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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all. Wealth of knowledge in these forums. Which I have consumed since I first got my truck running 2 years ago. Injectors back then.

2003 Ford F250 6.0 4x4 Crew Cab 235,000 miles

So after a 4000 mile round trip. On the way back I started to feel a slight miss during light acceleration under load, 60-70mph.

Got home. Hell froze over here. Plugged the oil heater in for 20 minutes. Fired up just fine. Little trip to the store. Idled in the parking lot for 20 min. Got on the road, accelerated just fine. Turned in to the neighborhood and accelerated around the turn. Died like the light switch had shut off. No bucking or missing, just turned off while accelerating.

Checked fuel in case of stuck gauge. Fuel filters looked as good as when I installed them. Secondary filter bowl is full.

Changed oil. Replaced oil filter. LPOP is filling the oil filter canister.

Using OBDLink MX and Forscan these are my results:
- FICM Sync good. Cam / Crank Sensor check

- 49V on FICM while Cranking.

- IPR 15% key on / 85% while cranking.

- ICP only reading 250 ~ 300 psi. (PCM desired 1900 psi)

History of truck:
- Does not like being shut off for an hour or so and then trying to restart, long cranks to fire. But always fires.

- MOST NOTICEABLE: Small oil leak coming from the rear top of engine, coming down both sides of bell housing. When I left the store parking lot the day it died, that oil leak had become dime size to pancake size.

After checking readings with ForScan I performed the following:
- Disconnected ICP sensor (sensor connector did have oil on it)

- Repaired damaged IPR valve pigtail connector (bare copper on wires at connector)

New Readings on ForScan with ICP Sensor disconnected:
- ICP 2179 psi (desired 2179 psi)

- IPR 66%

Next I will be pulling the IPR valve to check the screen and actuate the plunger to see if it is stuck.

Question: I know the snap on fitting from the HPOP tube on an 03' is a failure point. How do I know if HPOP is actually bad or if the fittings are just leaking all over the place?

Thanks for any input!
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Actually the early snap-to-connect fitting is pretty good on the early trucks. It is more likely to be the HPOP if it isn't the IPR valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's good to know, thanks. The tube is like a 5 day wait. I can have the pump today with the o-rings.

Waiting on the IPR socket to arrive this morning. Ordered a screen and o-ring kit with it.

Two questions: Are there any other seals that I will need to replace while digging in to the pump? When the pump itself fails, does it normally leak as a result?
 

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Actually the early snap-to-connect fitting is pretty good on the early trucks. It is more likely to be the HPOP if it isn't the IPR valve.
This ^

In my 04 I actually had that J-tube not snapped into place....just kinda loose fitting and sitting there, and yet it still ran just fine,
 

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Discussion Starter #5
On your J-tube, was there a noticeable oil leak that you were having?

Thanks for the additional info.

I removed the IPR valve and the screen looked fine. It was the reinforced style of screen, not original. So I assume someone has been in there before.

I applied +12V and -12V to the pins on the IPR valve and expected to hear an audible click. But nothing happened. I blew air through it while applying 12V and can't really tell the difference. Not quite sure how to bench test it? Possible ohm test, 5-6 ohms?

From what I understand, these valves rarely go bad without some kind of interference from debris puncturing the screen. I have also read that they do not produce an audible click like expected.

Going to assume the IPR is fine. Hate to assume, but my gut is telling me HPOP from what you guys have said and researching. Going to open it up today and visually inspect the pump, check where this ball bearing is located, as well as air test.
 

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The IPR valves occasionally fail electrically. If it doesn't move with voltage applied, then it is bad. Usually the "click" you hear is when you close it WHILE air is being applied. The valve closing (if it does) will stop the sound of the air flow.

Best bet is probably to remove the valve and watch it move.

IMO if you install another OEM pump or a regular "parts store" pump, you are taking a gamble of being back into it not far down the road. Most people don't seem to have the $900 for the DieselSite Adrenaline pump, but it is worth it. It is only $300 more ...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I hooked up shop air to the IPR valve at 120psi for a definitive test. (attached picture)

Test example of an IPR valve actuating properly on YouTube: youtube.com/watch?v=5enzBhIEfWA

The valve is normally open with no voltage and it is supposed to be closed when 12V applied. I had absolutely no change, so the valve is either jammed open or not operational. This is also where the melted pigtail wires were, which I replaced when I started this diagnostic. Hmmmm? Starting to see a pattern.

It would make sense if the IPR valve is stuck completely open. I can only achieve 250-300psi of oil pressure. Correct? OR would a completely open valve still allow the truck to have above 500psi from the HPOP?
 

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On your J-tube, was there a noticeable oil leak that you were having?
I was having a high pressure leak somewhere and I couldn't figure it out for the life of me, so I replaced all the o-rings. Once I did that, I found a gurgle coming out of the oil filter housing, which indicated the pump was bad. I found the odd j-tube when I pulled the pump. It wasn't giving me a problem, so I re-installed it. It's been on for about 60k miles since I changed the pump and hasn't given me an issue yet (knock on wood).
 

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Check fuse 14 I believe under driver side under steering wheel mine did same thing an could not get injectors to do the pre start buzz test 04 F350 6.0 4x4.
 

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But check them all for best results this happened like over a yr ago an my memory could be not right but was a fuse 20 amp or 25 amp. To this day is working like a charm.
 
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