5R110 to ZF6 wiring? - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-05-2013, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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5R110 to ZF6 wiring?

I have to admit, when i was working on my truck 5 months ago it seemed like i knew what needed to happen with the wiring with my cummins/ZF6 swap in my 05 F250. I can not seem to locate all the notes I took back then and now that the conversion is physically finalized I need to get the wiring out of the way. Any details on the wiring required when doing a 5r to ZF swap? There are many who have details on the 4R to ZF but very little can be found on the wiring on my setup. I did install a 03 CR cummins as well so i am not worried about ECU tuning or what not, I just want my truck to stat, run, and not have a dash full of lights. Any help in pointing me on the right direction would be awesome. BTW, I do have the ZF6 transmission harness so if i could just wire it into the 5R harness that would be awesome.

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Mike
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-06-2013, 04:15 AM
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Re: 5R110 to ZF6 wiring?

neutral safety switch wire jumped?

2008 F350 Lariat 6speed!
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-06-2013, 06:38 PM
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Re: 5R110 to ZF6 wiring?

Straight from DCS conversion manual.......


’03-‘06 starter relay wiring- Standard trans in torqshift truck



When changing transmissions in ’03-‘04’s you will have to re-wire the starter and
reverse lamp relays. You will also need to make some changes for your cruise
control and transfer case electric shift if applicable. Read the instructions
completely before doing any wiring so you will have a good understanding of what
you need to do and can do things in the proper order. Re-wire as follows:



Make sure the batteries are disconnected



Starter relay- You will need a clutch pedal position switch, and a connector for the
same. The connectors are also available new if you cannot get a used one. This
switch installs on the push rod in between the pedal and the clutch master cylinder.
With the connector cavity pointed down, snap the switch onto the push rod. If you
are going to wire in a cruise control servo, read those instructions as well, so that
you can rewire the clutch switch for that function at the same time. After you have
wired the connector, plug it in to the switch and rotate the switch clockwise to
where the connector is in the 12 O’clock position then put the lock on the bottom of
the switch.



’04 trucks may have different wire colors, but they are in the same location as the ‘03’s.



The easiest place to find the wires you need to deal with is at the connector on the
Ford PCM (the computer by the battery on the driver’s side) that is closest to the
firewall. Unplug this connector from the computer and take off the shield on the
harness side. Where the wires go into the connector there are numbers. Find the
wire in the number 4 position. It should be brown with a pink stripe. Later trucks
are pink. Cut this wire away from the connector. The Ford computer switches this
wire to ground to enable your starter relay. To the harness end of the wire you cut,
solder or use a good butt splice connector to attach a wire long enough to go into the
cab to the clutch pedal position switch. Connect this wire to the wire in pin # 1 in
the clutch switch connector. If you are looking at the connector as it is facing you,
with the wires pointed away from you, and the alignment tab pointing up, this is the
cavity on the farthest left. Connect the wire next to it to a good ground. This will
make the clutch switch close this circuit to ground when you are pushing on the
pedal.





Cruise Control- You must re-wire the following to disengage the cruise control
when the clutch pedal is pushed. The easiest way is to find the wire in pin #4 at the
servo in a convenient place to break out of the harness and go inside the cab.
Normally, in a truck that was a diesel and you were installing the gas cruise servo
you would only splice to this wire at the brake pedal switch, but you will have to cut


this wire in two. Do not cut this wire in two at the brake switch because there are
factory splices on this circuit that you will disconnect power from.

The best way - no wires to run through the firewall - is to find this wire and the
splices mentioned above in the harness going to the firewall, under the dash, and cut
the wire on the firewall end of the splices.

Either way, connect the servo side of this wire to the wire in pin # 3 of the clutch
pedal position switch. Connect the harness side of the brake wire to the wire in pin
# 4 of the clutch switch. Verify that this wire in the #4 pin on the servo connector
has power when the brake pedal is pushed, no power and grounds when both pedals
are in normal position, and no power no ground when the clutch pedal is pushed
down. This will turn off the cruise when either the brake or clutch is pushed.





Reverse lamp relay- Find the connector on the PCM closest to the front of the
truck. Find the wire in pin # 3. It should be yellow with a light green stripe. Cut
this wire away from the PCM connector. Splice onto the side of the wire that is in
the harness. Send this wire and another wire down to the reverse switch on your
manual trans. Ground the other wire somewhere on the fender, up by your battery
so it will stay clean.



Electric shift - Find the connector on the PCM closest to the front of the truck
again. The wire in pin # 4 is a PCM switched ground. To fool the four-wheel drive
module you will have to cut this wire away from the PCM and ground the harness
side of the wire. On 05 trucks use the red/white wire in pin #3 that is in the PCM
connector that is closest to the firewall.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-06-2013, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 5R110 to ZF6 wiring?

Thank you very much. I assume that 04 and 05 trucks would be pretty much the same so this should be what I need.

Thanks
Mike
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-13-2013, 01:45 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 5R110 to ZF6 wiring?

I followed the instructions and have yet to get the starter to turn over. The neutral safety switch may be the issue as I was reading that it sends a signal and is not just a switch. Is that correct?
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-13-2013, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 5R110 to ZF6 wiring?

I grounded the pin 4/pink wire (starter relay circut) on C1381a yet there is still not start. Any ideas? Just to be clear here are the details on my setup. I was under the impression that grounding the pink wire would allow the truck to start.

2005 F250 ex 6.0 5R110
2005 ZF6 installed
Auto wiring in place
Clutch lockout switch not wired up yet.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-13-2013, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 5R110 to ZF6 wiring?

Got it figured out.

Thanks
Mike
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 02:19 AM
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Re: 5R110 to ZF6 wiring?

Did you ground the wrong side of the #4 wire?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 5R110 to ZF6 wiring?

Not sure what changed other than the location in which i grounded the wire. I skinned a little insulation from the wire just out of the PCM and used clips to ground it while testing and it did not work. I then located the wire under the dash and grounded it, and it worked. I wired it into the clutch switch so now you must push in the clutch to start the truck. I have not clipped a single wire on the harness, I just trimmed off insulation on the wire and soldered another wire on it to run to where ever i need the wire to run. that solves knowing which side to ground. hahah

I have not been able to get my reverse switch to work on my ZF6. I can ground the correct wire white/green on front connector on PCM and the reverse lights work, I ran the wires to the reverse switch and grounded one side an put the transmission in reverse but the lights are not working. I swapped things around and tested the wire by just grounding it to the transmission and the lights worked. Not sure why the switch is not working.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-15-2013, 05:55 PM
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Re: 5R110 to ZF6 wiring?

Have you tested the switch to see that circuit closes when in reverse? Switch itself might be faulty, that's the only thing I could see there that would be wrong.

2004 F-350, P-Pumped 24V Cummins at 17*, #3 Colt Cam, Weston DV Valves, DDP 50HP, 4000 GSK, FASS, DPS Twins D-tech 62 over HT3B, methanol, 6637 Cummins BHAF, ZF6 converted, divorced twin stick NP205, Kim Hotstart, Mishimoto elec fans, 2x 14" pushers, 2x 16" pullers on Mishimoto rad.
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