Sockets below rachet are in that rachet size:
3" 1/4 extension
8mm deep well socket
3/8 rachet - spelling?
7/16 long or deep well socket
3/8 3" extension
1/2 breaker bar Mine is 16" long
I used a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and used my 3/8 sockets for various things because i am too lazy to do keep going back to tool box and you have to climb inside this truck bay to do anything in the back.
Small bit driver set
standard allen wrench set - individual wrenches not a fold up multi wrench
Phillips head screw driver
long flat head screw driver
6" or so flat head screw driver
4" or so thin flat head screw driver that has reasonably small grip
Here is where some assortment of wrenches comes in handy. I have regular box end wrenches, xbeam which are twisted 90 degrees from one end to the other and regular gearwrench racheting wrenches as well. I prefer the kind that don't have selectors just have to flip which side of the wrench for which direction. they are less likely to slip off.
1. Remove two bolts on upper egr
cooler tied into the intake. one is a ten mm and is a bolt. The other is a 1/2 inch and has a bracket for a coolant line tied to it. Save the bolt and nut
2. remove sensor which has one of those stupid red safety locks on it ( enter explicative) this is where you need the 1" wrench or an adjustable wrench.
3. Remove hose clamp and small coolant hose that is on top side of egr
cooler. I didn't buy a new cfm elbow so i just put a cut off bolt in this line and put the hose clamp back on it.
4. Use 7/16" racheting open end wrench to remove the three clamp nuts that hold the upper egr
cooler to the engine bracket. These can be a little difficult to squeeze your arm into position, but can be done.
5. There is a coolant line tied to the vertical cooler and has a hose clamp you will need a flat head screw driver or a bit driver. I used a knuckle joint 3/8 socket attached to the 3" and 12" extension and drill adapter hooked to my 10.8 v hitachi drill. Flat head screw drivers and hose clamps bring more explicatives out.
6. Next remove the two lower nuts attaching the horizontal cooler to the vertical cooler. This will require the 1/2 racheting wrench and some pressure. Once done you can pry the two coolers apart using a flat head screw driver. I was able to get them apart by starting with a small screw driver and working my way to a big one.
7. At this point you can remove the vetical cooler. It will come out from the top and will require a little twisting and working to come out between the fan shroud and the engine.
8. Remove the bracket holding the vertical cooler. There are five bolts holding the bracket on. There is one near the top that is a ten mm which needs a 3/8 rachet and deep socket. There is one on the bottom that can be removed the same as above. Two in the middle will need a 10mm racheting wrench and be removed on top. The bigger one requires a 1/2 wrench and i could not get from top. I had to get from bottom with someone pulling up on the wire loom and coolant line that are holding the nut on. Once the nut is off then you use the same wrench and technique to remove the second nut which is attached to a stud that will come out. The bracket is free and will come out now. I reattached the stud and used the single nut stud to attach the coolant line and wire loom back to the block in the same hole.
9. Remove inner fender liner on the driver side. Removing the tire would make sense here to but i didn't bother to do so.
10. Unhook the square wire plug in on front of frame rail so that you can access the horizontal cooler brackets.
11. Remove front clamp holding the cooler with 7/16" 3/8 socket rachet and 12" extension.
12. From underneath remove second clamp using 7/16" racheting wrench.
13. Remove the two bolts holding the rear of the horizontal cooler to the egr
up pipe. 1/2 racheting wrench from inside of fender well area.
14. Remove rear coolant line from horizontal cooler which is just held on with a hose clamp.
Step 14.5 (maybe)
Take sawzall and cut the elbows off of the horizontal cooler so that it is free to move when you take it off.
Remove the coolant lines around turbo there are three of them and they take a 3/4" wrench
Remove turbo heat shroud. There are four or five bolts and they take an 8mm rachet wrench to remove the very back one.
Step 15.5 undo clamp and move downpipe out of the way.
Step 16 un bolt the ebp
sensor from the egr
up catalyst pipe from the passenger side up pipe behind the turbo. This will take a 10mm socket wrench a lot of elbow grease and a significant amount of pb blaster or various penetrating oil
Step 17 remove sensor from egr
catalyst pipe using 9/16 wrench.
Step 18- here is where you can either do what i did or remove the drivers side up pipe.
I removed mounting bracket for ebp
sensor and moved it back a couple of bolts. Attached a ten pound magnet i have to the bottom of drivers side up pipe. I drilled the appropriate hole for the sensor in the up pipe. I vacuumed out the fillings from the drilling and tapping of the hole with a shop vac
rigged to a piece of clear fuel line. I put my micro camera in the hole to make sure no metal fillings were left in place and ran the vacuum one more time.
Step 19 Install manual waste gate and clamps. if using elite's kit install the clamp to the waste gate and short piece of pipe and tighten using allen wrench. Install that section on the up pipe connector from passenger side using supplied bolts. You may want to grind the nuts and install them on the driver side of the flange then you won't have to use a socket and a wrench.
Step 20 install bent flex pipe supplied with kit first on the waste gate and then on to the prewelded down pipe and tighten both clamps with allen wrench. The prewelded downpipe will fit in that hole regardless of what you think at first. Turn it the most unlikely looking way it would ever go in there and then it will twist and be in the right place like magic.
Step 21 i drilled and tapped my cold side intercooler pipe and installed a line (supplied from elite) from cold side pipe to regulator then from regulator to side of waste gate. The port on top of the waste gate is left free or can attach a line to run down and out of the way of the engine area. I am not really sure what comes out of it, but seemed like a good idea.
Step 22 remove the two coolant lines in the timing cover and install the supplied coolant plugs.
Step 23 your done with the hard part. now add some coolant take a shower and get all the coolant that you bathed in earlier off and go play.
For anyone who reads this and needs advice feel free to get in touch with me and i'll do my best to explain. My purpose in writing this was to show a couple of things
1. It can be done in 6-9 hours without removing cab or removing the radiator or anything else extremely time consuming. Some people would probably remove this stuff, but I wanted to do it without because i am used to working in tight conditions and well it just makes things more interesting.
2. I searched for information on this topic and since there were not manufacturer supplied instructions or in depth information from one source regarding how to do this I hope to enlight the next person who makes this decision for the longevity of their vehicle. If i forgot a step I am sorry I am writing this from memory. I assume 90% of the work is involved in the install of any egr
delete and wastegate setup.