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Discussion Starter #1
Twice my 2006 F250 6.0 stalled and wouldn't restart until the next day when it started right up. Third time no go. Crank and no start. Got a scan gauge and while cranking find FICM at 48 volts, IRP at 84.5%, SYN at 1, and ICP at 0. Replaced the ICP Sensor to no avail. Before I dig deeper under the hood and replace the IRP valve I would like some advice. I am told it it unlikely it is the pump in a 2006. Please help.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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You need to do an air test to pinpoint the leak in the high pressure oil system. Could be the HPOP discharge (STC) fitting, or the standpipes, or the dummy plugs (assuming these parts are all still original).

Could also be the IPR valve.

Best way to do an air test (IMO) is to order the IPR fitting so you can remove the IPR and air test from that "port/fitting". You can air test through the ICP sensor port also (it is easy to get to), but sometimes a leaking IPR valve makes pinpointing a leak somewhat difficult (assuming you do have a leak somewhere else). Also, you have to close the IPR valve for the air test when you supply air through the ICP sensor port.
 

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Thanks for your thoughtful and detailed responce. My challenge is dealing with this challenge in my driveway in rural Maine mid winter. Don't know how to perform an air test with my resources. IN the interest of throwing money at the problem, where do i throw first. My apologies to those who work with these issues unabridged.
 

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Do you have base oil pressure when it won’t start? Are you using an OEM filter?

Even with a full open IPR you should still have about 150psi of pressure. Have you replaced the STC fitting?

Whereabouts in Maine? My family has 12 acres in brownfield, and we often escape to the Allagash wildnerness waterway in the summer.
 

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These modern day diesels can get complicated. You can spend a LOT of money if you don;t do the proper troubleshooting.

Air pressure testing:


[ame]https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6764-Injector-Regulator-Controller/dp/B008KYNLK4[/ame]
 

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Testing through the ICP sensor requires closing the IPR valve. There are several ways to do it, but you need to either "backprobe" a PCM connector or rig up a connector for your IPR valve that can supply 12V (pos and neg) to the valve.

To do the air test, you get a better test if you listen for the leaks with the valve covers off (for injector leaks), but you also need to listen for the air leaks at the oil fill tube, turbo oil drain tube, the CCV opening, and at the oil filter housing (filter removed).

The dummy plugs and standpipes are known leak points. They are under the valve covers (in the oil rails).

The HPOP STC fitting is harder to upgrade.

Simple searches will reveal videos on doing all of this.

The problem is that you need some tools and mechanical experience to do this work. If you can't do the work, then you will probably be at the mercy of a shop treating you honestly. Most do, but some don't. If a shop tells you that you need an HPOP, then I start to get suspicious. The 05-07 HPOP's are fairly reliable and changing them out when they don't need to be is far too common.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mathewd11, I'll have to check base oil pressure. Yes I use OEM filters. I'll have to research the STC fitting.
I live in Rumford. Alligash is a nice area.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Bismic1, thanks for the additions. I'm fine doing the work, I would rather do it in a heated garage though. I'll research your suggestions and see what I come up with. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
After spending the day watching videos I have decided to remove the IRP and do my air test throughout that, and rebuild it at the same time. Should have all my parts here by mid week. If I have to go deeper into it I'll probably tow it to a garage.

Ill keep you all posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I will say the oil indicator on the dash does not move while cranking the engine. Wouldn't that indicate there is no base oil pressure, and does that point to something totally different?
 

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No base oil pressure when cranking can indicate an issue w/ the low pressure oil supply, or it can be that there is a large leak and the HPOP is pulling down the base oil pressure.

The oil pressure sensor is a simple switch that will cause the dash gauge to move up at around 7 psig (not very much pressure actually).

First thing to do is to pull the oil filter and have someone crank (or you can do it with the starter solenoid wire jumpered to the passenger battery positive terminal) and see how fast the oil filter housing fills up. It should fill up in 10-12 seconds with the filter out. If you depress the housing drain valve (to close it), it should fill in 3-4 seconds.

This test will point you in the right direction. It needs to be done before jumping into the air test process.



If you don't get good flow, then check the oil pressure regulator by the harmonic balancer.


 

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Just to elaborate on matthewd11's post, take a look at the video below. Note the tall filter cap. Make sure you don't have that!

 

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If you need to do the STC fitting, this is a good video also:


Here is a good one on dummy plugs and standpipes:


.... but be aware that the STC fitting was on 05 and up, not the late 04!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Took out oil filter and cranked the engine. Good flow to the oil housing. Nice find on the starter wire!

Will update when I get the IPR tool and do the air test
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Further inspection shows the o ring on the end is compromised. I'm guessing the screen is still in the hole since I couldn't insert the magnet more than 1 1/2 inches.
 

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The screen is missing. See if the screen is stuck inside the IPR port on the HPOP.


Go to time 9:18 or so and begin watching.
 
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