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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, my last brake job was 90,000 miles ago and that was just rotor turn and pads. I mostly highway drive so generally not a lot of braking like city driving. At 158,000 miles on my calipers I ended up with dragging front driver side brake. I'm guessing the hub got so hot it cooked the dust seal on the end of the axle. See pic. I'm wondering how important this seal really is if I'm mostly on pavement and occasionally drive through some sand and dirt. Also curious what the dust seal and oil seal replacement procedure involves and should I replace the oil seal at the same time. I'm thinking it might be good to do both sides while I'm replacing brake components. Fyi; the wet on the seal is from me attempting to clean it to identify and then lubing it thinking I might push it back in. Turns out the seal is split into two pieces with the inner ring still on the axle. I have no idea how long this seal has been dangling. Just assuming the brake heat cooked it in two.

Thanks in advance for sharing your experience.

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If that's the yoke in the right of the pic, my dust seal was probably out and leaking for 50k+ Miles. The inner seal is a pain and have to pull the carrier I've been told. Pretty much all dust seals are shot on all trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If that's the yoke in the right of the pic, my dust seal was probably out and leaking for 50k+ Miles. The inner seal is a pain and have to pull the carrier I've been told. Pretty much all dust seals are shot on all trucks.
Cool. Because its hotter than hades in TX these days, I was thinking it wasn't going to be much fun. I'm going to leave it alone until I have greater motivation. The left side is the same "hoola hoop". Hopefully there will be feedback on the durability of the upgraded metallic dust seals by then.

I did find a good you tube video from Venture auto parts, or performance parts, that explains the procedure for the Dana 60.
 

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Cool. Because its hotter than hades in TX these days, I was thinking it wasn't going to be much fun. I'm going to leave it alone until I have greater motivation. The left side is the same "hoola hoop". Hopefully there will be feedback on the durability of the upgraded metallic dust seals by then.

I did find a good you tube video from Venture auto parts, or performance parts, that explains the procedure for the Dana 60.
Please post it! That helps the folks that come across this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here is the youtube link. I didn't post it because I had seen some posts where the video producer had taken it down or blocked it from the forum. May have been on a different forum though. Hopefully this one will stay up. It explains all of the vacuum seals for auto lock hubs too.

 

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The brakes on my '06 suck, particularly the rear brakes. The calipers seem to seize every year. I don't think it's anything I'm doing wrong (fluid has been changed multiple times), calipers have been replaced with both OEM and auto store versions. I suppose they could be updated with some brass / bronze inserts (whatever the right material is)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The brakes on my '06 suck, particularly the rear brakes. The calipers seem to seize every year. I don't think it's anything I'm doing wrong (fluid has been changed multiple times), calipers have been replaced with both OEM and auto store versions. I suppose they could be updated with some brass / bronze inserts (whatever the right material is)
I went with NAPA re-man Calipers and premium pads on the front. The calipers are stamped with Ford markings. I followed the complete bleed procedure I posted under 6.0 Tech section on PSN. So far, so good.

I also did some maintenance on my parking brake and inspected the rear rotors, pads, calipers a couple months ago after I had a stuck parking brake alarm issue in Montana back in March which seems to have been a salt and ice restriction in the PB linkage somewhere that did not actually effect the brake.
 
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