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crazed & deranged farmer
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm about to replace the u-joint flange aka yoke on the rear axle of our 95 f350 farm truck and I cant find a torque spec in the factory manual. I don't plan to take the differential apart of any of that just want to replace the yoke. I understand there is a crush collar inside that helps set pre-load but can I swap the yoke with out affecting bearing pre-load?

Basically what is standard procedure for yoke replacement in truck with out axle disassembly?
 

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STILL LEARNING
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18,324 Posts
This is NOT by the book but…..
Here is what I have done on at least 25 trucks with not one failure

1. remove driveshaft from axle
2. center punch pinion stub and nut(for location)
3. remove nut and count revolutions
4. remove yoke
5. install new yoke
6. put nut on and count revolutions when installing
7. go 1/8 turn MORE with nut
 

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crazed & deranged farmer
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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I understand its not quite "by the book" but this is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks Brad!
 

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Terminator Nation
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Service manual calls for pinion nut torque of 440-500 ft-lbs, but not many people have either a torque wrench or torque multiplier in that operating range.
 

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these axles have crush sleeve issues.
I would not reuse a crush sleeve like you are trying to.
I do not think you can swap the yoke without affecting preload, and I would go further to say that preload is probably out of spec now due to the poor design.

it is not hard to replace a crush sleeve or swap it for an eliminator.
only special tool is the inch lb dial torque wrench used to set the preload.
(that is unless you find the crush sleeve was buggered and the factory shims are wasted by the slop a dead crush sleeve causes)
 

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You can swap it without negatively affecting preload.

Measure what the turning torque is with an inch-pound torque wrench. Remove the old yoke, add the new one and torque the nut down so that it take 5 more inch pounds to rotate the assembly. Done.
 

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crazed & deranged farmer
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Discussion Starter #7
Where is the "crush sleeve eliminator" sold? If I were to do it the right way I'd prefer to upgrade at the same time.
 

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You're looking at basically a ring and pinion setup to add a crush sleeve eliminator. You'll need a selection of shims to get the pinion depth and preload correct.
 

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You're looking at basically a ring and pinion setup to add a crush sleeve eliminator. You'll need a selection of shims to get the pinion depth and preload correct.
provided nothing is damaged prior, carrier shims would not change, pinion shims would not change. the only thing you would be setting is the pinion preload with the shims that come in the eliminator kit.

You can swap it without negatively affecting preload.

Measure what the turning torque is with an inch-pound torque wrench. Remove the old yoke, add the new one and torque the nut down so that it take 5 more inch pounds to rotate the assembly. Done.
to do that properly he has to remove the carrier so you are just as deep in the axle as I suggest only trying to save $30 worth of crush sleeve eliminator.

the issue you will hit is that the crush sleeve that is in there is probably already out of spec, as is common to these axles
 

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STILL LEARNING
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IIRC the 8.8 crush sleeve eliminator works in the 10.25
 

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you have to enlarge a taper to clear the radius on the 10.25 pinion head, other then that it is the same kit for 8.8/9/10.25
 

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to do that properly he has to remove the carrier so you are just as deep in the axle as I suggest only trying to save $30 worth of crush sleeve eliminator.
Since when do you have to remove the carrier to determine the torque required to turn the assembly? I didn't say to determine the torque needed to turn the pinion.
 

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crazed & deranged farmer
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Discussion Starter #13
Well the repair is complete, no vibration above 45mph like before! But while I was under the truck I discovered the front driveline's u joint and the double-cardon u joint is totally shot. No needles were left in the driveline to axle u joint, just dust and the double joint off the transfer case has a good 3/8" slop un and down. Thats on the docket for this week!
 

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STILL LEARNING
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Well the repair is complete, no vibration above 45mph like before! But while I was under the truck I discovered the front driveline's u joint and the double-cardon u joint is totally shot. No needles were left in the driveline to axle u joint, just dust and the double joint off the transfer case has a good 3/8" slop un and down. Thats on the docket for this week!
Glad to see you got it running right again
 

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Since when do you have to remove the carrier to determine the torque required to turn the assembly? I didn't say to determine the torque needed to turn the pinion.
I know who I wont go to for dif work
 

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Not volunteering for you anyhow....but there's more than one way to properly skin a cat. Sometimes you have to put down your manual and think for yourself outside the box. Obviously you're not comfortable with that.
 
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