ZF6 Grinding & hard to shift into L or R. - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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Question ZF6 Grinding & hard to shift into L or R.

I have a 2000 F550 that has a ZF6 with about 175k miles. That is now grinding into gear and hard to shift into Low or Reverse. The slave cylinder / master cylinder was just replaced, the truck shifted fine before the old slave cylinder was blown out by someone pressing the clutch pedal when the engine was out. It also grinds a little when engaging the PTO.

The slave cylinder is an OEM Ford unit. The clutch seems to be working a little better after pumping the clutch pedal a few time, and was able to get it backed back into the shop. It will shift in and out of gear fine with the engine off but had to shift into 1st and 2nd before i was able to shift in Low or Reverse. The transmission is low on fluid going to pick some Mercron V up tomorrow and change out the fluid and fill it.

Would a new slave cylinder assembly have some air in it? It is supposed to be prebled.
Would the fluid being a little low cause the hard shift and grinding?
Is there anything else that could cause this? I'm really hoping the Transmission don't need dropped again with the hydraulic/pto assembly it's a major PITA. Have my fingers crossed the clutch fork is not bent or broken, wasnt when the engine was put back in.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 01:22 AM
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Re: ZF6 Grinding & hard to shift into L or R.

I don't know. Even though it's supposedly pre-bled, I would still try bleeding it.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 02:10 AM
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Re: ZF6 Grinding & hard to shift into L or R.

Pull the slave out of the bell housing and pump the rod in and out 4 times and put it back in. See if that helps.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 03:18 AM
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Re: ZF6 Grinding & hard to shift into L or R.

Definitely air. It getting better after pumping is a dead give away. I've never seen a hydraulic clutch that didn't need bled. They all need bled. It's probably going to be a b*tch and take forever though. Just depends on how many bleed screws and where they are.

I had a Duramax I had to bleed for like four hours one time. It sucked. Also, had one on a ranger that was a royal pain in the ass not too long ago. Never done one on a Powerstoke though.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 03:54 AM Thread Starter
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Re: ZF6 Grinding & hard to shift into L or R.

Some genius at Ford decided to use a system that dont use bleed screws... Though the replacement unit we got does have a bleed screw on the master cylinder side of the system, at least it sure looks like one.

I've done a few Rangers, at least you have bleed screws on the slave cylinder with them. Never had to many issues with my Rangers, just a bit tedious crawling in and out from underneath them to top off the reservoir..
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 11:01 AM
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Re: ZF6 Grinding & hard to shift into L or R.

When I bought my replacements, (both metal from orielly) the slave for sure had a bleeder.
Didn't buy the pre-bled. Also didn't take more than 30 minutes.

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1979 chevy c30 dually, sm465, 373's? Converted to 6.2 diesel, pump turned up and advanced a hair.(wrecked)
1994 ford F350 dually 4X4: 7.3 powerstroke, 5 speed. 6637, straight pipe into dual stacks. Cooper discoverer at/3's.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 12:16 PM
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Re: ZF6 Grinding & hard to shift into L or R.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Herbertv2 View Post
Some genius at Ford decided to use a system that dont use bleed screws... Though the replacement unit we got does have a bleed screw on the master cylinder side of the system, at least it sure looks like one.

I've done a few Rangers, at least you have bleed screws on the slave cylinder with them. Never had to many issues with my Rangers, just a bit tedious crawling in and out from underneath them to top off the reservoir..
You are right, Ford did do that on some slaves. And Ford is not the only one that did that. It's a nightmare process of pumping the pedal 50 times rapidly and tapping all along the slave and line with a small hammer or something to knock the air bubbles loose and letting them float to the top. Then repeat until you have a good pedal.

The easiest way to check clutch disengagement is shift from neutral to reverse. If it goes into reverse smoothly with no grinding, then you're done. Now, the clutch should be fully disengadged before the pedal reaches the floor. So do the reverse check with the pedal almost pushed to the floor. Just push it all the way to the floor and let it up just a bit. Maybe about a 1/2 inch or so and shift from neutral to reverse. If it goes smoothly, you're done.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Re: ZF6 Grinding & hard to shift into L or R.

Got it fixed, at least it seems fixed now. Pumped the clutch 60 some times, and seemed to start disengaging the way it is supposed too. I can easily go from Neutral to reverse and neutral to low and low to reverse with the engine running. Going to change the trans fluid on Monday for good measure no clue the last it was changed, wasn't as low as i thought put maybe a half pint in to top it off and was running out.
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