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Discussion Starter #1
Working on a friends 05 6.0l that’s a no start. It has about 70,000 miles on it. I just towed it home last night and did some quick checking but did not dig into it.

When I picked it up, I was able to ask a few more questions on what happened. It turns out that over the last 4 months the truck would just shut off or not start. He could come back or wait 10 mins or so and it would start and run fine for 2-3 weeks then unexpectedly it would do it again.

He did say that one time it happened when he was coming up and off ramp, he turned his turn signal on, and the whole truck just shut off.

Things I do know that I check last night.
It has fuel pressure
Has not trouble codes stored.

Things I was going to check
FICM voltage
High Pressure oil (is there a way to do this with out a scan tool what this set a check engine light and store a code if it was low)
Cam Sensor

What would be your guys next step on diagnose this?

Thanks
Mike
 

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Sounds like high pressure oil issues. Going to need something to be able to monitor pids. monitor icp pressure, Needs 500 psi to start up. The o rings on the dummy plugs in the oil rails will not cause it to die while driving and if the stc fitting on the pump failed bad enough to cause it to die then it more than likely would not restart after 10 min. The ipr will cause it to die if it is sticking open though..

Try unplugging the icp sensor on the passenger side valve cover and see if it starts, may be as simple as a biased icp sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok just went out and unplugged the ICP sensor still nothing. (passenger side valve cover up by the glow plug control relay correct)

I have checked the FICM for voltage. With the key on I get 36 and it slow drops to 31 while the injector are doing there pre-heat. While cranking I get 48 volts. 31 is to low but the 48 volts cranking is good. So I'm a little stumped on that one.

Thing I notice while checking things out. The low side oil pressure gauge comes up after about 2-3 seconds of cranking.

The tach while cranking comes up between the 0 notch and the first notch on the tach.

Could this me a simple CMS or CKS sensor?

What would you guys check next?

Might be time to buy the auto enginuity.

Thanks again
Mike
 

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Here is a way of checking to see if you have sufficient high pressure oil without having a gauge or adapter. Strip back the wires about an inch away from the icp sensor connector. Obtain a digital multimeter and set it for voltage (DC). The bn-wh wire is a five volt reference, leave that alone. Strip back the db-lg signal wire and the gy-rd ground wire. Put positive lead on a dark blue-light green wire and negative lead on gray-red wire. Have an assistant crank truck, you need a minimum of 0.80 volts (500 psi) for the truck to start, if you are getting greater than that then you have sufficient high pressure oil. Instead of stripping the wire you can use leads that poke through the insulation and then wrap over the penetration point.

Nevermind - the FICM is shot. Make sure the batteries are in good shape - have them load tested.
 

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Replace the ficm, I still think there is a lack of high pressure oil though. Most still start wit that voltage but have cold start misfires. Follow bismic1's instuctions and update us.

P.S. I have rebuilt ficms that i can sell. 90 day warranty with core.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll will try the High pressure oil test tonight. That good information.

Isnt it a little odd that after the injector do there pre heat and while cranking the FICM voltage goes right back up to 48v? Or is that normal for a FICM that has failed?

When I was doing the test on the FICM the battries were almost dead from my freind trying to start it. I had it on the battery charge and it had enough for it to crank over fine but there were still low.

Whould that have anything to do with my low reading when the injectors were doing the pre-heat?

Thanks for all your help
Mike
 

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Weak batteries can cause low ficm voltage. With good batteries the ficm should never be below 48V. There is no load on the ficm when the injectors are not "clicking", thats why it climbs back up to 48V. Start with good batteries and go from there....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
All right more results.

First thing I test when I got home was the FICM again. When I first turn the key on and the injector are doing the pre-heat I get 41 volts as soon as that stops it jumps up to 48 and stays there. THe minute I start cranking it still stays at 48 volts. So for know we will assume the FICM is good.

Now for the bad part. Checked the Dark Blue-Light Green wire with the key on I get .4 volts with the engine cranking over I get .6 volts. Must not be enough to fire the injectors.

So what next?

Start pulling the IPR out and see if the screen is plugged or has metal shaving in it?

Thanks
Mike
 

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All right more results.

First thing I test when I got home was the FICM again. When I first turn the key on and the injector are doing the pre-heat I get 41 volts as soon as that stops it jumps up to 48 and stays there. THe minute I start cranking it still stays at 48 volts. So for know we will assume the FICM is good.

Now for the bad part. Checked the Dark Blue-Light Green wire with the key on I get .4 volts with the engine cranking over I get .6 volts. Must not be enough to fire the injectors.

So what next?

Start pulling the IPR out and see if the screen is plugged or has metal shaving in it?

Thanks
Mike
Yes, start there. Ford now has a screen kit for the IPR. Replace that first and retest. That doesnt fix all of them, it may need the IPR replaced. May be stc fitting on hpop and or dummy plugs and stand pipes. PM me the vin number and i will check to see if the stc fitting was replaced with the updated version, If it has already been done it will not need to be done again.
 

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BTW......

The FICM should not be below 48v, even while cranking. I would not worry about that now. Retest the ficm after the truck is reunning and has a good charge on the batteries.
 

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BTW......

The FICM should not be below 48v, even while cranking. I would not worry about that now. Retest the ficm after the truck is reunning and has a good charge on the batteries.
IIRC, Ford's value is 47.5V, but I agree w/ you!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Any good how to on how to pull the IPR. Looks like you have to remove the turbo and then it's rights there. I have done alot of EGR deletes and oil coolers on these trucks but never any thing with the HP oil pump and IPR.
 

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Will AE tell you what is being demanded from the ECM? like if I didnt know what the PSI was to fire the injectors...would it tell you? I know the OTC scanners will but I am not familar with AE.
 
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