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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy!

This is my first post and like everyone else, i need help!


I bought my first diesel about a month ago. It's an OBS 7.3 F350 4x4 CC!

Thing has 375k on it, so i expected some issues, but damn this thing has me stumped! Expect a long read..

Ran great for the first 2 weeks, although it felt sluggish. I ran some lucas diesel injector cleaner through two tanks. Seemed to help a little..

Then one day, drive for about 45 min, park at the store, turn it off, go inside, cone back, and it hard starts. Had been firing perfect before this!

Finally got it running, but have to give it some throttle or acted like it was going to die. Notice CEL and am next door to O'Reilly so decide to drive over and get it scanned.

CEL turns off before i make it over. Then, decided to recreate it by shutting off truck, and hopefully going through it all again.. This time it would not start.

Let it sit for half hour, still nothing.


Strong crank, no fire.


Get it towed to local #### shop which is #### (a little biased after dealing with them)

A week later (had to go out of town for work) of no communication and certainly no approval for work to be done, I drop in on my truck at their shop.

They say that there was water in the diesel and fuel pickup/pump? Under fuel bowl is toast. Need to drain and replace diesel and replace pickup/pump then will be good as new.

Next day go to pick it up, they tell me they also replace passenger side valve cover gasket and IPR, but still wouldnt start, so they pulled an old IDM they had laying around and got it to start, but runs really rough. Tell me to try and drive it to see if i could live with it...

Felt like they dropped a cam in it and had to give full throttle to get it to move a foot. I didnt cuss them at this point, but asked what the deal was. They say must be IDM since it was running with theirs in it, but needs new one, show me how to change it out, and tells me to just keep theirs until i get it swapped (what the actual...)

At this point I am irritated and disappointed, so go to AutoZone, order one and get it swapped out in the next few days. Amazingly truck started and ran a whole lot better!

Drove it for a couple days just fine, but it did feel sluggish like when i first bought it (lose speed going up hills unless WOT) and burning through fuel like crazy, whatever.. Nightmare is over and can get it into shop at my leisure to check it out... NOT!

Drive an hour to meet a buddy, park, have lunch, go out and start truck, fires up perfect, truck idling while BS'ing for about 5 minutes, truck dies.

Hard start (but easier than the first time), have to maintain throttle (died at red light then restarted fine), take it to diesel only shop close by.

They call me the next day that the fuel pressure switch is out, there was on o-ring missing off the fuel return line coming from new fuel pump that was pouring fuel out, injector #7 was bad, and ICP is bad.

Tell them to fix it all.

Couple days later they call and asked if i had just put an IDM on because they can see it's new, but it's bad..

Did a buzztest in front of me, sounded good, then pulled code for #5 open circuit something or another.

Swapped IDM with one out of a 2003 buzztest was good again, but this time show codes for #1,3,5 open circuit.

They say try to get the one from autozone swapped and they'll see what the new one does.

They say they ohmed out 42 pin and something else on injectors and was all good.



Does this all make sense to you guys?

I just dont want to get the run around again.

I will say this shop seems a lot more competent, but that is coming from an incompotent first time PSD owner.
 

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Project Shamu
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Theres a couple things I might check..

1) What CPS is in it? They can sometimes throw phantom codes for things like this. Always put a Ford Motorcraft or International CPS in them, never one from an auto parts store (like autozone).

2) check the harness that runs from the 42 pin connector to the motor. Right where it drapes over the valve cover it has been known to rub through and ground out on the valve cover (yes the valve covers are steel)

Let's go from there.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I get the new IDM tomorrow,so let's see what happens there and as soon as I get my truck back I will look at both of those then get back to you.

Thanks!
 

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Pull the plug on the passenger side uvch and look for burnt pins.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The shop called and said that the truck is running great after installing the new IDM.

I will pick it up tomorrow and report back.

This is just the start to a long journey of owning this beast!
 

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This is just the start to a long journey of owning this beast!
Yup :laugh:

Although you’ve come to the correct forum also PS Army is great too. Would have given up on my 7.3s years ago..like 1995 if not for this site and a couple others. Anyone can buy a new one, takes grit, patience and dough, lotsa dough to keep these old beauties runnin.
Cheers,
j
 

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Discussion Starter #7
UPDATE:

Shop installed the new IDM and truck runs and sounds amazing now!

On the other hand.. I had them do an inspection of the drive/power train, brakes, and suspension.

Apparently it needs a full front end rebuild on the steering, brakes all the way around, bushings, and has a slight oil and transmission leak.


They are ballparking around $3,500 out the door!

When o get the full breakdown monday or Tuesday i will post that
 

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Project Shamu
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Jesus $3500 you can buy an entirely new drivetrain...
 

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If its running good and you are competent replace that schit yourself as time and money allow
 

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If its running good and you are competent replace that schit yourself as time and money allow
Do this ^^^^ $3,500 will buy you lots of tools and parts, just need to learn and invest the time.
j
 

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Discussion Starter #11
$3,006 parts and labor to replace all ball joints, drag link ends,spindle rods, steering gear box, locking hubs (4wd), u joints, rotors, pads, and rear drums/shoes. Plus an alignment..

What do y'all think?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Also, if I did decide to tackle this myself can you guys suggest an order of operations based on safety or importance?

Also, links to anywhere showing me how to swap this stuff out would be amazing!
 

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Also, if I did decide to tackle this myself can you guys suggest an order of operations based on safety or importance?

Also, links to anywhere showing me how to swap this stuff out would be amazing!
Do this ^^^^ $3,500 will buy you lots of tools and parts, just need to learn and invest the time.
j

I would follow the advice of these guys. I only pay when it is beyond my scope of understanding/lack of proper tools. Lots of great info and instruction here.


These trucks are simple in overall terms. If you are going to own one, some self wrenching will be required. Otherwise, open a good line of credit. :wink:
 
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$3,006 parts and labor to replace all ball joints, drag link ends,spindle rods, steering gear box, locking hubs (4wd), u joints, rotors, pads, and rear drums/shoes. Plus an alignment..

What do y'all think?
Kinda depends where you live, thinking you’re in the USA right? Assume you mean just the drive shaft U joints and not front axles one yes?

The other thing to review are the upper (front) in frame leaf spring bushings. These typically don’t last and as they are narrow are prone to wear /failure. If old and booogered, steering will remain sloppy, fact is your steering assembly works against these bushin, in addition to the suspension, thus the fast wear.

Brakes first...

Cheers,
j
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Okay... Dont hate me.

I decided to sell the truck. ?

I know, i know..

But it wasnt just the suspension stuff.
I just didnt want to sink all that money into knowing that there was a slightly better 7.3.

I LOVE the OBS, but couldnt afford/justify swapping motors just for a little performance gain.

I really like the Super Duty body, too, though.

Plus that truck had 375k miles and the more I tore into it the more i realized how full of crap the previous owner was about his maintenance..


So im in the market for a cleaner canvas.

Not stuck on the Super Duty vs. OBS but where i am in Texas, these things get used.. It's just inevitable that the Super Duty has less miles.



Am I going to Diesel Hell for this?
 

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Project Shamu
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Just don't go buy in a Cummings or a Diapermax and we won't shun you lol, i've debated many-a-times to sell mine and buy a new 6.7...

Fummins might be an exception...
 

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Dont buy anything that is white and has holes in the bed from tool boxes. Those are oil field trucks and are beat to crap.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Well, i really appreciate everyone's help with that Tank, but now i'm in a 2001 F250 4wd with 200k miles.

Has had a 2010 body conversion and sits on a 8.5" lift. Gorgeous looking truck!

Has some electrical issues that i assume are because of laziness during the conversion. Power Locks/mirrors dont work, headlights pointed sky-high, etc.

She will need some front end work like the other truck, but seems to be in far better condition.

This 7.3 runs a lot better, but also has a small set of quirks i'll be looking to figure out.


Again, thanks to everybody that chimed in!
 

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Project Shamu
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Well, i really appreciate everyone's help with that Tank, but now i'm in a 2001 F250 4wd with 200k miles.

Has had a 2010 body conversion and sits on a 8.5" lift. Gorgeous looking truck!

Has some electrical issues that i assume are because of laziness during the conversion. Power Locks/mirrors dont work, headlights pointed sky-high, etc.

She will need some front end work like the other truck, but seems to be in far better condition.

This 7.3 runs a lot better, but also has a small set of quirks i'll be looking to figure out.


Again, thanks to everybody that chimed in!
Pics!!!
 
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