Ford Power Stroke Nation banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am really cautious to throw another 1.15 vs 1.0 turbo housing post out because I know there are plenty of these all over the internet over the years but I would like to solicit real world experience advice. My 1997 California split shot truck is in great shape. Truck pulls the aluminum fishing boat (Total trailer weight around 7500lbs) to and from the Oregon Coast from Portland which includes a couple miles of 5-7% grades over the coast range. I have an intercooler, wicked wheel, down pipe, blue donaldson filter, electric fuel pump, gutted exhaust, gutted EBPV and DP Tuner with a tow tune and a 60 and 80HP tune. Pulling the boat at 60 on flat highway at sea level EGT is about 700 and boost is about 5-6. When I get ready to go up one of the hills I try to get up to 65 and EGT climbs very quickly (easy to hit 1250) and it doesn't take long where I'm backing off and backing off and having to downshift to maintain 55. When I downshift the boost jumps up to the lower teens and EGT drops rapidly. I have felt for years that the boost isn't where it should be and the lower boost numbers keep the EGT higher than it should be especially having an intercooler (ATS) installed. Turbo is in good shape with no end play and if I hammer the throttle it will easily climb into the mid 20's and I'm sure higher. Thus my question. I don't know what else I could do to make sure I don't have a boost problem other than potentially changing the housing to the 1.0. My setup feels that I need to build boost earlier and if I could build more boost at lower RPM's I could get and keep EGT down and not have to back off the throttle as much. With 4.10 gears and all the typical mods I couldn't imagine pulling a 10,000lb trailer without dropping down significantly in speed on hills to keep the EGT below 1250. Really open to hear advice from those with a similar setup and experiences going from the stock 1.15 to 1.0.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
447 Posts
i did a kc billet wheel and a 1.0 at the same time so hard to say which one really did it but my boost went up 6ish psi and came on 200sih rpm sooner had stock tired injectors too though
 

· Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Go to a 1.0, My truck is specifically used for my transport business, always has a gooseneck behind it(10,000-16,000Lbs), I dont have an intercooler, with 3.55 gears i may even drop to a 0.91 housing. I did do riffraff bellowed up pipes and it did help my low rpm boost.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,512 Posts
Little more truck info would be handy. What size tires and is it an auto tranny and stock injectors? You’ve got a good combo of mods for sure, what I’d recommend is a .91 or even .84 A/R exhaust side and KCs balanced exhaust side wheel and billet aluminum intake wheel. Kinda depends on what you’re using the truck mostly for… and tire size and of course injectors. On my Tan Sig truck I’ve a 1.0 A/R (with KC exhaust wheel and RiffRaff intake wheel), running 4:10s and ZF-5 with 37” tires I’m wanting a .84 A/R for quicker spool with the 37s. If it was 315s or stock tires probably .91. You could also look at water injection and larger IC too. Might also look at updating your tuner to Hydra and I use Jelibuilt tunes, excellent power, smooth linear peddle feel.
j
 

· Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’m making a boost leak detector and have ordered bellowed up pipes thinking that I have either and exhaust or boost leak. I can see oil residue on some of the IC pipes near boots. I can get boost to climb into the 20’s but guessing in sustained climbs I’m loosing boost contributing to higher EGT’s.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,512 Posts
I’m making a boost leak detector and have ordered bellowed up pipes thinking that I have either and exhaust or boost leak. I can see oil residue on some of the IC pipes near boots. I can get boost to climb into the 20’s but guessing in sustained climbs I’m loosing boost contributing to higher EGT’s.
Good point on the boost leak possibility. With a bright light inspect the exhaust manifold to head interface (especially drivers side towards rear of block). Not uncommon for exhaust manifold bolt heads to pop off causing manifold to head leak. Crawl under and use flashlight to look at manifold/block interface for black carbon. Also inspect exhaust manifold bolt heads to ensure they have not popped off. Check up pipes and collector behind turbo look for black soot.
j
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,558 Posts
With a 1.0 turbo and tuner on basic tow tunes, are fuel delivery modifications necessary?
With stock injectors you should be fine. Cheers!
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top