2008-9 6.4 Headstud Install w/ Cab-ON - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 1 (permalink) Old 05-01-2009, 12:35 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: So.Cal, U.S.A.
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2008-9 6.4 Headstud Install w/ Cab-ON

gene( weweld) and I wrote this. I hope it works. Good Luck!

6.4 Powerstroke Cab-On Headstud Install: how-to

This is a how-to based on doing headstuds w/o pulling the heads or needing headgaskets. This process does 1 bolt at a time.

Many things about accessing the valve covers are self explanatory. Iím not going to spend a lot of time detailing each nut and bolt removed in the process, but more-so detailing what needs to be moved, and the headstud removal and replacement.

For our install, we started by removing the passenger side valve cover first. Quickly we noticed the grill can be a major hazard, so we removed it. the mounting bars will remain there, and beware, but not as bad as the grill itself. We didnít want to risk injury or damage to the grill.

Step 1- disconnect ground to both batteries. drain radiator at petcock. it comes out sideways, so we attached a hose to guide the coolant into a bucket. You want to get all the coolant out, as you will remove most of the coolant lines during this process.

Step 2- remove intake completely, from the airbox to the turbo. Pull the mass air sensor and filter minder from intake and lay it out of the way, towards the battery. Then remove the bolts and drain hose that hold the oil filler/ separator from the valve cover. Disconnect the heater hose that passes over the valve cover. (Please be VERY careful when working in this area, this is the plastic coolant bypass line to the heater core that is VERY brittle and sensitive to breakage. We broke one that runs along the topside of the passenger side valve cover)Remove the glow plug relay and bracket and ground strap this should get the majority of the stuff out of the way to access all valve cover bolts.

Step 3- remove glow plug connectors and pull the harness that connects them all free and clear. These will be removed by placing a flat head screw driver under the plug to get the rubber plug released, as not to pull on the wires. The plug may be seated more than the wire can withstand, and you DON'T want to pull on the wires at all. Once the plug is popped, pulling gently, squeeze the rubber grommet that seats the connector, and then pull gently until the connector releases. Once all have been removed tuck the glow plug harness forward of the motor, out of the way.

Step 4- at this point you should have good access to all valve cover bolts. Remove all bolts securing it, and pull valve cover you are now ready to begin headbolt removal.

Step 5- the headstuds you purchase will most likely come with a sequence diagram. It will tell you to install and torque headstuds from inside out. Meaning the 2 middle headbolts, then the 2 in each direction in order. i.e.: if you start in the middle, you are free to do the 2 forward or the 2 behind, but this will dictate your sequence. Starting from inside out, alternating front to rear, or rear to front, from the middle.

Step 5- starting with the first headbolt, you absolutely want a 16mm 6point impact socket. (We dusted 2 craftsman sockets to find this out. they both broke in the same place, the same way.) The factory says the headbolt torque is 165 ft/lbs, and that very well may be, but something occurs under pressure. maybe the headbolts stretch, I donít know, but the torque required to break these bolts free is WAY above 165 ft/lbs. I would even suggest keeping an extra 16mm 6 point impact socket on hand for fear of breaking. Always be careful of injector wiring and solenoids. These are very delicate and can be VERY costly if you damage one. Be sure the breaker bar has proper extension to clear the tops and wires to the injectors.
Do not use a ratchet wrench for this. A breaker bar is much more reliable. As well, we used a big cheater bar, because it was ABSOLUTELY necessary, on every bolt. Once you have broken the first head bolt, it will require about (3) 90 degree turns, the force will diminish each turn, but most likely require the cheater bar. You will then feel the headbolt release, and it becomes finger loose. There is one bolt at the back that you cannot get out; the second from the rear on the bottom row. To remove this bolt, remove nuts from motor mount, (4 nuts), then remove the 2 transmission mount nuts, then jack up about an inch, maybe a bit more on the bell housing. These will clearance the motor to get the headbolt out. Leave jack in place until stud is installed and nut is torqued through complete sequence. You can remove the jack after all studs on the passenger side are torqued to specified pressure.

(note: you will most likely after each turn of the headbolt, need to twist the socket 90* on the extension to get back to your original start point. this will help get more distance out of each pull with the breaker bar.)

Step 6- have a head stud ready, with the block side threads dipped in oil. We dipped the stud in a bottle of oil, just the threads, and then let it drip off onto a towel, as to not be over oiled. i found that if i dipped all 10 studs, then applied the moly lube (supplied with studs) generously with a dab on my fingertip, about a finger width up one side of the threads that the washer and nut went on, that seemed to work fine. (the threads are severely different from block side to top/nut side, you will know) as not to get messy, i did all 10 studs at once. After I applied the moly to the studs, i applied a thin layer to ONE side of the washer, and another thin layer to the bottom face of the nut. This made it possible to only have to wash my hands once. The moly isnít bad anyway.

Step 7- after the bolt is removed install the stud, being sure to set the block side in, you should be able to turn it mostly by hand, meaning with an allen wrench in the insert on the top of the stud. No major force should be required. We used a hand driver. an allen wrench may work or a 1/4" socket driver may work , but nothing more than that, as you donít want to force the stud in, it doesnít need any mechanical advantage. You will notice the topside threads just diving below the head, about that time you will bottom out the stud. Using no more than the power of your hand, finish seating the stud. You are now ready to install the washer and stud nut.

Step 8- set supplied washer on stud, moly coated side facing up. Then put supplied washer on, making sure you applied a light coat of moly. You should be able to finger the nut all the way down. Then using a 13/16 12 point socket, and a torque wrench, begin tightening. ( when torque the nut, we found the chrome cracking off the socket, so it may not be a bad idea to have an extra on hand, just in case) We used elite H-11 studs, and we torqued each nut to 105 then loosened it up and retorqued doing this 3 times. After all 10 studs are in the head and torqued to 105 you may then start with the 145 in sequence, then 195 in sequence. By this time, from removing the headbolts, you should know what extension and angle works for each stud, as they are all different. Always be careful of injector wiring and solenoids. These are very delicate and can be VERY costly if you damage one. Be sure the torque wrench has proper extension to clear the tops and wires to
the injectors.

Step 9- button the passenger side back up, except for the ground on the battery. Replace motor mount nuts and tighten, but do not replace transmission mount nuts, as you will need to jack the trans up once more.

Step 10- moving to the drivers side, remove radiator hose. it has a wire clip, that you can most likely remove with your fingers. Just pull clip until it releases, and then pull radiator hose off radiator. Remove overflow hose from reservoir, it has similar clip as the radiator hose, pull clip then remove. Remove driverís side battery, then remove battery tray, being careful, as you remove tray, disconnect vacuum line and sensor from the bottom, then remove completely.

Step 11- remove fuel cooler assembly. Youíll need to disconnect the 2 fuel lines from the top. Tuck the lines via zip-ties away, or they are a pita to maneuver around. Be careful not to lose the o-rings, I left them on and put the bolts back in, as fuel may want to drip out even with the bolts in, just to minimize it. Pull both coolant lines off, squeezing clamps with channel locks and sliding hose off. Be careful as coolant may want to come out, so immediately hold hoses up after removing, and tuck them in an upright position to minimize leaking. Then remove the 5 bolts that hold the black bracket on. 3 nuts are visible on the side, then 2 are down lower on the valve cover and 2 are on the top of the valve cover. Once these nuts are removed, the bracket, which is in 2 pieces, may come off together, or separate, but remove all of it. It will slide off the turbo inlet as you do this. You may have to pull fairly hard to get it to slide off. Once you have
done this, remove exhaust back pressure line, it has a bracket that slides on top of the black bracket, and a compression fitting down at the manifold, that you can remove with a crescent wrench.

Step 12- remove vane motor. Take nut that controls waste gate arm off, you can pull the arm back for better access to the nut and slide the arm out of its socket. Then there are 3 nuts towards the bottom of the vane motor that you will have to aim down at to get off, they are easy to find and remove. Remove vane motor. You are now clear to get valve cover off. You can get the valve cover off without removing vane motor, but you will need it gone later when doing the studs. Follow earlier steps to remove valve cover. Follow earlier steps to remove and replace studs. The only head bolt that isnít removable is the back bottom head bolt. you will need to jack the trans up a little bit, its very close to clearing, but the neck of the head bolt is just catching the firewall. Once you get it out put the stud back in and torque it before you let the trans down. After letting the trans down replace the 2 nuts on the trans mount.

Step 13- Replace valve cover, glow plugs and exhausts back pressure line. Then proceed to replace the vane motor, and reattach the waste gate arm. Then attach the fuel cooler assembly, fuel lines, coolant lines, but do not install the radiator hose. Replace battery tray/coolant reservoir remembering to plug in vacuum line and sensor, and the lower clip on hose and replace battery. Replace the radiator hose at this time. Refill coolant at reservoir and unscrew cap on fuel cooler coolant tank and fill with coolant as well. (I donít think it takes much) Check all connections, bolts and nuts. Make sure there is nothing left over. Take your time here, as you have removed a lot of stuff, be thorough in going over everything, but itís worth it. Start truck, run until its hot, wait to see coolant reservoir drain after thermostat opens, then fill reservoir bottle to desired height. You're done, now go spray some nitrous in that motor, because it wants you to.

08' F250 4x4 w/ 3:55's
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