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Hello. I’m new to this forum but not new to my 02’ F250 SD 7.3L crewcab p/u.

Last week I had a situation where I had been driving from retailer to hardware and finally the driveway of a local market when I believe I took my foot off the accelerator and the motor just died.

I coasted into a spot where I tried to start it... it cranks, no start. I had replaced a CPS in it and it seemed to have been acting in similar fashion... so I checked my issue to that. When the tow truck arrived... I decided to try the ignition again... and it started. I had it towed home because I teally didn’t want it stranded again. Ordered two Motorcraft CPS’s... installed one three days later when it arrived... and normal start. No CEL’s to speak of.

The next day I load the vehicle up to go to a landfill. I drove about six miles and the engine cut out again... and luckily I coasted off the hwy. I figured “perhaps a bad CPS out of the bag?” and replaced the one with another on the side of the road. Try to crank... it starts. Fantastic.

I drive for about five more miles and it cuts out again.

What are the odds of a second defective CPS? My wife picks me up and we go to a parts store where I purchase my third, install it roadside, and the truck starts right up.

I drive about two miles, slow to make a turn on a stop, navigate that well... proceed on... no issues with acceleration.... and right before another stop I lift my foot off the throttle to stop... and it goes dead again. I coast to the side and call another tow.

In the three hour interim of waiting for a tow... I search causes.

My model does have the adjustable brake/accel pedal assembly.

I have read this could be a culprit from what I understand,.. but I haven’t been able to find too much info on the synptoms leading up to failure.

It’s a pricy part even aftermarket.

My truck is bone stock. I have not experienced any issues with acceleration glitches. Batteries are about three years old. The old CPS was an International model compatible... replaced about 6 years ago, but I suspect now it may have been fine before I replaced it this week with the two Motorcraft and one aftermarket. The vehicle has about 214k miles. Last year I had a hardline fuel leak which I replaced... fuel had leaked into the engine valley.

To add - When the towtruck showed up again... I was able to start the vehicle like nothing happened.... it started again no problem when it was delivered and I drove it up on my driveway.

Like mentioned above... my suspicion is the adjustable assembly... but I was wondering if there are any alternate considerations I should look into before I purchase that just under $500 part.

Thanks much in advance for your time and consideration.
 

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I had an issue similar to yours once. Everytime I coasted to a stop. When the torque converter would unlock, the motor would fall below idle and try to compensate but fail to and die. ended up being the ICP sensor. I believe it was reading a higher pressure than it was actually seeing. Try unplugging the sensor and driving around for a bit or you can plug into the OBD2 and see what the PCM is registering if you don't want to worry about the tow.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had an issue similar to yours once. Everytime I coasted to a stop. When the torque converter would unlock, the motor would fall below idle and try to compensate but fail to and die. ended up being the ICP sensor. I believe it was reading a higher pressure than it was actually seeing. Try unplugging the sensor and driving around for a bit or you can plug into the OBD2 and see what the PCM is registering if you don't want to worry about the tow.
Will try that TST1... thanks for the reply.
 

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There is no throttle position sensor. Only an accelerator petal sensor and if that were to go out the truck would still idle just fine. Someone else mentioned having a bad ICP in another thread not too long ago. When you unplug the sensor the PCM will default to a table look up for the ICP pressure. The truck will not run great, but it should stay running if the ICP is the problem. The sensors do fail.

Cj
 

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I wouldn't rule it out, it could be bad connection to the TPS too. I don't know what the programmed failsafe would be if the PCM lost all feedback from the TPS. Although, I do know when the IVS switch feedback wire breaks, the truck will only idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Checked ICP... it definitely had oil where the harness connects, very wet. I replaced the ICP today, got it to operational temperature, drove it in the neighborhood for about 10 mins, drove back up the driveway letting it idle, grabbed the wallet and drove down my street where the engine cut out dead three houses away.

Any suggestions on what to check for next?

(When the sensor was replaced, I had cleaned the harness connector socket with electric cleaner, let it dry.... I don’t think there was oil residue. Will check OBD to see if a code was thrown, which before the change there was none)
 

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What brand of ICP did you buy? The non-Ford units are known to be sketchy... Have you tried unplugging the ICP and driving the truck around to see what happens?
 

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Ford... straight from the dealer. And no, CJ... i haven’t driven with the connector off yet (I just reread your post above suggesting so. Almost afraid to, but I’ll give it a go.
 

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I took the ICP connector off - engine started fine, idled fine - threw P1280 code... makes sense. I didn’t drive as it’s late and I didn’t want to hassle limping a truck home this evening. Turned off vehicle, ignition on, replaced ICP connector, I cleared code, ignition on... no CEL, no codes.
 

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Ya, at this point I think we will need to rely on what the computer is seeing\doing. I really feel you have a loose connection somewhere. The only things I can think of that will shut down an engine are low battery voltage, bad connection to the IPR or malfunctioning IPR, IDM issues and CPS issues. Do you have a way to monitor while on a drive?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
This is new ground for me - but I have a neighbor who has a scanning laptop and he’s an experienced diesel tech of sorts. I’ve asked him to see if he could plug his computer in this evening.

Q: For my knowledge, will IPR performance showcase on scanning results? Enough to signify enough the need to replace it? (Mine is stock, original to the vehicle).
 

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You should be able to see the IPR performance well enough.. As I look at the graphs of runs that I have captured on my truck you have to read in between the lines a bit.. The IPR values are in reality a commanded PWM that is going to the IPR solenoid. The ICP should closely follow the "commanded" IPR value - IE. When you hit the go petal the PCM is going to raise the pressure by driving the IPR harder (higher %), at the same time you should start to see increasing pressures via the ICP. If there is a long lag between the two then you need find out why - and there are a number of possibilities (HPOP weak or leaking, leaks around injectors, IPR is not responding mechanically/or electrically (solenoid is going out).

Cj
 

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I had a similar issue where the truck would just die and crank but no start. Once the truck cooled down for 10-15 minutes it would start back up and be fine. It was not as frequent as yours but it happened five times over three week period. I tried various things as you have but the final fix was replacing the IPR solenoid. My brother had a spare IPR valve and I switch just the solenoid and I haven't had the issue again. That was about a 2 years ago.
 

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Hello. I’m new to this forum but not new to my 02’ F250 SD 7.3L crewcab p/u.

Last week I had a situation where I had been driving from retailer to hardware and finally the driveway of a local market when I believe I took my foot off the accelerator and the motor just died.

I coasted into a spot where I tried to start it... it cranks, no start. I had replaced a CPS in it and it seemed to have been acting in similar fashion... so I checked my issue to that. When the tow truck arrived... I decided to try the ignition again... and it started. I had it towed home because I teally didn’t want it stranded again. Ordered two Motorcraft CPS’s... installed one three days later when it arrived... and normal start. No CEL’s to speak of.

The next day I load the vehicle up to go to a landfill. I drove about six miles and the engine cut out again... and luckily I coasted off the hwy. I figured “perhaps a bad CPS out of the bag?” and replaced the one with another on the side of the road. Try to crank... it starts. Fantastic.

I drive for about five more miles and it cuts out again.

What are the odds of a second defective CPS? My wife picks me up and we go to a parts store where I purchase my third, install it roadside, and the truck starts right up.

I drive about two miles, slow to make a turn on a stop, navigate that well... proceed on... no issues with acceleration.... and right before another stop I lift my foot off the throttle to stop... and it goes dead again. I coast to the side and call another tow.

In the three hour interim of waiting for a tow... I search causes.

My model does have the adjustable brake/accel pedal assembly.

I have read this could be a culprit from what I understand,.. but I haven’t been able to find too much info on the synptoms leading up to failure.

It’s a pricy part even aftermarket.

My truck is bone stock. I have not experienced any issues with acceleration glitches. Batteries are about three years old. The old CPS was an International model compatible... replaced about 6 years ago, but I suspect now it may have been fine before I replaced it this week with the two Motorcraft and one aftermarket. The vehicle has about 214k miles. Last year I had a hardline fuel leak which I replaced... fuel had leaked into the engine valley.

To add - When the towtruck showed up again... I was able to start the vehicle like nothing happened.... it started again no problem when it was delivered and I drove it up on my driveway.

Like mentioned above... my suspicion is the adjustable assembly... but I was wondering if there are any alternate considerations I should look into before I purchase that just under $500 part.

Thanks much in advance for your time and consideration.
same issues with mine after replacing multiple parts found the main connection block located on mounted on driver side valve cover was slightly corroded.......cleaned with eletronic contact cleaner....wala fixed!!!!
 

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Hello. I’m new to this forum but not new to my 02’ F250 SD 7.3L crewcab p/u.

Last week I had a situation where I had been driving from retailer to hardware and finally the driveway of a local market when I believe I took my foot off the accelerator and the motor just died.

I coasted into a spot where I tried to start it... it cranks, no start. I had replaced a CPS in it and it seemed to have been acting in similar fashion... so I checked my issue to that. When the tow truck arrived... I decided to try the ignition again... and it started. I had it towed home because I teally didn’t want it stranded again. Ordered two Motorcraft CPS’s... installed one three days later when it arrived... and normal start. No CEL’s to speak of.

The next day I load the vehicle up to go to a landfill. I drove about six miles and the engine cut out again... and luckily I coasted off the hwy. I figured “perhaps a bad CPS out of the bag?” and replaced the one with another on the side of the road. Try to crank... it starts. Fantastic.

I drive for about five more miles and it cuts out again.

What are the odds of a second defective CPS? My wife picks me up and we go to a parts store where I purchase my third, install it roadside, and the truck starts right up.

I drive about two miles, slow to make a turn on a stop, navigate that well... proceed on... no issues with acceleration.... and right before another stop I lift my foot off the throttle to stop... and it goes dead again. I coast to the side and call another tow.

In the three hour interim of waiting for a tow... I search causes.

My model does have the adjustable brake/accel pedal assembly.

I have read this could be a culprit from what I understand,.. but I haven’t been able to find too much info on the synptoms leading up to failure.

It’s a pricy part even aftermarket.

My truck is bone stock. I have not experienced any issues with acceleration glitches. Batteries are about three years old. The old CPS was an International model compatible... replaced about 6 years ago, but I suspect now it may have been fine before I replaced it this week with the two Motorcraft and one aftermarket. The vehicle has about 214k miles. Last year I had a hardline fuel leak which I replaced... fuel had leaked into the engine valley.

To add - When the towtruck showed up again... I was able to start the vehicle like nothing happened.... it started again no problem when it was delivered and I drove it up on my driveway.

Like mentioned above... my suspicion is the adjustable assembly... but I was wondering if there are any alternate considerations I should look into before I purchase that just under $500 part.

Thanks much in advance for your time and consideration.
I had a similar problem with my 2006 6.0. It would choke down and stall while driving. Nothing would start it until about an hour wait. After replacing sensors etc. I finally found someone with a similar symptom and said to pull and drain the fuel tank, then look at the pick-up tube and strainer. Well someone sometime replaced it with a piece of neoprene tubing which began to disintegrate. There was also no strainer basket.The pieces float around and eventually find its way up the tube and starve the fuel. After about an hour they would drop out of the tube and it would start again.
I was really fortunate to find someone that ran into this before. Probably saved me a lot of money. It’s been running great since then.
Good Luck
 

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My IPR would do that. Wouldn't start till it cooled a bit, then only ran a few miles until it got warm. First time I was at a retailer, came out and it didn't want to start. Checking things and such took maybe 30 additional minutes and it finally started. Ran fine..... for a while. Days or a week later, going to work, cruising down the highway, it dies. Of course won't start immediately. Had one of my guys come get me. Went back at lunch and it started and I made it to the office. On the way home, same thing. Called tow truck. Replaced IPR, no trouble since. Always use OEM parts.
 
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