the trans building for the truck if it's an auto. Isn't that truck from a member on here out in queen creek? I'm in as also out on the west side of phoenix in Goodyear if you ever need a hand. I also have a good machinist if your in need for one as well.

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Balance, and balance some more. girdle, studs top and bottom, I would have put carillo rods in and other supporting mods. Nice built tranmission. Lots of money for stuff to twist and break.


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Discussion Starter #7
​ DieselDC;5853385 said:
Balance, and balance some more. girdle, studs top and bottom, I would have put carillo rods in and other supporting mods. Nice built tranmission. Lots of money for stuff to twist and break.


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I definitely forgot a few things during the write up, Transmission is on the top of the list, I was checking into the monster transmissions they seem to be priced pretty good, but I have some time to decide on the transmission I go with during the build. I also forgot arp head studs, as well as a irate girdle kit which seems like a good bang for the buck. Carillo rods are so expensive! would the stock forged not be able to handle it? also forgot im wanting to do a water/meth setup, a electric fuel setup, and regulated return. probably going to go with a hydra chip with custom tunes.

I personally would go with a t4 kit like Irates if your shooting for 600hp, are you going to be towing and daily driving or just balls out in the sand drags, that will kinda determine turbo selection, the adrenalin or terminator pumps should also support 600 no problem on hybrids, I would also think about the trans building for the truck if it's an auto. Isn't that truck from a member on here out in queen creek? I'm in as also out on the west side of phoenix in Goodyear if you ever need a hand. I also have a good machinist if your in need for one as well.

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Great man! I appreciate the offer much, sadly I'm not near you, I'm located down near show low. I'm not sure where the truck originated from, but for about the past five years its been located down here. The t4 does sound like a much better selection, the gtp38r is so much cheaper though haha, guess I cant be a cheap ass though, right? I'm sure ill run into you at the drags when I get it going
 

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@2000SuperDirty
If your truck is a 2000, then you already have electric fuel. However, with those power goals and everything else you are doing, you should probably get a full fuel system, that includes the regulated return, which Irate sells also. Make sure you get the one for the Super Duty. As far as the connecting rods, since you already have the engine apart and you are upgrading everything else, all of the sudden the forged rods are the "weakest link". You might as well put some billet rods in now, or else you will just have to take the engine all the way apart again to replace if they fail. As for turbos, T4 probably would be the route to go for this kind of power, but KC Turbos is coming/already out with a 369 version of their turbo that is still a drop in. You might ask Charlie at KC his opinions on your power goals and that turbo. He will tell if it is not a good match. Hope this helps. Anyone can certainly correct me if I am steering him in the wrong direction.
 

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Stock forged rods will do 600 but imho - if it were me, I’m not taking any chances with stock forged rods. There’s a few running around with 500-600hp on stock bottoms.


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That crank is junk bro, it's all pitted. Thats a clear lack of oil problem and a pretty serious one too. Also, I can clearly see a barrel shape wear pattern on the rod jurnal there. Look at all the rod journals real close for taper or other irregular wear indicating the rods are bent or twisted.

Plan on either buying a new crank or having it ground and fitting undersized bearings, same with the rod bearings. Look closely near the journals and see if there are any numbers stamped on them, like 10, 20 or 30. This will tell ya if it still already been done before or not. Also, Those dark spots on the main bearings, what are those? Pull the bearings and make sure there isn't any funny business going on underneath those, it kinda looks like something got underneath the bearings, but maybe not. Maybe it's just a funny looking picture.
 

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This thing is going to be seriously bad ass when it all done. Who's doing the assembly? Are you going to let the machinist do it or are you doing it?
 

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Growing some balls cost money haha. OP said he took apart his engine and put it together so maybe he's doing it himself? If that's the case - give us lots of pictures!

Okay so let's hear it from some pros. Since I know chit will break after the transmission (built), how would we prevent axle wrap to prevent ujoints, axles breaking? Know the diff either sterling and or the Dana 80 will handle the added torque.


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Discussion Starter #14
That crank is junk bro, it's all pitted. Thats a clear lack of oil problem and a pretty serious one too. Also, I can clearly see a barrel shape wear pattern on the rod jurnal there. Look at all the rod journals real close for taper or other irregular wear indicating the rods are bent or twisted.

Plan on either buying a new crank or having it ground and fitting undersized bearings, same with the rod bearings. Look closely near the journals and see if there are any numbers stamped on them, like 10, 20 or 30. This will tell ya if it still already been done before or not. Also, Those dark spots on the main bearings, what are those? Pull the bearings and make sure there isn't any funny business going on underneath those, it kinda looks like something got underneath the bearings, but maybe not. Maybe it's just a funny looking picture.
I forgot the crank as well yesterday, problem solved already. I found a block with crank, rods ill be inspecting tomorrow. the crank has obvious coloration of lack of lubrication. Here are more pictures of the crank. I'm not sure if it'd be worth trying to save though
 

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This thing is going to be seriously bad ass when it all done. Who's doing the assembly? Are you going to let the machinist do it or are you doing it?
I haven't fully decided on whether ill have the machine shop assemble the bottom end, or do it my self. i'll have quite a good amount of money invested into the motor for me to no assemble something correctly and all of that money go down the drain, although the feeling of having touched internals and put together a motor yourself is quite a proud feeling, either way i'm just going to bite the bullet and get it done

​ DieselDC;5854329 said:
Growing some balls cost money haha. OP said he took apart his engine and put it together so maybe he's doing it himself? If that's the case - give us lots of pictures!

Okay so let's hear it from some pros. Since I know chit will break after the transmission (built), how would we prevent axle wrap to prevent ujoints, axles breaking? Know the diff either sterling and or the Dana 80 will handle the added torque.


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Should 600hp make me worry about the drivetrain system? as I've stated before this has been my first time doing anything like this.


I'll be bitting the bullet, and going to inspect the block tomorrow to see the condition of it, that way I can build that motor as well. I'll also be putting together my order list tonight and ill be ordering the parts. Time to get this all rolling and get it done!
 

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Well 600 at the flywheel is different than having 600 at the wheels. I know that with that power, you will break stuff b/c that’s a lot of torque. I know the axles will handle it just fine. It’s whatever is attached to it will suffer. I’ll have to do some reading on axle wrap and high hp rigs b/c that will occur once you up the power.


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Ill definitely have to do further investigation on the drivetrain system as well, but I'm sure an axle wrap could be fabricated pretty easily, ill have to look further into DIY fabrication of an axle wrap and see if it has been done.
 

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You'll want to search for traction bars, they are fairly simple to make if you know what you are doing. I'm maybe probably 100 sets in my life, and they are a very rewarding mod once installed.

And i noticed nobody answered you on your cam question. The stock cam is more than enough for 5-600hp build. The stock cam/valves can flow a good bit of air, and an aftermarket cam is not something you will need for what you are doing. Waste of money IMO. I think maybe after 650-700hp, that a cam and porting will help, but a solid 600hp truck shouldn't need a cam.
 

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I forgot the crank as well yesterday, problem solved already. I found a block with crank, rods ill be inspecting tomorrow. the crank has obvious coloration of lack of lubrication. Here are more pictures of the crank. I'm not sure if it'd be worth trying to save though
It looks a lot better than the first pics I saw, I'm not worried about the discoloration you're talking about. That'll polish right off there easy.

Unfortunately it's still got a few pits in it. It just depends how deep those pits are, because they'll need to be removed. If they're deeper than about .030" the crank won't be salvageable without welding and re cutting it. Thirty is the most I've ever seen undersized bearings, I don't think they get anymore undersized than .030. and welding and recutting a crank is probably more expensive than a new crank.
 
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