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I have a guy that was parting out a 97 7.3. He will sell me the Turbo, pedestal and all, for $100. He said there was no play in the shaft but it wasn't spinning free. Is this a big red flag? It has been out of the truck so I'm not sure if the oil has dried out in the bearings or what. Is there anything I should look for? I would plan on rebuilding it and putting it in the truck when it is needed. Also I'm not sure how long my current turbo will last. I'm sure it is the original. My truck has 167,000 miles and has the oil changed religiously every 3k. Doesn't show any signs of failure yet, but for $100 it would be nice to have a spare turbo. I just don't want to throw away $100 as I seem to do that a lot on my vehicles.

Any input is appreciated!
 

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O my god NO!!.

Buy a rebuild kit from RiffRaff. They are about $100 shipped. They also have the directions on line on how to do it. With the turbo off the truck, it is a 30 min project
 

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O my god NO!!.

Buy a rebuild kit from RiffRaff. They are about $100 shipped. They also have the directions on line on how to do it. With the turbo off the truck, it is a 30 min project
Brad the ebay auction he linked is actually Barder Turbo so its not a bad kit.

This kit is a better deal though, still a 360* thrust but a billet wheel. This is the route I'm going with a spare OBS turbo I had give to me.

Powerstroke Turbo Upgraded Rebuild Kit w Billet Wheel GTP 38 Ford 7 3L Diesel | eBay
 

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Got it this evening.
I like the billet since I'm pretty sure I need a new wheel and I defiantly want a good kit, not something that will grenade after a couple thousand miles.

Now I just have to make sure that this will be usable. I got it partially disassembled. There was surprisingly little wear from what I could see, but this turbo that "was stored in the shop since removed" got some moisture in it at some point. It didn't seem to hurt anything it just made a lovely mess from what I can see. I know I need a new exhaust housing since apparently it is smart to use a torch instead of a wrench ...:mad: 1.0 housing?

I put a link to the pics below. Do you guys think that it would be logical to clean everything with solvent and polish with the cloth wheel on the Dremel or is it bad news?


http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/album.php?albumid=4257
 

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Brad the ebay auction he linked is actually Barder Turbo so its not a bad kit.

This kit is a better deal though, still a 360* thrust but a billet wheel. This is the route I'm going with a spare OBS turbo I had give to me.

Powerstroke Turbo Upgraded Rebuild Kit w Billet Wheel GTP 38 Ford 7 3L Diesel | eBay
The way I look at it is, my stock turbo went 160k with Zero issues, what is wrong with the stock thrust bearing NOTHING.
The only reason I rebuilt my turbo, was I was in there doing a WW2
 

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The way I look at it is, my stock turbo went 160k with Zero issues, what is wrong with the stock thrust bearing NOTHING.
The only reason I rebuilt my turbo, was I was in there doing a WW2
I suppose it would be wise to stick with the stock kit. It lasts a long time. I am having 0 issues with my current turbo. If it will go another 50k or more that would be great. I was just thinking though for under $500 I could do the rebuild and have a fresh one in my truck with the quick spool housing and a WW2. Did you notice a big difference with the WW2? If it isn't going to make much difference I would just clean this turbo up, store it, and put the $$ right now toward the 4 inch SS diamond eye exhaust I've been eying.

Thanks for your input!
 

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It does spool faster, no doubt. But a WW2 is different than a Billet wheel
 

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I suppose it would be wise to stick with the stock kit. It lasts a long time. I am having 0 issues with my current turbo. If it will go another 50k or more that would be great. I was just thinking though for under $500 I could do the rebuild and have a fresh one in my truck with the quick spool housing and a WW2. Did you notice a big difference with the WW2? If it isn't going to make much difference I would just clean this turbo up, store it, and put the $$ right now toward the 4 inch SS diamond eye exhaust I've been eying.

Thanks for your input!

The 360 thrust bearing is an upgrade over the 270 as there is more material for more abuse. As for the choice between upgrading a spare turbo when your stocker is still in decent shape and getting an exhaust, I would go with the exhaust every single time. Getting rid of the stock down pipe really frees up some power. Add a TYMAR intake and filter and you have a really nice flowing setup. Then save for the billet wheels and other goodies to install on your used turbo down the line. Barder Turbo and No Limit Tuning Design both have setups that use your stock hot side and center section with an enlarged compressor inlet, 66mm wheel and upgraded 360 degree washer kit. Theyare pretty good deals if you are wanting something akin to Beans Diesel's D66 turbo, or just use that turbo, or your old one as a core for a D66. If you are looking for just a mild upgrade to go with stock injectors, a Billet RiffRaff wheel, 1.0 housing and 360 degree washer aren't bad upgrades. That was my plan before I found out about the 66mm kits.
 

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Well I bought the a SS Diamond Eye 4 inch turbo back system today. Anyone have any experience with this setup? I have the 3" downpipe already but I figure I can sell it since I don't need it. I wish they made a downpipe back kit.
That would be awesome to upgrade to that larger compressor housing. Do you have a link? I imagine if I did that it would be a real solid system. Would that larger housing be good for towing?
I'm not looking for big power, it wouldn't do me any good with my 5 speed and 4.11s. I'm lucky to see 65 mph at 2150 rpm on the freeway as it is.
 

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So the new downpipe is 4" as well?

I'll bet if you looked on No Limit's and Barder Turbo's websites you might find those turbos mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It is a 3" downpipe. A 4" would be a pain and I already have my pyro installed in my current one. I looked at no limits and barder's sites but couldn't find parts just the complete turbos. I was wondering if I could get the parts to put the 66mm kit on my current turbo. I'll just have to contact them.
Exhaust will be here Monday!
 

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No you can't. The larger inducer won't fit the stock turbo. It requires machinework and the inlet also gets ported.

Just an FYI that your pyro really should be installed pre-turbo to get an accurate reading on EGT. Post turbo is anywhere from 250-350 degrees cooler than pre-turbo.
 

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The parts aren't listed on the sites. I know Barder sells his kit for around $700 including the machine work. Just give any of them a call and they can point you in the correct direction.
 
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