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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I'm new to the forum but need some help. I bought an 05 about 3 months ago and never had any issues. I'm working a job up in Cleveland, OH and need to get my truck up and running ASAP! It cranked up fine in the morning and didn't have any problems until the afternoon. It just lost power and
coasted to a stop. No warning lights or nothing! I thought it was the alternator so put a new one on and left the shop and about 10 miles down the road it lost power again. It threw a few codes, I will call the shop tomorrow cause I don't remember the numbers, but one glow plugs was bad and one injector wasn't out, but they said I needed to get it replaced soon. I honestly just know the absolute basics about diesels and don't know what the problem could be. I also got jumped off a few times and it died again while it was getting jumped off. Also, if anyone reading this lives in Cleveland can you please recommend a good diesel mechanic nearby. I'm up here for work and gotta get these jobs done and don't have time to fix anything to big. Could a battery be the issue or something serious? Thanks for the help in advance!
 

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Trust me, I got this...
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I think getting those codes would be essential to give you any worthwhile advice. Could be a sensor on the engine, could be the gauge cluster, could be something else as well.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Why did you think it was the alternator? Slow crank? Battery light? I agree that the batteries being bad could cause it to die like that. Those should be easy and free to test. Is the crank strong? Remember you need 150 rpm minimum to start.

Also, you can check to see if the secondary fuel filter bowl will fill quickly (w/ filter removed) w/ the key on. This is a two person test to keep from overfilling it. You can also drain some fuel from the HFCM water drain valve to see if it looks bad or smells funny. Just checked the temps there - pretty cold, maybe the fuel has gelled?

You should also check the oil level to make sure it is neither low nor overfull. Making sure that the oil filter bowl fills when cranking (should fill in 10-12 seconds without depressing the drain valve) is easy to do also.

The codes sure would help, so would engine data when cranking (ICP pressure and FICM voltages to start with), but it wouldn't be hard to do the free tests listed above.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The guy I bought it from, my dad and a buddy of mine said it could've been that and it did test low when I was at the shop. They did check the batteries as well and they said they were ok, I'm gonna get them tested again tomorrow though too. I'm not sure if the cold just drained them? It's -2 up here. It normally cranks fine sometimes it does take a little longer but no, no battery light came on, neither did check engine light. I'm gonna go try and crank it and see what rpms it's turning over. And no I didn't know that, so thanks for telling me that! And is there a way to check if fuel has gelled? I started putting fuel additives in it yesterday on my drive up so it wouldn't gel, but I mightve not put enough. I did put the correct amount in according to the bottle, but maybe I need more since it's so cold? I will do the filter tests with a mechanic just cause I'm here by myself and will also get the codes and once I find a diesel mechanic I'll get the engine data as well. Thanks again for all the help!
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Check to see if turning the key on fills the secondary fuel filter bowl. To do that you will need to remove the cap and the filter. That is one way to check on fuel gelling. If the fuel flows into the bowl quickly, you are probably ok. The other way is to drain the primary fuel filter at the water drain and/or remove that filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok Im gonna do that first thing in the morning. Like I said in first post I don't much, and figured out engine data. FICM was at 49, ICP was around 19k, and ICR was 14.9. and I talked to my buddy and said those are all good
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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All data needs to also have the conditions at which it was taken (ie at KOEO, cranking, idle, etc).

FICM at 49 (if it is when cranking) is good.

Would also need the FICM logic power when cranking. Need the FICM sync value also.

ICP at 19k doesn't make sense at any condition. It should be around 50 w/ KOEO, over 500 when cranking, and 800 + when idling.

IPR at 14.9 is fine at KOEO, but we need to know the cranking value also.

Don't forhet to post the cranking rpms.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Checked fuel filter this morn, fuel was pretty thick and tried to get a jump and it was barely turning over. Had at most 100 rpms when I tried to crank it.
KOEO- FICM-48, ICP-0, ICR-14.9,Sync- 0
Cranking up- FICM- 47-49, ICP-2050, ICR-69, sync-1
It sounded better last night when I tried to crank it so I think one of the batteries is dead
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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What oil do you have in it? 15W40 is going to make it a lot more sluggish to start. A 5W40 or a 10W30 is much preferred in winter time (in fact Ford doesn't recommend 15W40 below 40 F).

You have a block heater in it (they all came that way). Do you have a cord for it? If not, get one and plug it in for a few hours.

Only you can evaluate the condition of the fuel. If you say it looks thick, then IMO it is also a problem. You probably should plan on replacing both fuel filters. Get OEM filters, not aftermarket.

IMO if one battery is bad, then get two new ones unless the good battery is new or almost new.

bear in mind, you could have a starter going out also, but the place to start is with CONFIRMED good healthy batteries.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Im running Rotella T6 5W40 and I just changed it 2,000 miles ago and changed the oil filter. I replaced the fuel filters about 7000 miles ago. Before I came up here for work I was trying to get a cord and I found one at the Ford dealership but they told me most of the trucks that are sent to the southern states don't get them. Not sure if that's true or if the guy was bull####ting me. Thanks again for the quick replies I ended up just towing it again to a diesel shop but still waiting to hear back from them.
 

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College Student
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For the 2011-2015 6.7's (possibly up to current) a block heater and cord was an option that was regionally fitted. In Idaho most were. But in easter Oregon, some were not. One buddy got his in Boise that came with the cold weather package I want to say it's called, and another buddy got one in La Grande Oregon that did not have any of that stuff fitted.

Not sure if they did the same years before and for the 6.0.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Im running Rotella T6 5W40 and I just changed it 2,000 miles ago and changed the oil filter. I replaced the fuel filters about 7000 miles ago. Before I came up here for work I was trying to get a cord and I found one at the Ford dealership but they told me most of the trucks that are sent to the southern states don't get them. Not sure if that's true or if the guy was bull####ting me. Thanks again for the quick replies I ended up just towing it again to a diesel shop but still waiting to hear back from them.
It is true that most Southern states didn't get the electrical cords for the block heaters with the 6.0L. For the record, you can get one at about any parts store, not just the dealership.

Ford part # 5C3Z-6B018-DA (05 and up)
Zerostart: 3600008
KATs: 28216

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/accessories-16449/winter-accessories-16523/engine-heater-cord-11347/224c814af172/2006/ford/f-250-super-duty?q=Engine+Heater+Cord

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/kats-engine-heater-replacement-cord-28216/11289713-P?searchTerm=KAT+28216

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/KAT28216

Changing fuel filters at ANY interval has absolutely nothing to do with getting a batch of thick and gelled fuel, especially in a cold snap. That can happen at any time and sounds like one of your issues based on your earlier post. When you have gelled fuel, you change fuel filters with new OEM ones, and add a healthy dose of something like Diesel 911. I don't care for that specific product, but if you are already gelled, you may need it to get the fuel in the tank flowing again. It does work for that. It does contain alcohol, which tends to emulsify water and that isn't the best for the injectors, but sometimes you have no choice.

So, for batteries and fuel gelling issues, you almost certainly are going to get a fairly high bill at a dealership (hopefully not, but just sayin'). Hopefully it is nothing more serious. A 6.0L can cost you a lot of money unless you do the easy types of things yourself. IMO many dealerships take advantage of people simply because of the 6.0L reputation. Being out of town without tools stinks for sure, but I'd go buy cheap tools to remove the batteries so you could have them tested yourself. Same for changing fuel filters, although that lower filter can be a PIB - especially in a parking lot in the cold!

Anyway - please post a conclusion.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Just post it here and a moderator can help you.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ended up just being the alternator. And the first shop it went to they didn't know what they were doing and bought the wrong one. Luckily I only paid them $40 and got to return all the wrong parts they bought me. Took it to another shop and they bought the right one for me. Thank God for youtube, changed it myself in the hotel parking lot
Thanks for everyone's help again! Gonna start reading this forum some more cause I got a lot to learn!
 

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Just for future reference, once a vehicle is running, the alternator is supplying all of the electrical power to run it. There's no chance a bad battery will stall a car. You can even disconnect the battery and the thing will still run.

So you brought the truck with a slow crank to a shop and they couldn't figure out what was wrong with it?
 
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