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What result should I expect if front end differential ( I think it’s Dana 60) is missing differential shafts, the ones that Go through the wheel and spindle gets connect to. On my is a long one and little short guy. ??

in the process of rebuilding it or building one. Just want to know if it not good for the truck not having those on.

I have excessive tire wear on the front. The wear appears to be inside the tire . Truck bounces at 40-45 MPH and when speed goes higher no bouncing. Replaced front shocks too.

Thank you
 

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the axle shafts are missing???... yeah it's not good because it allows dirt and dust into the center section that needs to stay sealed... pretty much figure the bearings/ races are trashed
 

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Them being missing is not going to cause your problems. But yes, like stated above, it does allow dirt and trash into the diff which usually will trash the center section depending on how long it's been open and if you have out the t-case in 4x4 to make the internals spin.

Your tire wear and bouncing I think is unrelated.
 

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How are the ball joints? Jack the front end up and pull on the bottom and top of the tires. Then try pulling the sides of the tires back and forth to see if the tie rod ends are loose.
 

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thank you for reply’s .
Checked ball joints today and nothing unusual, nothing is moving.
can it be steering linkage? At the same time it’s not pulling left or right.
tire wears out super fast. Tire pressures seemed to be fine. I tried 4 different pressures And still bouncing at 40 to 45 mph.
 

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I jumped the gun as usual. The ball joints are trash. The steering linkage bushings are yrash too. Found also and I’m not sure the name of it, but looks like the support bar or stabilization bar or something, about 20 inches long located right behind the front end differential on the passenger side.

Anyone like to help with part numbers ?
Also with my Axle shafts been outside ( for some reason when they took it out leaving it outside was a good idea lol) Should I try to reuse the shafts and the diff gears? If yes how do I clean and remove rust?

Thank you for your help
 

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Look into carli, EMF or dynatrac rebuildable ball joints, MOOG used to be good, but since they went overseas, they are garbage now

Yeah they are expensive, but they will be the last set you'll need, and if you replace just two sets, your very close to the price of a set of nice ones

Your going to have to pull the cover and pull the center section to inspect the bearings and races for pitting, the gears and pinion need to be checked.
Figure on replacing all bearings/races, but id be suprised if the ring/carrier is rusted unless it was sunk in mud and left in there...

A cheap rust eater is available at your local grocery store as white vinegar, leave the part submerged for a day for light rust, 3 days for heavy rust, rinse with water and IMMEDIATELY mist down heavily with oil... it will begin flash rusting before your eyes in only 10-20 mins depending on humidity
 

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I jumped the gun as usual. The ball joints are trash. The steering linkage bushings are yrash too. Found also and I’m not sure the name of it, but looks like the support bar or stabilization bar or something, about 20 inches long located right behind the front end differential on the passenger side.

Anyone like to help with part numbers ?
Also with my Axle shafts been outside ( for some reason when they took it out leaving it outside was a good idea lol) Should I try to reuse the shafts and the diff gears? If yes how do I clean and remove rust?

Thank you for your help
Personally I would use a wire wheel. Maybe a combination of some ospho them wire wheel what's left.
That's the trac bar. I did all new bushings (spring hangers, trac bar, etc) with energy suspension poly bushings. I did dana/spicer balljoints. Sealed units, seemed like they had some play.
Supposedly moog has gotten better in the last few years. Use it on trucks at work, so far no issues, but maybe too soon to tell.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Look into carli, EMF or dynatrac rebuildable ball joints, MOOG used to be good, but since they went overseas, they are garbage now

Yeah they are expensive, but they will be the last set you'll need, and if you replace just two sets, your very close to the price of a set of nice ones

Your going to have to pull the cover and pull the center section to inspect the bearings and races for pitting, the gears and pinion need to be checked.
Figure on replacing all bearings/races, but id be suprised if the ring/carrier is rusted unless it was sunk in mud and left in there...

A cheap rust eater is available at your local grocery store as white vinegar, leave the part submerged for a day for light rust, 3 days for heavy rust, rinse with water and IMMEDIATELY mist down heavily with oil... it will begin flash rusting before your eyes in only 10-20 mins depending on humidity
Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Personally I would use a wire wheel. Maybe a combination of some ospho them wire wheel what's left.
That's the trac bar. I did all new bushings (spring hangers, trac bar, etc) with energy suspension poly bushings. I did dana/spicer balljoints. Sealed units, seemed like they had some play.
Supposedly moog has gotten better in the last few years. Use it on trucks at work, so far no issues, but maybe too soon to tell.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Will probably use the wire wheel as well!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Would anyone suggest buying a 12 piece replacement steering suspension kit from 1AAauto? Looks like they got the whole set. I mean I want quality stuff and really don’t know if anyone tried it.
 

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