[RTJ1S]

I just registered here. I have been lurking around this site, as well as others, some of which I am also a member and have asked about this issue.

Anyways, I have a 2000 F250, 6sp, 7.3L. I towed a trailer about 350 miles with no issues, stopped, came back 20 min later (engine still warmed up) and truck started, but ran very badly, stalled, now it will not start. It is not the batteries. I replaced the CPS (autozone special -- only parts store close to where I broke down) towed vehicle to my garage and have discovered:

ICP sensor indicates up to 3.5V while cranking, no oil inside sensor.

GPR relay gets very hot (one ordered from International, not here yet) I dont really think this is my real problem because the issue started while the engine was at full operating temp.

Cannot find any shorted, chaffed, broken wires, no blown fuses, no codes.

Fuel Bowl fills easily with fuel, new fuel filter prior to the 350 mile pull, I do not have the pressure gauge adapter (next in line after truck is running) but I have connected my pressure gauge directly to the fuel pump and it shows over 100 psi. Of course this does not account for any possible leaks/losses further down the line (toward the engine)

Pulled both valve covers, driver side harness partially disconnected, reconnected, performed the .25 cent trick. Assumed the harness had possibly fried the IDM. Pulled IDM, tested harness, all injector harness connections are around 3.2 ohms.

Talked my buddy at local parts store into letting me try a replacement IDM (cardone part) to rule out this issue. Still did not start.

Although ICP sensor indicated no issue and is not full of oil, I disconnected it and truck will not start.

I am now thinking it could be the IPR valve, but at this rate, I am starting to feel like I am becoming a parts changer, rather than a technician. Any ideas?

 

[Arisley]

First, welcome to the Nation.
Any CEL lights. Big advantage if you get a code.
If you don't have a scanner, where are you. There might be a member right around the corner with a scanner to help you out. We live for this stuff.

No codes sometimes means no fuel. One of the few things the PCM does not monitor. If you connect the end of the drain tube to a piece of hose, stick the hose in a bucket,open the drain valve turn the key on, you should pump around a quart in fifteen seconds. Down and dirty fuel pressure check.

 

[RTJ1S]

Thanks for the tip on fuel pressure. I am in Lawton Oklahoma. If there is anyone who is nearby, it would be nice. Just moved here from FT Riley, KS; that is the 350 mile trip I made. Military.

I am getting fuel to the filter assy, but that is no guarentee that it's enough pressure.

Anyone know if I would be wasting my time and money going with the IPR valve? I dont know of any good way to test it prior to replacement. That is an expensive shot in the dark.

 

[Arisley]

New Page 0

Good write up on IPR cleaning. If you have a deepwell socket that will fit. Put the socket on first. You should be able to barely grab it with the ratchet. You can try cleaning it first before just throwing money at it.

 

[RTJ1S]

thanks for sending that link. I had looked around for something like this but could not find it.

 

[Arisley]

No problem. It comes from this page. Lots of really good stuff there.

Roadside Help Network - Guides, Maintenance Mods

 

[RTJ1S]

Update: I removed the IPR, found broken O ring (the flat black one near the tip) Cleaned sensor anyways, as directed in the link. reassembled, installed a viton o ring that fits really well (just to see if it would start so I would have the "smoking gun") Installed IPR, nothing. Same as before, spins wont start. Almost ready to send to the dealer rather than continuing to spend money, make mess and stress myself out over this thing.

As a note, the HPOP did not leak oil down, truck did not have any issues prior to this. Just out of the blue.

 

[RTJ1S]

Thanks again to all that have helped. Also, I received alot of info from Swamps Diesel, they were more than generous with thier time. I have to admit that this has been quite a learning experience about the PSD that will leave me less intimidated when popping the hood, but, its going to the dealer in the morning. I have alot of other things to do that dont involve stressing out over this ride. I will keep you posted as to what they say. If its something big or very expensive, I may have quite the parts vehicle, as this is a basic ride, not really worth many expensive repairs

 

[Greeny]

There are two fuel plugs on the ends of each head, one behind the alternator bracket(DS) and the other in the back of passenger side head. They can be removed with a 1/4" ratchet by itself. From underneath with your feet facing front of vehicle shine flashlight up back of head, you'll see the plug. I would further rule out fuel concerns by removing this plug a covering the area with a throw away towel and cycle key on to make sure fuel is getting to the heads. Inspect this plug while its off and make sure it's not clogged.

 

[tbolt]

Check both batteries individually. My friend had 1 go bad, the thing would crank but not fire. Just a thought.

 

[RTJ1S]

Update:
I took the truck to the ford dealership here in Lawton. They have run multiple tests, verified the PCM, IDM, wiring, fuel pressure, IPR, ICP, fuel quality etc...
Their primary diesel tech spent 7 hours trying to diagnose this issue to no avail. Now, they are saying they want to run a manual compression test to verify compression/leak down on the cylinders. I know how to do this, but do not have the tools. They want 450 (plus the 100 for diagnosis) for a total of $550 upon completion. They offer that if they do not find any compression related issue, they will eat the cost (minus the diagnosis fee).

I feel stuck between a rock and a hard place. I could tow it back home ($50) after paying the diagnosis fee (100) just to end up in the same situation I was in initially. Then, purchase the compression tester and adapter (approx 65) and run the test myself. Of course I would then own a compression tester, so it would be investing in myself. Or I could take a gamble and have them test it. I dont think its compression related, but if I knew everything, I would be writing the solution right now.

Anyone have .02 cents to add. BTW the batteries have been checked multiple times, individually.

 

[RTJ1S]

Just another approach, If I do test the compression; assuming it is fine, I would lean toward possible mechanical breakdown in the injectors. First, given the situation and the fact that it has passed the "buzz test" does that make sense. Also, does anyone know of a company that I could send the injectors to, in order to have them checked, prior to replacement. Such as an actual function test, not just whether or not it passes the computer test.

 

[Greeny]

I feel for you brother, there are a couple of sponsors on here that rebuild injectors, haven't gone that route yet but know this to be true. They can do a flow test for you or upgrade you to something a little better since you have them out. You might try to post on the emergency 911 section to find someone close to OK that could give you a hand, there are alot of extremely smart guys on here just probably not looking at this post. Link to this post and give that a try, I can't believe after 7 hours they couldn't figure it out. At least your diagnostic is only 100, here it's 185 to 205, just to tell me what is wrong, fkn blsht if you ask me.

 

[RTJ1S]

Thanks for the kind words, Greeny. I will post this in the emergency 911 section as mentioned.

 

[JerseyJim]

Lets try to look on the bright side: The dealer has probably eliminated a number of items that this problem could be. I say for $200 (round-trip towing plus dealer's $100) you are ahead of the game.

If it were me - and I say this coming from the point of view that my truck is not my daily driver and my time is free - I'd tow it back home, pull the vc's and do the compression test myself (be sure to get the correct adapter for the glow plug hole). I'm no expert, but given it just suddenly died I don't think thats your problem.

Through experience, I have learned there are a number of mechanical failures that can happen to injectors that can cause what you've got. Since it is a mechanical failure rather than an electrical problem there won't be a cel.

I sent all eight of my injectors plus the IDM to Swamps for overhaul and tuning. Cured my no-start (with no cel) and the truck runs amazingly well. The bill was less than half what a dealer would charge just for parts and the workmanship is something no dealer can ever touch.

Good luck!
Best,
Jim

 

[Tedzz]

when you turn the key to the on position,,,what lights on the dash come on and which ones dont,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,maybe elect. issue or fuse #30????????

 

[dp_stroker]

did u happen to check ur hpop resiovor? when i bought my truck the [email protected]$$ that i bought it off of just changed the oil and didn't put enough in it and it ran about an hour away towards home and just died and wouldn't start. just like yours. and when i finiliy got it home found that the oil was over 2 quarts low and when i changed the oil..all new even the filter. cracked on her for bout 5-10 min off and on and it finallyh started up..my gues was it got some air in the lines or somthing. my .02

 

[RTJ1S]

Interesting that you mention Swamps. I have spoken with one of their employees over the phone and he was very generous with his time and he gave me some pointers I had not previously considered. About the HPOP, the resivour is full, recent oil change (800 miles ago) using good oil, not cheapo. All lights function properly, all fuses are good. I checked and rechecked all these prior to sending to the dealer. Then the dealer has checked all the obvious points also. Assuming the compression is fine, I will be sending my injectiors to Swamps, did not consider the IDM, but might as well while Im at it.

 

[RTJ1S]

I sent the injectors to be tested. If they are bad, I will replace them with stage 1 and a custom chip. In the meantime, I am cleaning the engine bay, removed the foil from the intercooler tube, polished the turbo housing, ordered the non EBPV pedestal, intake heater delete plug and turbo output housing. I am painting the tubes, valve covers etc... Once I find out if the injectors are bad, I will be selling the old parts along with my diablosport predator.

Any suggestions on building a homemade CAI??

 

[Arisley]

6637 filter and a short piece of 4" tubing.