my clutch...Help! - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-08-2009, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
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my clutch...Help!

Perhaps it is on here somewhere, but I cant find it.

1997 OBS F350 4x4 5 speed. About half the time I press the clutch, it seems to work just fine and nothing seems out of the ordinary on either how hard I press it or where it engages and disengages. The rest of the time, various things happen.

1) I press it and it doesnt seem to be doing its job at all. The gears just grind and are really really hard to get into and out of. If forcing (jamming) the truck into gear doesnt work, I have even had to kill the truck and go into and out of gear with the truck dead, then re-start it.

2) As I sit at a stop light for any amount of time at all, even though the clutch worked fine upon approaching the light, it seems to be acting if it is bleeding off, even to the point of the truck trying to creep, and the only thing stopping me from forward motion is stronger brakeing. I am afraid this will burn out the clutch in short order, but no matter what it is, it cant be good.

3) Going down the road shifting throughout the range of gears hasnt posed any problems. YET!. It is only going from rev to first, or viceversa, sometimes trouble going to 2nd.

Even though I have been driving standards since 1974, it is amazing how ignorant I am of them. I understand the basics, but not much more. I do however think this is NOT an adjustment problem because if it were out of adjustment, wouldnt the problem occur at all times?

Thanks for your help and patience.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-08-2009, 12:11 PM
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Re: my clutch...Help!

Our trucks share a common "Achilles heel": the clutch pedal is attached to the master cylinder push rod by a little bitty plastic bushing. It wears and breaks, I've had a brand new one go out after just a few pushes. (And yes, sometimes the planets will align and the clutch would seem to work just fine).

I'd recommend to fix that plastic bushing first and then see if there's any more issues (if so, we can deal with them once we get rid of a known trouble spot).

There's a couple of fixes. The real low-budget approach, which I used for a while, was to cut the little retaining nubs off the bushing, then use an e-clip to retain the rod eye. Worked OK. Eventually I got some brass rod and made a bushing out of brass, then I used a drill stop as a retaining collar. That setup is working great for me and didn't cost much.

Other folks buy a Heim joint off of ebay and replace the rod eye itself. They report good results too.

'94 F250 supercab 4x4, original owner, 4.10LS, DIY elec fuel, Tymar air, Beans tunes on VA 4 position chip, Adrenaline HPOP, VDO boost/pyro/outside temp gauges, Ford digital AIC, DPPI downpipe, gutted EBPV, modded turbo ped, Con OFE, add-a-leafs front/rear, Monroe Reflex shocks, Milemarker 449SS hubs...coming soon: 6.0 IC...wish list: Stage 2's
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-08-2009, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Re: my clutch...Help!

As I said, I am kinda ignorant of the clutch workings. Where is this little bushing located. I dont even know where the master cylinder is.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-08-2009, 04:58 PM
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Re: my clutch...Help!

Look immediately above the gas pedal, kinda work the clutch pedal with your hand and follow the linkage...the master cylinder rod with the plastic bushing is on the inside of the truck, the rod itself then goes through the firewall and the clutch master cylinder is located in the engine compartment on the firewall next to the brake master cylinder.

You may also need to check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder.

'94 F250 supercab 4x4, original owner, 4.10LS, DIY elec fuel, Tymar air, Beans tunes on VA 4 position chip, Adrenaline HPOP, VDO boost/pyro/outside temp gauges, Ford digital AIC, DPPI downpipe, gutted EBPV, modded turbo ped, Con OFE, add-a-leafs front/rear, Monroe Reflex shocks, Milemarker 449SS hubs...coming soon: 6.0 IC...wish list: Stage 2's
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-15-2009, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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Re: my clutch...Help!

OK, checked the linkage and all LOOKS good to me. Nothing loose or wobbly. Cylinder is full of fluid. Problem is getting worse. Now what?
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-15-2009, 07:20 PM
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Re: my clutch...Help!

That bushing will probably fail sooner or later, but that's not your current problem. When it fails, the pedal falls to the floor but doesn't push the pushrod. Your case sounds lile the hydraulics are just failing. Most likely the master is just no longer holding pressure except when initially pressed.

I've had to fix hydraulic failures on both my wife's trucks. First one we just replaced the failed slave and line, using the existing master, and bleeding the system. PITA! Lesson learned. Other truck, we got the complete pre-bled system, which was WAAAAY easier.

Meanwhile, DON'T use the brake to hold the truck back in this case. When this happens, SHIFT to neutral and just let go of the clutch pedal.

But the hydraulics are on borrowed time. One time, you'll push the pedal and it won't disengage the clutch.

Oh, one "elephant in the room" question: are you seeing any external fluid leak at the master or slave cylinder?
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 04:35 AM Thread Starter
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Re: my clutch...Help!

ok madpogue, I am right with you. Everything you said sounds exactly right. And no, no fluid leaking or shortages in the reservoir. lol, no elephants either. Do you have to disconnect the cylinder rod from the linkage to change the master cylinder, and if you do, shouldn't I replace the ring anyway while I am there. Isn't connecting and disconnecting the linkage a real pain?
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 04:11 PM
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Re: my clutch...Help!

Yeah, that nylon bushing/ring is junk. The Rhino Pak pre-bled assembly we got came with a pushrod, and even the switch installed, and the ring in the pushrod. It's sitting in my pocket right now, 'cuz I did what nashvillebill did with the little bushing cut out of brass tubing and a drill stop collar. But no, the existing nylon POS isn't hard to remove; just pry it off.
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