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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-29-2019, 06:40 PM
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Re: Hello all

Cowboy,

You have had me thinking about your build (and I don't wish to dissuade you in your plans - just more food for thought)... I'm by no means an expert on the 7.3 - there are fellows here at PSN that are far more knowledgeable than I. The 7.3 in the 96 Fords was rated at a nominal 425 ft-lbs of torque. To get closer to a modern Ford and double your torque to let say 800 ft-lbs will, I think, considerably shorten the life of your motor. I have read several posts here on PSN stating that the 7.3 won't get you anywhere fast, but it will run all day long and not let you down. I see a couple of places that you may be pushing the limits of the drivetrain. The 7.3 is a great motor no doubt about it, but it is several generations behind. The new 6.7 engine uses a compacted graphite iron block and 6 bolt mains (2 of which go though the skirt) compared to our cast iron block with 4 bolt mains. The ZF6 speed is rated to around 530 ft-lbs of torque (ZF S6-650, S6-750 Transmission Specs & Ratios). Though, I have read that the "650" in the ZF6 part number is the nominal input torque for the transmission. International’s version of the 7.3 was rated to 620 ft-lb whereas Ford maxed out at 525 ft-lbs to possibly protect it from us end users (7.3L Power Stroke Diesel Specs & Info and International T444E Specs & Info). Sorry - you probably know all this (what can I say - I like to hear myself talk ). My own experience in my 97 with a ZF5 and a 3.55 rear end towing a 15000# load through Wyoming is that the shifts were too deep trying to move load over the hills (granted my truck at that point was completely stock and I have since swapped out the ZF5 for a road ranger 10 speed). I really had to rev the motor before the next shift in order to keep the engine in its power band for the next gear down. The ZF6 speed would have been a little better, but I would imagine that it will like higher rpms to keep the load moving down the road. Now with power upgrades it will be easier. Personally, I think a tune similar to the 620 ft-lb International version would be best (perhaps with a slightly higher rpm limit). I'm considering swapping over to 3.73s (maybe I can talk Heavydoc out of his for cheap) as it would only raise my cruising rpms by 100 or so. I'll be following your posts closely as I'm considering similar future upgrades to my truck. My thoughts have been intercooler, 160/30 or 180/30 injectors, better HPOP, hydra chip, and possibly finding a Dana 80 for the rearend.

Cj

1997 F350 CCLB 7.3, Eaton Fuller RTO-6610, 4x4, 3.54, otherwise stock
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-30-2019, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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I apreciate your food for thought and definitely has me thinking more on this. And i apreciate it ill definitely keep everyone updated on the truck. Not really trying to go fast or make a winning 1/4 mile. Just trying to be a bit better than stock. Mostly in towing but also in highway. Like this 6 pos switch. Ill prob run the mid tune or 60 more hp most of the time unless im loaded. Your comment has definitely got me thinking. Ill lyk what comes of all this brewing with another reply.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-30-2019, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Definitely about to do alot more reasearch on turning up a 7.3 and its wear factors
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 02:57 AM Thread Starter
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Btw this is the general recipe i have found and was following to get my power. This seems close to what everyone has been saying. I would post the screenshot but pics suck😂.
400-450hp: 180cc to 205cc injectors with 80 percent or 100 percent larger nozzles
Custom tuning via TS Performance six-position chip or Hydra chip
Drop in turbo (Dominator 66 on ’94.5-‘97, GTP38R on ’99-‘03) or T4 mount
Electric fuel system (required on ’94.5-’97 trucks, Walbro drop-in pump on ’99-’03 trucks)
Regulated return fuel system
Valve body and triple disc torque converter
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 01:37 PM
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Re: Hello all

Quote:
Originally Posted by CowboyNation1977 View Post
Btw this is the general recipe i have found and was following to get my power. This seems close to what everyone has been saying. I would post the screenshot but pics suck😂.
400-450hp: 180cc to 205cc injectors with 80 percent or 100 percent larger nozzles
Custom tuning via TS Performance six-position chip or Hydra chip
Drop in turbo (Dominator 66 on ’94.5-‘97, GTP38R on ’99-‘03) or T4 mount
Electric fuel system (required on ’94.5-’97 trucks, Walbro drop-in pump on ’99-’03 trucks)
Regulated return fuel system
Valve body and triple disc torque converter
A couple things I would like to note about your list. Now this is just me, others will have their input as well, im sure.

180-205cc injectors I think are a waste, after talking with dozens of people with them, and 160cc inj, and 238cc inj, including tuners, and injector manufactures, it seems that if you arent going with a mild "bump" (ie the 160cc injector), then you need to just step up to a 238c/80% combo. Hundreds, if not thousands of people have done this, and still tow well with a good turbo setup. Again, just my opinion. I plan on going to a 238cc or 250cc and still tow my 13,000lbs trailer.

Hydra chip hands down. Theyre not that different in price, and you can load tunes yourself instead of shipping them to someone to do it for you. Not to mention the 15 positions instead of 6.

The drop in turbo has been talked about lately, see Turbo Options thread and we eventually came to the conclusion that if you already have everything that comes in a T4 kit (ie, intercooler piping, bellowed up pipes etc) then to go with a KC drop in turbo. the D66 and 38R are old news now and they've been problematic in the past (ie, smokey, hard to get lit)

Everything else you have is good. A homebrew E-Fuel kit can be relatively cheap, and with a stock 99-03 pump, can support quite a bit of power with some very good reliability. See My E-fuel build thread and how I did mine.
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1996 Cali F350 CCFB, 7.3 PSD, 2wd SAS, w/ 378,000 miles.
New Motor at 352,000, DieselSite Legendary Trans at 356,000 and many more
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Hello all

Update: it looks like im buying a blueprinted and headstuded ccp long block. I also have another question. I want to 05 superduty axle swap but the RYD buckets looks weak on the bolt. There is only 4 little bolts that hold the bucket on. Please let me know what yall think about the RYD setup strength and reliability wise.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 01:27 PM
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Re: Hello all

If you're worried, bolt it on and then weld it to the frame.

I personally would not just bolt it on...


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1996 Cali F350 CCFB, 7.3 PSD, 2wd SAS, w/ 378,000 miles.
New Motor at 352,000, DieselSite Legendary Trans at 356,000 and many more
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019, 01:58 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Hello all

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt.Dan View Post
If you're worried, bolt it on and then weld it to the frame.

I personally would not just bolt it on...
Thats what i was thinking. I was just conserned about weling to the frame in case for some weird reason i had to remove them. But id say 60,000lbs tensel strength welding rods should do the trick.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Hello all

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt.Dan View Post
A couple things I would like to note about your list. Now this is just me, others will have their input as well, im sure.

180-205cc injectors I think are a waste, after talking with dozens of people with them, and 160cc inj, and 238cc inj, including tuners, and injector manufactures, it seems that if you arent going with a mild "bump" (ie the 160cc injector), then you need to just step up to a 238c/80% combo. Hundreds, if not thousands of people have done this, and still tow well with a good turbo setup. Again, just my opinion. I plan on going to a 238cc or 250cc and still tow my 13,000lbs trailer.

Hydra chip hands down. Theyre not that different in price, and you can load tunes yourself instead of shipping them to someone to do it for you. Not to mention the 15 positions instead of 6.

The drop in turbo has been talked about lately, see Turbo Options thread and we eventually came to the conclusion that if you already have everything that comes in a T4 kit (ie, intercooler piping, bellowed up pipes etc) then to go with a KC drop in turbo. the D66 and 38R are old news now and they've been problematic in the past (ie, smokey, hard to get lit)

Everything else you have is good. A homebrew E-Fuel kit can be relatively cheap, and with a stock 99-03 pump, can support quite a bit of power with some very good reliability. See My E-fuel build thread and how I did mine.
I believe imma take your advice on the injectors. It makes sense. But tbh my knowlage on turbos is quite slim. Its prob the only thing i dont know much about on this truck. Do you have a recommendation to a t4 turbo kit w/turbo? Links? Also this truck has none of the intercooler pipes or anything else. Just a 3.5in turbo back down pipe. Will a banks intercooler setup be a good choice?
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019, 02:39 PM
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Re: Hello all

Quote:
Originally Posted by CowboyNation1977 View Post
I believe imma take your advice on the injectors. It makes sense. But tbh my knowlage on turbos is quite slim. Its prob the only thing i dont know much about on this truck. Do you have a recommendation to a t4 turbo kit w/turbo? Links? Also this truck has none of the intercooler pipes or anything else. Just a 3.5in turbo back down pipe. Will a banks intercooler setup be a good choice?
CSD https://www.carsonstaufferdiesel.com...s/t4-turbo-kitand Irate Diesel are the first 2 that come to mind for me. A sxe366 or sxe364.5 would be good for 238/80s. Do some research on what other people run with those injectors, or call a few vendors (ie, CSD, Swamps, Irate, etc) and they will point you in the right direction.


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1996 Cali F350 CCFB, 7.3 PSD, 2wd SAS, w/ 378,000 miles.
New Motor at 352,000, DieselSite Legendary Trans at 356,000 and many more
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