It's sad with the quality controll that manufactures are coming out with and the number of parts that are defective right out of the box.
But I have seen owners take a bad part and clean it up to take back to the parts store for a refund. The counter person just glances at it and put it back on the shelf to sell it to someone else. Amazon is nortoris for doing this.
A few years ago I went through 5 alternators before I got one that worked. This was on a car and not my trucj.
Installed 3rd lift pump. Cranks. Tach moves. IHOP full. Gp good.5th cps. Unplugged icp. Bypassed fuel to run straight from 1 gallon tank above engine. Clear hose from fpr to 1 gallon tank. Fuel is moving. No air bubbles. NO START!
checked sharader valve got 3lbs pressure. Put electric 10 psi pump in ( no change).
With steady start fluid lots of gray smoke no start.
Something different. I put a better gauge on the Schrader valve & have 10 psi with the 10 psi electric pump running. It does not change much while cranking but now I'm getting white smoke out the tailpipe & no start or try. Batteries are good & turning over about 300 rpm.
Is it possible the fuel regulator is not allowing the pressure to build up in the rails?
Don't have a block heater. It's 80 here most of the time. I think I got everything back right on the fpr. I did notice the white plastic piece that the screen is attached to is in two pieces but didn't look like it mattered as it was all there.
I just can't believe I would get 3 new lift pumps in a row. It's got to be something else.
With you getting white smoke out of the tailpipe tells me that you are getting fuel to the injectors. If you smell it it should smell like diesel.
I tried to find a diagram of a FPR but can't and I have never had mine apart so I'm not much help on it.
Are your glow plugs working by watching the volt gauge on the dash, in that it drops quite a bit and stays there when you turn the key on?
On the block heater, all of the OBS trucks came with the heater element but on the 95 the cord was a option. If you crawl under the truck and look directly above the oil filter and see a orange cord coming off of the attachment you have the heater cord. When new it is usually tied up on the drivers side of the engine but after 27 years who knows.
I'm still wondering about just having 10 psi when cranking on the FPR where 20 psi is minimum to start. Then once running it will be around 50 psi.
I am fair certain my fuel pressure regulator (fpr) is not allowing the head rail fuel pressure to build up.
As you can see by the attached pics there appears to be nothing to "seat" the metal plunger of the regulator spring assembly. If you look into the back of the cast aluminum part of the fpr where the plunger goes it is metal to metal!
I have searched for DAYS trying to find anything showing the internal diagrams of the fpr with zero success. It's almost as if this is the part of the 1995 7.3 that no one knows anything about.
So then I searched for parts to it & again almost nothing available for a 1995 7.3. There is plenty for 99 on & the 6.0. I even tried the bb mod with no effect at all.
I have no junk yards anywhere near me or I could just get a cheap one to at least look at for comparison.
At this point kinda stuck again. Are there any 1995 7.3 fpr guru's out there or maybe someone that has a 1995 fpr they don't need?
Thanks for the reply.
I have looked into it. The electric conversion is way more than I can afford. The mod where you cut half of the fpr off and use it as the regulator I don't think will help me as the half that you keep seems to be where my problem is. That's the only two I've seen.
I agree up to 97 should work. I just don't have any close. I'm out in the sticks but not far from a mailbox.
If I had another fpr I could verify my problem with 2 bolts & a couple of hose clamps.
As you have found out finding just the FPR is next to impossible.
How is the tension on the spring? If it feels weak you can replace it with a California kit that is available. It is a stiffer spring. I don't have the part number but it is listed in the part numbers thread on the forum here.
Other than that you can see if you can find a member who has gone to E fuel to see if they will sell it to you. Then there is always a new filter housing for around $400 or so, but I think that I would try the California spring first.
I replaced the factory fuel bowl with an E-Fuel kit, and no longer need it. Includes wiring harness for the heater, and two brand new WIX filters if you want them. I'm in N. California. $50 OBO + shipping
He was still here this last March you might try sending him a PM
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