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Discussion Starter #1
So the widdle poopsie is starting to misfire. Here is a touch of background from the last few months on her...
In early October some sorry soul turned left in front of me and I smashed right into him. My bumper, passenger shock, brake line, headlight and quarter panel were really the only repairs needed. Anyway, for whatever reason my truck was at the shop for over a month. In that time she decided to stop starting, probably because she sat for weeks at a time. Ended up getting a new FICM from the dealer and new batteries.
After I got her home she ran like a champ for a week or two, now she's misfiring. It's been COLD here, like around -5 with windchill on some days and I don't have the engine block cord option. So I cycle her a few times before starting up in the morning and she always starts right up.
The issues start at about 45-50 MPH with the bucking. Does this automatically mean that I need injectors or are there other things that may fix it? If it is indeed injectors, am I able to replace only the ones that need it or is there no way to test them? I have a warranty on the FICM from the dealer, could that be the issue again? Thanks!
 

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Fixing Broken Stuff
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First check it for codes.
 

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Fuel it up again Dummy
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^^^X2 codes??
It could be a stuck EGR valve.
Low fuel pressure. Check fuel pressure should be 50-60psi
Make sure FICM is up on power 48 volts is typical.
 

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I've been having a similar issue in my 03. It really is unhappy with a 24 ft enclosed trailer behind it. I noticed after driving it today that the issue really comes into play in the 1600-2200rpm range. Anywhere above or below and it's fine. No codes. I think I'm just going to take it to someone to figure it out for me. It's driving me crazy.
 

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"Slap hands slap hands"
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As crazy as it sounds my truck started doing this about 3 months after I got it and the ABS light would come on and off quickly as well around 45 mph. Found out I had bad batteries and that these trucks need a lot of juice continually to prevent any issues. Later found out it was the stock batteries in there so replaced them both and whalaaa never had the issue again. Sounds really similar to the issue your describing. It would only do it around 45-50 mph then above that speed or below it ran and would be perfectly fine. Hope this is the same issue your having as it was a fairly cheap fix opposed to injectors. I thought mine felt like more of a tranny issue then misfiring injector but I'm not familiar of the feeling of a misfiring injector been fortunate enough to not have that issue yet.
 

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EA - Eggfarts Anonymous!
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...The issues start at about 45-50 MPH with the bucking...
^^^sounds like when my egr valve was sticking open right after shifting to OD... probly not it though lol
 

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x3 on codes? You could also try getting an IDS scan to see how the injectors are working cold/hot, then determine if any need replacing any injectors. Have you had the alternator and FICM checked (using a multi-meter KOEO, starting, and idling after)? I experienced something similar early last year when on the crossing overpasses on the Interstate and assumed it was stiction, especially after using AR9100, which cleared it up. I've since switched to T5 and it had run great, until the end of Oct when my wife started it and immediately noticed a bad vibration at idle and driving (more pronounced in o/d and low RPMs). Had a DTC for #7 injector with a low contribution/balance and confirmed by a local diesel shop. I replaced #7 with a Ford Reman'd injector and running smooth.
 

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after just going through this, your issue is injector stiction (providing you have good FICM voltage at all times). They show their face worst on converter lockup, especially cold and warming up. If you have any cyl contribution balance codes (which i am sure you may), that is the clue to which injectors are sticking. I have 4 bad injectors but i am replacing all 8.
 

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EA - Eggfarts Anonymous!
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What can be done to alleviate the stiction?
the 'band aid' is to do an oil change with 5w-40 full synth oil & a stiction oil additive. rev-x is one product, and it made enough difference that i'd recommend trying it.

i made a poll over them lol: http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=280642

but i'd imagine that my injectors were damaged enough when i bought them (216k on MC 15-40 & no additives) . they'll likely begin to fail & replacement will be eminent.
 

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<--We got the motor
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I just changed it about 50 miles ago and stayed with the 15-40. It seems like it will be a waste to turn around and change it right away. I also am not sold on spending 70 damn dollars on an additive that I can't conclude works one way or the other based on user claims.

Right now my truck is starting very hard the colder it is. It starts ok plugged in, but last year it started so much easier on nights I didn't feel the need to plug it in, say +40 or so. It has a all the characteristics of stiction and I am fearing it will need some injectors. The debate is do I do them all while I've got it opened up?
 

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It all depends on how much money you are willing to spend. Realistically you can just take apart your existing injectors and clean the spool valve with carb cleaner and lightly sand(600 Grit or Higher) the spool valve to remove build up, there are videos all over youtube. But if you want to throw money at it go ahead and buy all new injectors. If you have the money I would just buy all new injectors.
 

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scouts out...
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This winter we had a strom roll in that brought temps down to -30, Now up to this point I had never had a hard start issue(heater plugged in or not) but during that storm I did. When it finally did fire off it did not sound good at all. I was due for an oil change so I switched to 5-40 full synthetic and added Archoil products to the oil and fuel. I haven't had an issue yet, but I wouldn't go as far as to say I have a stiction issue just yet as it hasn't done it again even down to -20 but it certainly helped whatever the issue was.
 
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