Ford Power Stroke Nation banner
21 - 38 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I mentioned Archoil AR 9100 in an earlier post.

There are lots of threads on fabricating a fuel pressure gauge. Not hard to do. Look them up. The only other option is to take it in - a dealership has the tools to check fuel pressure.

Post videos on YouTube and then post the link in the forum.

I feel like your answer is somewhere in the possibilities that I have already mentioned and you are just going to have to roll up your sleeves and eliminate possibilities one-by-one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Uhmm - I posted how you can get cheaper prices over on TDS:

For example - the 04.5 ICP sensor is part number 4C3Z-9F838-A and it lists for $167.15. The On-Line dealership "AutoNation White Bear Lake" has it for $120.35. You can probably get it locally through FordParts.com for that AND save the shipping. The lowest I have seen for it is around $113.

The IPR valve is part # 3C3Z-9C968-AA. It lists for $314.65. Should be able to get it for around $210.


One thing you can do is monitor ICP pressure, ICP sensor volts, IPR % duty cycle, and ICP desired. When the engine performance starts acting up, maybe you can see fluctuations in SOME of those PIDs.

I also advised you to wiggle wires and see if you could MAKE IT act up.

After all, you did say that running it with an unplugged ICP sensor did seem to help at first. That was the first indication of an improvement that you posted.
I pulled the IAT sensor, it was dirty so I cleaned it with brake cleaner! Waited until it fully dried and then put it back in, I also bought some hot shot stiction stuff from advanced while I was getting brake cleaner! Treats 11 quarts!

so then I decided to go for a drive and for all about 5 minutes it was beautiful! Nice shifts and great power! Then I turned around and it wasn’t really doing anything bad until I pulled back into the driveway and same issue all over again! I was also pulling up the hill and HUGE LACK OF POWER!

Back to the sensor, Pulled it off while it was running and it didn’t run good, my sensor was reading and craxy number like 65,462 when it was 82!

I also pulled ICP while it was running and it made it run worse as well! If I need to post a vid of the unplug of IAT I can!

Would my FICM cause this?!? Now I’m not 100% that I had the volt meter on correctly but I did see 47.5 volts without key on! Didn’t get cranking yet! Kids are asleep andthis Truck wakes up the whole house!
 

·
"resident smarty pants"
Joined
·
5,271 Posts
Brake cleaner is notorious for damaging sensors.

On IAT1 you need to use only an electronics cleaner. Sounds like you need a new sensor.

Your engine holds 18 quarts of oil btw (Navistar even states 19 IIRC). So you need more Hot Shots. Don't over fill the crankcase. I did not suggest Hot Shots because you have to drain oil out to make room for all of it. I don't like that.

Sure sounds like a harness issue. Hard to find them unless a code points the way.

Electrical issues take methodical troubleshooting and even then sometimes people have to start taking apart harnesses. Hopefully someone else can keep you going, or ultimately some repairs require a shop. I think my ideas/suggestion bank is empty.
 

·
"resident smarty pants"
Joined
·
5,271 Posts
14/15 qts is the drain-and-fill capacity. The entire volume of oil in the engine is apprx. 18 quarts. That is stated in the manuals if you have them.

If you are treating the oil for the first time you need to add enough for the ENTIRE volume since it is a well mixed system. After that you can treat it for the drain-and-fill amount.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
14/15 qts is the fill capacity. The entire volume of oil in the engine is apprx. 18 quarts. That is stated in the manuals if you have them.

If you are treating the oil for the first time you need to add enough for the ENTIRE volume since it is a well mixed system. After that you can treat it for the drain-and-fill amount.
Good to know!!! Guess ill get another bottle! Seemed to help a little at first but then it did the issue all over again! I guess im just gonna start troubleshooting! Going to test the FICM tonight and double check voltage to clear that out too! If thats good then im leaning towards an injector and if thats the case then im just going to take to dealer!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
14/15 qts is the drain-and-fill capacity. The entire volume of oil in the engine is apprx. 18 quarts. That is stated in the manuals if you have them.

If you are treating the oil for the first time you need to add enough for the ENTIRE volume since it is a well mixed system. After that you can treat it for the drain-and-fill amount.
WAnted to throw up a little Update!!!

I was messing around with the EBP sensor, unplugged it a couple of time and made sure it clicked back in and then got a no start, only thing i messed with was TPS nad EBP, i noticed on the TPS there was oil in the sensor clip, kinda weird! Cleaned it out and all was good! Cranked it back up and went down the road...... Once again pulling into the drive way it completely died going up a slight incline this time! So then it wouldnt crank back up until i unplugged the EBP sensor and plugged it back in and then i could atleast make it the 20ft back into my drive! New part in the mail as we speak! @bismic1Have youheard of this being an issue before that would cause all my problems??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
@bismic1 Hey man I dropped the issue for a couple weeks, here’s what I noticed!

went out to try and crank and nothing! First off it was dead for whatever reason, then got the batteries back up to normal and it would crank and crank and crank!
I also had a code for crankshaft circuit open. Wiggled the wiring harnass around multiple times and BOOM went to running again! I think I have found the issue and it would make sense since the guy popped 500psi of oil all over everything! What you think? Fordparts.com sell good ones you think? And should I be worried about which harnass since I’m a late 04 model?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Although I will say due to further testing that I revved it up to maybe like 3500 rpm and let it drop back down and now it’s doing that loping sound out of the exhaust, wiggled wires around while it did it and no change? Hmm….
 

·
"resident smarty pants"
Joined
·
5,271 Posts
It could be that much of the engine harness is bad from age and heat, or it could simply be at one connector. It would be worth identifying it since the engine harness is very expensive.

Sounds like the EBP connector and wiring might be a place to start as mentioned earlier. You may need to peel back insulation to find a wiring issue. Also the wiring that runs above the turbo can sometimes be an issue if the plastic tray is bad and does not keep the wires far enough away from the turbo heat.

EBP connector part number - 5C3Z-12224-A

I don't know why you would have oil on the TPS connector. Are you sure it was the TPS connector?

There are more "common" areas for wiring failure and chafing. I'll post some more potential chafe locations a little later.

Lots of people seem to ignore glow plug issues, but they can impact starting as well. You could have individual plug issues or you could have a GPCM issue, or both.
 

·
"resident smarty pants"
Joined
·
5,271 Posts
Wire Chafing Locations (Closely inspect wiring when you have injector DTCs):
Upper left valve cover or valve cover stud near the FICM (harness).​
Left front valve cover hold down bolts/studs. Front left of intake manifold near breather tube and air inlet duct​
CKP wiring near A/C compressor and belt tensioner​
CMP wire can get pinched in between the intake manifold and the radiator hose port on the front cover.​
Idler pulley under the thermostat (wiring routed around the power steering pump). The CMP sensor wiring is in this "bundle", and a chafe here can throw a P0341 CMP electrical code. The wiring to the CMP is routed around the power steering pump.​
Exhaust Pressure (EP) sensor bracket at thermostat housing​
Right valve cover at glow plug control module (GPCM) and around the glow plug relay bracket.​
Front left of intake manifold near breather tube and air inlet duct. Under the Air Filter canister - harness chafe's on a stud when pinched by the air filter case. Corner of the valve cover. Or the intake manifold bolts where the harness routes under the air intake hose.​
Accelerator Pedal pivot point (under dash) at steering column - adjustable pedals only. Also, near the steering column, where it goes through the firewall.​
PCM harness at battery box, or at/near the PCM​
PCM harness near the relay box brackets at the left rear corner of the engine compartment.​
Check injector harnesses and FICM harness for backed out or bent pins or bad wiring​
12A581 harness (engine harness that goes across the back of the engine compartment, over the turbo, in the plastic harness tray). The plastic tray gets brittle and fails. When it does, the tray droops and the wires can get too close to the hot turbo.​
IPR harness - near rear intake stud​
Wiring to #5 injector. (3rd back passenger side) the heater hose clamp rubs through on the early built units.​
On Econolines, also inspect at the top edge of the computer, along the oil dipstick tube bracket and auxiliary A/C lines.​
Check near C145 which is near the fire wall on the drivers side, not far from the BJB. Also 14A067 (BJB) wiring, circuit 1044 (WH/YE wire) under the BJB (left rear corner of engine compartment).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
It could be that much of the engine harness is bad from age and heat, or it could simply be at one connector. It would be worth identifying it since the engine harness is very expensive.

Sounds like the EBP connector and wiring might be a place to start as mentioned earlier. You may need to peel back insulation to find a wiring issue. Also the wiring that runs above the turbo can sometimes be an issue if the plastic tray is bad and does not keep the wires far enough away from the turbo heat.

EBP connector part number - 5C3Z-12224-A

I don't know why you would have oil on the TPS connector. Are you sure it was the TPS connector?

There are more "common" areas for wiring failure and chafing. I'll post some more potential chafe locations a little later.

Lots of people seem to ignore glow plug issues, but they can impact starting as well. You could have individual plug issues or you could have a GPCM issue, or both.
I’m not entirely sure that it was on the TPS sensor but it’s a code that popped up! Read on it for a little bit and then they said try wiggling the wires so I did and that’s when it started!
I think I’m having separate issues or if it’s what causing the weird rough loping idle when I take it 2 miles down the road! Or when I stomp on it a little and it causes the same issue and doesn’t return back to normal until cooled down! I’m gonna go through that other list you gave me too! Start checking things off!
mom jyst hoping that if it is the wiring harnass that atleast I’ll know what the issue is! That way I can stop chasing my tail and drive it finally!
 

·
"resident smarty pants"
Joined
·
5,271 Posts
The TPS, or throttle position sensor, is the accelerator pedal, and if you wiggled wires under the hood, that might not have affected that specific component. You would have to have been reaching close to the fire wall on the drivers side and wiggling wires there to affect the TPS I would think.

The TPS wiring issues are usually near the accelerator pedal itself, or where it goes through the firewall.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 ·
The TPS, or throttle position sensor, is the accelerator pedal, and if you wiggled wires under the hood, that might not have affected that specific component. You would have to have been reaching close to the fire wall on the drivers side and wiggling wires there to affect the TPS I would think.

The TPS wiring issues are usually near the accelerator pedal itself, or where it goes through the firewall.
Ok then the one I’m referring to is where the air pipe on the driver side connects to the throttle body! The wire that connects into that is where I noticed it would have a rougher/ missing idle! But again this guy previously has had oil sitting everywhere on this motor and I’m not surprised that it would have ruined that harnass and I don’t know about just doing a patch job on every little connector that throws a code! Although in the meantime wouldn’t be a bad idea if I could reconnect it! Hopefully that being the problem solver! I feel like if that connection was going in and out that it would just be super unresponsive (which it is after warm up and a drive) or jumpy reflecting the inability to read consistent!
 
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
Top