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I have replaced , ICP, IPR, .Runs fine until i shut it off, then try to refire backup and crank crank crank, and not start. Let is cool off for about 45 minutes and fires up fine. I am leaning to a CPS sensor , its probably the only thing i have not changed out yet. HPOP is new. I read in another forum that the CPS can cause this and that it has to reset on the battery once cooled off, it restarts. the idle is a little off as well. tach maintains for the most part but with lug down and go back up occasionally. . thanks for any help.
 

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Having engine data would be a big help... I have posted this many places: "I would recommend that you first invest in FORScan (forscan.org) and a suitable adapter. I have an OBDLink EX usb adapter (should you wish to use a computer to collect data), or take a look at either a BAFX or OBDLink unit. Both BAFX/OBDLink have a bluetooth/Wifi units (there are a few folks around here that recommend them) that will would work with a smart phone (Run of the mill box store scanners and even a great number of the higher end scanners can't touch these trucks as Ford used the "heavy duty diesel" protocol for communication). Once you are setup I would capture data.. At minimum I would save RPM (really this is CPS), ICP, IPR, MAP, EOT and IVS (at least I think that is the PID for the go petal). FORScan will allow you to save the data as a .csv file which you can import into excel. The information you get from the truck will help identify what your problem really is without just "throwing parts" at the truck."
Watch the RPM PID in particular while cranking... no RPMs = faulty or incorrectly gaped CPS. While the engine is running track the ICP and IPR values each time the truck comes back to an idle. If the IPR % at idle is increasing by large amounts as the engine warms up you could have a leak in the high pressure oil system. There are a few possibilities - external injector seals, internal injector seals, a faulty IPR (I do see that you have replaces yours), or a weak HPOP. I would start by testing the HPOP when the engine is warm (you can search PSN for the procedure). Riff Raff sells a nice blanking tool that get put in place of the IPR. You will also need a 5000 psi hydraulic gauge with a hydraulic hose and a plug fitting to block the other port on the HPOP. The HPOP should push at least 3000 psi, anything less and its time for a replacement. If the HPOP tests okay then moving on the the IPR - Leave the gauge and plug in place and put the IPR back in. Buy a pigtail that will fit the IPR. You can connect the IPR to battery ground and +12 volts for very short periods of time. Watch what happens on the pressure gauge - again you should be getting to 3000+psi. Still no luck - on to removing injectors. Buy OEM seal kits or look at the diesel orings website. Have the injectors tested before putting them back in.

Cj
 
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