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Hello I never liked Fords, but I stupidly decided to go buy one. It was a $400 "mechanic's special". It runs great, has a 7.3 powerstroke diesel, crew cab dually 2wd. It only had reverse when I bought it, so I pulled the trans fully rebuilt it myself. The problem was the drive clutch pack was completely toasted. I also replaced the solenoid pack bc I damaged the plug and it was recommended to be replaced anyway. I filled it full of 16 quarts of Valvoline DEX/MERC. And it went into all gears and seemed to work PERFECTLY!!! I was excited and proud of myself for fixing it. I hadn't driven it on the road until today, and it WILL NOT shift out of 1st gear. I could only get it to shift by flooring it and taking foot of the pedal after it shifted, otherwise it would downshift back to 1st. This was a a whopping 3100rpm... 2nd to 3rd seems to work fine... If you shift it manually from 1st to 2nd then back to D it will sometimes downshift back to 1st, other times it will hit 3rd... I checked fuses, fluids, plugs, and everything I can think of... No codes either. I am stumped, and pissed. I now hate that stupid truck. PLEASE help. I am no Ford expert and no transmission expert either. I know these are electronically shifting so is there some computer that could be bad??
 

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It's possible that it is electronic, but I'm leaning towards a problem in the intermediate clutch. Did you air check the clutches before installing the trans?

To eliminate electrical problems read the codes. If there is something electronic causing this it will set a code. Hint: The auto parts stores that read codes CANNOT read Ford transmission codes. Download Forscan at forscan.org and get an ELM327 adapter for about $30. Or take it to a good independent shop or a Ford dealer to read the codes.
 
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Hello I never liked Fords, but I stupidly decided to go buy one.
Nice opening on a Ford Diesel forum to ask for help! Is that a Dodge Bro trait (username checks out)? You're lucky Mark decided to try and help out.
 
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welcome to PSN. i agree with mark, it sounds like an intermediate clutch problem. i have one waiting on rebuild with the same exact problem.
 
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Nice opening on a Ford Diesel forum to ask for help! Is that a Dodge Bro trait (username checks out)? You're lucky Mark decided to try and help out.
I like trucks that are reliable, obviously I am just annoyed that this truck has so many mechanical problems. leaks oil, rear driver door is stuck shut, none of the doors open from the inside, driver door doesn't shut properly, brakes are super spongy. Lol, mainly I am also just poking at you Ford guys! They aren't bad trucks, the 7.3 is a great engine and super powerful, just drinks a lot of fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's possible that it is electronic, but I'm leaning towards a problem in the intermediate clutch. Did you air check the clutches before installing the trans?

To eliminate electrical problems read the codes. If there is something electronic causing this it will set a code. Hint: The auto parts stores that read codes CANNOT read Ford transmission codes. Download Forscan at forscan.org and get an ELM327 adapter for about $30. Or take it to a good independent shop or a Ford dealer to read the codes.
Thanks for the reply! I just rebuilt everything including the intermediate clutch pack, and I (believe) that I did air test it. I don't remember their specific names, but I are tested the two that go below the center support. One is the forward drive clutch, and I think the other one is the intermediate, but correct me if I am wrong because I am not sure. It is entirely possible that I did not install something correctly as this was the first transmission I ever rebuilt. When the shift lever is placed in 2 it works fine so I don't believe andy of the clutch packs are slipping. I have an OBDII code reader that I hook into the port under the dash. I'll drive it some more and try it again to see if any new codes pop up. Could the valves just be a little stiff from sitting? This truck sat for like 5 years before I fixed it. I checked all of the valves and cleaned them, so they were free.
 

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welcome to PSN. i agree with mark, it sounds like an intermediate clutch problem. i have one waiting on rebuild with the same exact problem.
Thanks! (Don't take offense to my username I just messing with you guys ;)) I really hope that isn't the case for me because I really don't want to pull that dang transmission AGAIN! Thanks for the info though, if all else fails I will check that!
 

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Thanks for the reply! I just rebuilt everything including the intermediate clutch pack, and I (believe) that I did air test it. I don't remember their specific names, but I are tested the two that go below the center support. One is the forward drive clutch, and I think the other one is the intermediate, but correct me if I am wrong because I am not sure. It is entirely possible that I did not install something correctly as this was the first transmission I ever rebuilt. When the shift lever is placed in 2 it works fine so I don't believe andy of the clutch packs are slipping. I have an OBDII code reader that I hook into the port under the dash. I'll drive it some more and try it again to see if any new codes pop up. Could the valves just be a little stiff from sitting? This truck sat for like 5 years before I fixed it. I checked all of the valves and cleaned them, so they were free.
What kind of code reader are you using? If it's a cheapo Actron or whatever, it won't work. It will tell you no codes, when there are in fact, codes. So unless you are using a higher end scanner or forescan, you won't see them.

PS: if you want a good argument, go over to the Dodge forum and call an extended cab a "super cab".

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 

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I am just annoyed that this truck has so many mechanical problems. leaks oil, rear driver door is stuck shut, none of the doors open from the inside, driver door doesn't shut properly, brakes are super spongy.
Do you think a Dodge truck would still be driveable if it had been abused & neglected as badly as your Ford has? Did YOU do all that damage to it? Or did you buy it with all that damage? Either way - don't blame the truck.

At least Ford doesn't have 3-piece brake rotors.

(phone app link)
 
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For $400, I'd buy that truck and be tickled pink by those problems. Sounds like it had a rough and very neglected life. I bought my truck for about ten times what you paid and mine was neglected as well. As for what the FSM says about your symptoms, it could be the following for a Delayed/Soft Forward Only:
-Fluid-Improper level
-Shift linkage or cable-damaged, misadjusted (it takes a special tool to re-align the transmission range sensor, are you aware of that?)
-Improper pressures- check pressure at line tap, if low: pump inlet filter and seal assembly, main controls, pump assembly
-Filter Assembly and seals-plugged, damaged
-Main Controls: Bolt not tightened to spec, gaskets damaged
-Center support Assembly-Feedbolts missing, improperly tightened. Hub damaged, holes blocked or missing
-Forward clutch assembly-Assembly. Seals or piston damage. Check balls damaged, missing. Clutch hub damaged. Friction elements damaged, missing. Stator support seal damaged

So, I' start with aligning the transmission range sensor were I in your shoes and hope that's it. It is likely that something went wrong during the assembly (not knocking your skills, transmissions are complex and very easy to goof up). This does sound like a low pressure scenario to me, but take that for what it is worth. I'm no transmission expert.

Do you have the ATSG Transmission manual and Handbook? If not and you want to give the transmission another go, I highly recommend you pick both of those up. I would not tear into a transmission without those. They give you a very detailed rundown on what parts go where, torque specs, clearance specs, and even what newer parts can be swapped out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What kind of code reader are you using? If it's a cheapo Actron or whatever, it won't work. It will tell you no codes, when there are in fact, codes. So unless you are using a higher end scanner or forescan, you won't see them.

PS: if you want a good argument, go over to the Dodge forum and call an extended cab a "super cab".

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
I am using an ACTRON code reader so that is probably the issue. Thanks! i downloaded forescan mobile app and I am ordering a OBD-II bluetooth connector so I can hopefully get proper diagnostics on the truck. Thanks again! I'll check back in once I get the connector and test it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Do you think a Dodge truck would still be driveable if it had been abused & neglected as badly as your Ford has? Did YOU do all that damage to it? Or did you buy it with all that damage? Either way - don't blame the truck.

At least Ford doesn't have 3-piece brake rotors.

(phone app link)
No I bought it that way obviously. I said I paid $400 and you get what you pay for 😂. I looked at purchasing an EXTREMELY abused Dodge of similar age with 375k on it. It had been used as a feed truck it's entire life but still was going strong and drove about 100 miles a day. Needless to say it was way too rough for the price so I passed :rolleyes:. Maybe my Ford is just a lemon 🤷‍♂️. Dodge makes excellent reliable and tough trucks, my only complaint is they are way too expensive and a bunch of stupid kids like to ruin them with dumb modifications. ALSO Thanks so much for helping with my transmission problem I was asking about o_O
 

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Discussion Starter #13
For $400, I'd buy that truck and be tickled pink by those problems. Sounds like it had a rough and very neglected life. I bought my truck for about ten times what you paid and mine was neglected as well. As for what the FSM says about your symptoms, it could be the following for a Delayed/Soft Forward Only:
-Fluid-Improper level
-Shift linkage or cable-damaged, misadjusted (it takes a special tool to re-align the transmission range sensor, are you aware of that?)
-Improper pressures- check pressure at line tap, if low: pump inlet filter and seal assembly, main controls, pump assembly
-Filter Assembly and seals-plugged, damaged
-Main Controls: Bolt not tightened to spec, gaskets damaged
-Center support Assembly-Feedbolts missing, improperly tightened. Hub damaged, holes blocked or missing
-Forward clutch assembly-Assembly. Seals or piston damage. Check balls damaged, missing. Clutch hub damaged. Friction elements damaged, missing. Stator support seal damaged

So, I' start with aligning the transmission range sensor were I in your shoes and hope that's it. It is likely that something went wrong during the assembly (not knocking your skills, transmissions are complex and very easy to goof up). This does sound like a low pressure scenario to me, but take that for what it is worth. I'm no transmission expert.

Do you have the ATSG Transmission manual and Handbook? If not and you want to give the transmission another go, I highly recommend you pick both of those up. I would not tear into a transmission without those. They give you a very detailed rundown on what parts go where, torque specs, clearance specs, and even what newer parts can be swapped out.
I used "Transmission Bench" Class Lessons on YouTube. I watched each episode twice before reassembly, then watched it as I was putting it back together. It is entirely possible that I messed up, but there but there were no leftover parts (which is always a good sign 😅). The transmission also goes into each gear normally and does not slip at all or make any strange noises... I'll try adjusting the MLPS again (I did line it up with the N mark the first time..)and maybe replacing it...
 

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UPDATE!! I drove it again this morning after checking all of the fuses and unplugging, cleaning, and replugging some transmission plugs. IT NOW will shift into second gear, but now 3rd is missing. To get it to shift I have to get it up to around 2250rpm, and take my foot off and it shifts into second while decelerating around 1900rpm... Unfortunately now it will not shift into 3rd. I tried manipulating the pedal, flooring it, and coasting downhill then accelerating... I am planning to test the solenoid pack once it cools off. Is there any way it could be the electric pedal sensor or the PCM be going bad? Also is it possible that the transmission just needs to be broken in? Thanks for all of the helpful responses! Obviously I am trying to avoid taking the transmission apart again...I have no idea whether or not this truck worked properly before the drive clutch pack went out, because the person I bought it from bought it as a parts truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
201434

Here is the rig in question... This was taken after I fixed the bumper that was hanging off and it doesn't show the drivers passenger that is totally smashed 😆
 

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I drive a manual.... so I don't have much if any experience with the autos (ok make that a nada experience). I seem to recall that the autos use info from the vss on the rear axle so my question is.. Does the speedometer work?

Cj
 
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I drive a manual.... so I don't have much if any experience with the autos (ok make that a nada experience). I seem to recall that the autos use info from the vss on the rear axle so my question is.. Does the speedometer work?

Cj
Yes the speedometer works and seems accurate. I should have manual swapped my truck before I spent so much $$ on the auto trans 😂. ZF5s are cheap around here and there are plenty of parts trucks...
 

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Does the OD button and light work on the end of the shifter? If it does is the light flashing? Cheers!
 
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cruise will not work if the trans is not working properly.

it sounds like you have electrical issues if it now shifts 1-2 but no 3-4.
i had a newer version (in an 2000 truck) come in with hard shift out of first, and no shift out of second and also felt like it was hung up in two gears.



it ended up being 4 quarts low on fluid, and three blown fuses.
 
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