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Hey guys, I'm posting this up for my buddy. I just copied and pasted his post from another forum, he said once it's warmed up it doesn't seem to die and runs just fine. He just replaced the CPS, We both thought for sure that was the problem. Any help is appreciated.

02 F250 won't stay running

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Excuse me for this being my first post. I have been trying to diagnose this issue for over a week.

Its a 2002 F-250 with a 7.3L 4x4 Crew Cab with 273k miles. It has a 6 position TS performance chip.

We have had an intermittent issue with the power windows not always wanting to work and the radio doesn't always have power right away when you start it. I believe this to be a VSM issue.

Last week I attempted to start it (truck no longer has DD duties so it doesn't get driven that much anymore) so I could get my trailer out and it fired right up, then immediately shut off. It did this a few more times. While waiting for the glow plug light to go out during one of the starts all of the needles on the gauges spiked then returned to zero. First and only time I have seen it do this. I got it to stay running by flipping my chip to high idle after it started, after it warmed up a couple min it would idle normally. It sat a couple days and then had the same issue. Sat another day and the high idle trick quit working. Gave the VSM a couple love taps and she fires up and idles.

I'm confused and need to have it in a condition that I'm not afraid to put the wife and kids in it and send them down the road. Wife uses the truck when roads get crappy and may need 4wd.

Can the VSM cause the engine to shut down?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

-Luke
 

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Hi Luke,
Don't wanna seem like a total idiot but am kinda new to the diesel topics and forums but what is a "VSM"
Thanks,
yours true dummy for diesels
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dose the truck have an exhaust back pressure valve
Yes, I believe it does. Are you thinking that maybe it's sticking closed until warmed up chocking it out? The odd thing is that it just shuts off like someone turned the key off. Doesn't stumble or anything just shuts off.
 

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Bobs 7.3
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vsm controls windows,door locks,radio power,dome light but wont shut the truck off or cause it to stall. disconnect the chip (after unhooking the batteries both power n ground on both) then try the truck and see if its normal. If its really cold you could have fuel starting to gel. Try plugging it in if under 30 degrees for 5 hrs and see if its better. Are both batteries in good known condition (both disconnected and load tested individually as weak batteries wont run the electronics right) as well as fuel filter, and oil reasonably changed and full?
 

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Bobs 7.3
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you can actually unplug the vsm and drive the truck all you want if you dont mind not having a radio,windows, dome light,or power locks. Nothing to do with the engine
 

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We actually just keep the truck plugged in because we never know when we are going to use it. Both batteries are about 2 years old and the oil and fuel filter were changed less than 4k miles ago. We usually do them every 5k and always use Rotella.

I had to move it yesterday in order to get the whole driveway shovelled easily and it fired right up and idled fine. I had verified the battery connections before but I am going to pull the terminal and clean them. I will also pull the chip and check those connections.

It was suggested to me that the Injectior control module (idm) could be going bad. Did Ford have a problem with these on the 7.3?
 

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yes, take it off and shake it and see if you hear water in there, they are prone to that, but I'd say it would be throwing codes then, no codes?
 

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Bobs 7.3
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My batteries were only 2 years old when I just load tested one and it was weak so I replaced. Just make sure they load test good. Try switching to t6 5w-40 rotella as its helped mine in cold starts alot as my injectors are getting worn some and it can be ran all year long. Faster starting in cold and better mpg.
 

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My batteries were only 2 years old when I just load tested one and it was weak so I replaced. Just make sure they load test good. Try switching to t6 5w-40 rotella as its helped mine in cold starts alot as my injectors are getting worn some and it can be ran all year long. Faster starting in cold and better mpg.
I'm getting ready to go out and play with this thing for a bit. I have thought about switching to 5w-40 but since the truck lost its daily driver duties it really is only used for hauling and towing or when the wife wants to get out and "stroke it". Its usually towing around 7k so I didn't want to go with a lighter weight oil.
 

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Think I solved the mystery now. There is a small junction box on the driver side inner fender just behind the air box. The cables on both sides were corroded so bad that when I touched them they just fell apart. The side from the battery I can repair with a new end but the side that runs through the firewall and to the fuse box has 2 fuseable links right up against the terminal so I just ordered a new cable from rock auto for $17 The junction block was also bad and I couldn't find a part number so I sourced one from a dealer for $28. It will be in tomorrow. When I had pulled the battery cables the positive on the passenger side also had a crack in it. I ordered the battery cable from rock auto while I was at it for $62. I probably could have built a new cable cheaper but I really don't like the parts store terminals and this will get it done fastest anyway.

I hope this fixes things but I want to say thanks to everyone for all of the feedback.
 

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Think I solved the mystery now. There is a small junction box on the driver side inner fender just behind the air box. The cables on both sides were corroded so bad that when I touched them they just fell apart. The side from the battery I can repair with a new end but the side that runs through the firewall and to the fuse box has 2 fuseable links right up against the terminal so I just ordered a new cable from rock auto for $17 The junction block was also bad and I couldn't find a part number so I sourced one from a dealer for $28. It will be in tomorrow. When I had pulled the battery cables the positive on the passenger side also had a crack in it. I ordered the battery cable from rock auto while I was at it for $62. I probably could have built a new cable cheaper but I really don't like the parts store terminals and this will get it done fastest anyway.

I hope this fixes things but I want to say thanks to everyone for all of the feedback.
had the exact same thing happen to me except I fix mine without having to order anything
 

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it is a pita to strip those wires especially if you don't have a wire cutter and just using a knife I sliced the hell out of my thumb doing that. that thing supplies all power to the inside of the cab so if it breaks you get nothing at all
 
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