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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So opportunity came knocking and I bought a 03 f350 5.4 gas 2wd with a manual with the rear axle out and removed for $300. I just happen to have a set of f450 axles and tires so I'm looking at doing a crazy swap. Both trucks are can n chassis and 2wd, the f350 will not come with tires so I'm looking at using the 19.5's from the f450, and I want to do this as cheap as possible.

I've done some looking and it looks like on the rear I just have to change the spring perches and something to make the drive line work. The front I'm not so sure since the f350 is leaf and the f450 is coil(I think). Does anyone know about the front axle or if just the spindles can be swabbed. I want cheap and dirty....as long as it's safe too.

Thanks
 

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I've never seen a 2wd leaf sprung super duty. Even my 99 f250 2wd is coil. Not sure about the hubs, might just be an adapter you need to bolt on...

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah it's coil, the frame looks to be much taller on the f450 so I think hub adapters will be better choice.

The rear looks easy, I think the spring perch width looks close to the same.

Still waiting to get the truck, they have to take the bed off first.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Still haven't got the truck, they are close to having the bed off.

I took some pictures and compared the front axles and looks like everything will bolt up and uses the same holes for the front axles, the radius arm mounts in front have an extra bolt that will need to be installed. I will have to use the f450 steering gear box.

The rear appears to have the same spring width, the leafs look wider.

Will keep updating this crazy project
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well after struggling to give the owner money and get the title, then trying to get the truck home, I finally got it home.

Done a lot of rough looking, on the rear just looks like a conversion u joint for $30, I'll figure more out later.

I originally bought it without tires and a bed, they cut a bunch off the bed then didn't want it, after I convert the front I'll give back the tires, I'll have to buy two new 19.5 tires as I have one bad and one crappy.

Do the jack stands look safe?







 

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Discussion Starter #7
Pulled out the 450 axle last weekend and trying to move it hurt my back so after moving it with a tractor and using a bar to move it in I rested my back.

This weekend I'm back in action. To reuse the 450 u bolts you either have to take apart the spring packs and change out the top u bolt keeper stuff. When I un bolted the 350 it broke, so I just removed the whole 450 spring packs and installed them in the 350 frame. This requires drilling the front mount just a little bit to 13/16". The rear bolt is the same.

I got the 450 axle in, spring packs in, and u bolts in. The shocks are the same, the sway bar looks like I can use the 450 one. The speed sensor is different, so I might just splice the connector over. The e brake is different, haven't looked into that yet.

The pinon length seems to be the same or close enough, I measured the drive line length and it seems like it will work. I should just have to buy 3-1448 conversion u joint and bolt it up.

We will see what tomorrow brings, ohh I changed the jack stands after I got the axle under the 350. While I was setting the jack stands better on the 450 it fell and is now sitting on the fuel tank.

Ohh, the 350 bed has many access holes cut into it from the previous owner, makes things easier I guess. $300 truck lol







 

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Nice looks like you have a Dana S110 axle there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I tried to look at the label to see what ratio or if it's limited slip, but it's kinda gone.

I'm gonna laugh if it's the super short 4.88 or 5.30. The gas rear end is still with the previous owner, I'll pick it up sometime, it's probably a 4.10 or 4.88 or something.

This might be a good setup since I'm making a winch truck out of it and having extra load on the rear with 450 springs and axle will make it last more.

I might put a 6.0 and a auto in it someday if I find one cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Nearly done, just largely need the u joint. The e brake I had to swab the short line under the cab. Not sure on the swab bar yet.

I'm pretty sure I'm going with spacers in front, $300 a tire is the running price if someone knows a better place let me know.

Need to:

Buy u joint, cut out old, find the u joint straps, install
Tighten bolts on output shaft
Tighten lug nuts on rear (lol)
Install 450 sway bar
Rob speed sensor from 350 and see if it bolts in the 450
Weld new bracket for e brake





 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just about wrapped up with the rear end. I swapped back the 350 short cable for the e brake and separated the two e brake lines and installed it like the 350 was. Works excellent!

I'm going to look at the sway bars and hopefully install the 350 if it's the same mounting points to keep proper handling, if they are the same thickness I will go with the 450.

I spliced the 450 speed sensor and still have the abs light, I'll look at that one a different day.

The combo u joint was the wrong size, the gasser is a 1350 and the 450 is a 1480, and they don't make a combo for it. So at a local fab shop, $32 for a weld yoke and $110 labor, I have a custom drive line in.

I'm having a blast driving this truck with it being a single cab, takes me back to when I was a kid and all trucks were single cabs and lots were manuals. I've driven about 60 miles on it so far, got it driving Monday night.

I've been looking at the 450 axles, I will probably install them on the front, probably in the spring. I included a pic of a winch truck with gin poles what I'm going to make this truck for. I was able to get the headache rack that was cut off, so I'll weld that back on.











 
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