Hi PowerStrokeNation,
I've purchased 1997 Ford F-250HD 7.3L Powerstroke with 119,500 miles. It was a Caterpillar fleet truck auctioned and extremely neglected service maintenance over the years. I've replaced all eight Injector O-rings with newer designed Mahle O-rings. Factory O-ring top section had metal compression ring, cushion O-ring and typical O-ring. Middle section had cushion O-ring and typical O-ring with one typical O-ring on bottom section. New Mahle O-rings had metal compression ring, cushion O-ring and typical O-ring as normal on top section. Middle section had only one larger typical shape O-ring to replace factory cushion with typical factory O-ring setup and new bottom single typical O-ring.
I've replaced all eight Glow Plugs with Ford OEM ZD-11 Glow Plugs. Before replacing new Glow Plugs I did purge all eight cylinders to remove as much motor oil that drained in during injector pulls. I've replaced all four factory High Pressure Oil Rail Plugs with Riffraff Plugs, all four Factory Fuel Rail Banjo Bolts with Riffraff Banjo Bolts, and added Stainless Steel HPX crossover Tube between oil rails.
Replaced Sensors with Ford OEM: HPOP IPR sensor, ICP sensor, EBP Sensor, EBP Stainless Tube, and EBP manifold fitting. Company invoice showed Cam Senor replaced with OEM less than 20,000 miles ago. Replaced O-Rings between non-EBP Pedestal, engine, as well as Turbo to Pedestal.
I've rebuilt Turbo that was leaking huge amounts of burn motor oil into all 8 cylinders and exhaust manifold. The only original Turbo part reused was the turbo intake housing. New Non-EBP Turbo Pedestal, New Center Turbo Mount containing bearings and turbo axle, replaced 1.15 factory turbine housing with 1.0 turbine housing, new bearing and seal kit with brass 360 degree bearing, New balanced Turbine Wheel and Shaft, and new Riffraff WW2 Compressor Wheel.
Replaced OEM air filter housing with Spectrum Cold Air Intake, added Mishimoto Catch Can, and CX Racing Intercooler.
Fuel Bowl had algae deposits so I added Power Service brand Bio-Kleen to Fuel Tank which I use at work with great results. Also added Power Service brand Diesel Kleen injector cleaner & performance improver as well.
Replace factory exhaust with Diamond Eye 4" Cat Delete from Turbo to rear bumper. I was expecting a lot of oil burning blowing out of the exhaust until all oil residue was clear from cylinders and exhaust. Over twenty miles the bright blue exhaust smoke did lighten by 50%, but continues after 100 miles of driving. Also exhaust pipe dripping a lot of black motor oil when parked after driving.
Replaced Crank case and Hpop oil with RevX oil additive and T5 Rotella 15w-40. As an afterthought I was wondering if the Fuel additives, Oil additive and/or T5 Motor Oil was preventing new injector O-rings from sealing correctly allowing blow by, but at this point I turn to those with more experience...!
Original exhaust pipe had heavy carbon buildup from massive amounts of Turbo oil leaks which was obvious once I disassembled it. Both sides compressor and turbine showed fresh and old burnt oil residue.
I do know oil stays in push rods and probably other small areas but the oil draining from exhaust is extremely dark black. If I had to guess I would assume (no puns reply please lol) cleaner oil color in comparison. Crank case drained for two days, Hpop, and both high pressure oil rails were drained as well. Dip stick continues difficult to read due to clean oil film. So maybe assuming on my part is incorrect..?
Also the exhaust oil burning volume did lower by estimated half since the first start. Take offs are the heaviest, cruising slight amount of smoke with no smoke at times, and deceleration producing a short term puff of blue smoke. Never white or black, always blue smoke. Oddly no smoke during idle ever.
Before maintenance project truck did not smoke, but suffered from cold start injector stiction and low power output throughout throttle range regardless of engine temp. My questions for my new found PSN friends are: After 100 miles is this typical burning bright blue smoke and if so how many miles of driving before this issue clears up to reasonable amount of smoke expected...? Have I missed something during my O-ring injector rebuild or general mechanics required...?
I'm open to every opinion and questions hoping to resolve oil burner issues before DMV SWAT Entry Team crashes through my door...lol.
Much appreciated, thanks!
I've purchased 1997 Ford F-250HD 7.3L Powerstroke with 119,500 miles. It was a Caterpillar fleet truck auctioned and extremely neglected service maintenance over the years. I've replaced all eight Injector O-rings with newer designed Mahle O-rings. Factory O-ring top section had metal compression ring, cushion O-ring and typical O-ring. Middle section had cushion O-ring and typical O-ring with one typical O-ring on bottom section. New Mahle O-rings had metal compression ring, cushion O-ring and typical O-ring as normal on top section. Middle section had only one larger typical shape O-ring to replace factory cushion with typical factory O-ring setup and new bottom single typical O-ring.
I've replaced all eight Glow Plugs with Ford OEM ZD-11 Glow Plugs. Before replacing new Glow Plugs I did purge all eight cylinders to remove as much motor oil that drained in during injector pulls. I've replaced all four factory High Pressure Oil Rail Plugs with Riffraff Plugs, all four Factory Fuel Rail Banjo Bolts with Riffraff Banjo Bolts, and added Stainless Steel HPX crossover Tube between oil rails.
Replaced Sensors with Ford OEM: HPOP IPR sensor, ICP sensor, EBP Sensor, EBP Stainless Tube, and EBP manifold fitting. Company invoice showed Cam Senor replaced with OEM less than 20,000 miles ago. Replaced O-Rings between non-EBP Pedestal, engine, as well as Turbo to Pedestal.
I've rebuilt Turbo that was leaking huge amounts of burn motor oil into all 8 cylinders and exhaust manifold. The only original Turbo part reused was the turbo intake housing. New Non-EBP Turbo Pedestal, New Center Turbo Mount containing bearings and turbo axle, replaced 1.15 factory turbine housing with 1.0 turbine housing, new bearing and seal kit with brass 360 degree bearing, New balanced Turbine Wheel and Shaft, and new Riffraff WW2 Compressor Wheel.
Replaced OEM air filter housing with Spectrum Cold Air Intake, added Mishimoto Catch Can, and CX Racing Intercooler.
Fuel Bowl had algae deposits so I added Power Service brand Bio-Kleen to Fuel Tank which I use at work with great results. Also added Power Service brand Diesel Kleen injector cleaner & performance improver as well.
Replace factory exhaust with Diamond Eye 4" Cat Delete from Turbo to rear bumper. I was expecting a lot of oil burning blowing out of the exhaust until all oil residue was clear from cylinders and exhaust. Over twenty miles the bright blue exhaust smoke did lighten by 50%, but continues after 100 miles of driving. Also exhaust pipe dripping a lot of black motor oil when parked after driving.
Replaced Crank case and Hpop oil with RevX oil additive and T5 Rotella 15w-40. As an afterthought I was wondering if the Fuel additives, Oil additive and/or T5 Motor Oil was preventing new injector O-rings from sealing correctly allowing blow by, but at this point I turn to those with more experience...!
Original exhaust pipe had heavy carbon buildup from massive amounts of Turbo oil leaks which was obvious once I disassembled it. Both sides compressor and turbine showed fresh and old burnt oil residue.
I do know oil stays in push rods and probably other small areas but the oil draining from exhaust is extremely dark black. If I had to guess I would assume (no puns reply please lol) cleaner oil color in comparison. Crank case drained for two days, Hpop, and both high pressure oil rails were drained as well. Dip stick continues difficult to read due to clean oil film. So maybe assuming on my part is incorrect..?
Also the exhaust oil burning volume did lower by estimated half since the first start. Take offs are the heaviest, cruising slight amount of smoke with no smoke at times, and deceleration producing a short term puff of blue smoke. Never white or black, always blue smoke. Oddly no smoke during idle ever.
Before maintenance project truck did not smoke, but suffered from cold start injector stiction and low power output throughout throttle range regardless of engine temp. My questions for my new found PSN friends are: After 100 miles is this typical burning bright blue smoke and if so how many miles of driving before this issue clears up to reasonable amount of smoke expected...? Have I missed something during my O-ring injector rebuild or general mechanics required...?
I'm open to every opinion and questions hoping to resolve oil burner issues before DMV SWAT Entry Team crashes through my door...lol.
Much appreciated, thanks!