Not Diesel But E4OD Rebuild. - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-15-2012, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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Not Diesel But E4OD Rebuild.

My Dads buddy from work has a 1995 F350 4x4 with a 460. Truck has never had the trans rebuilt nor the motor and it is still running strong at 319K original miles.

He asked me if i could put in a new pump seal because his was leaking pretty bad. I did some reading up and took the trans out. Pump seal was so bad it gouged the snout of the converter. So i ordered him a new converter, pump seal kit. Two days later he ask how i felt about tearing it down and freshening it up. The truck still shifted decent but he just wants everything to be new because hes planning on restoring it.

So i ordered a complete rebuild kit, along with pump gears and a good manual.

Started tearing it down last night following the manual step by step and i got hung up on one step. Pulling the check balls from under the accumulator, main valve body and solenoid body. After i pulled the separator plate/ gasket it was obvious where the check balls were.

Manual calls for 10 rubber and 1 steel. In the manual it shows the locations of them in the trans. I found 9 even following where they were suppose to be and i was careful of checking under the plate when i pulled it off to make sure none stuck to the bottom of it.

I also found the steel check ball but it was not even close to where the manual shows. The steel check ball in this trans was on top of the spring.

After a little more reading online last night i found that some transmissions call for the steel check ball to be on the spring (Like mine was) followed by 8 rubber check balls. Well it still makes no sense since i still came up with 9 rubber.

Can anyone help solve this mystery? Again the truck is a 1995 F350 4x4 with the 460. E4OD transmission. Thanks!

99 F250 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel. CAI, TS Performance, SMEDING DIESEL 7 inch Mitre stack, 4 inch turbo back.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-15-2012, 04:05 PM
DIESEL BACON DIESEL BACON
 
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Re: Not Diesel But E4OD Rebuild.

Think I got ya. Send me an email at [email protected] and I'll send back the info I have. it shows 1 lg steel ball and 9 rubbers.


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-15-2012, 04:11 PM
DIESEL BACON DIESEL BACON
 
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Re: Not Diesel But E4OD Rebuild.

I'll try to post it here. Hope this helps.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf SKMBT_C652D12081511560.pdf (388.1 KB, 14 views)


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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-15-2012, 07:27 PM
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Re: Not Diesel But E4OD Rebuild.

Hope this helps

ball 1.jpg

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-29-2012, 12:27 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Not Diesel But E4OD Rebuild.

Thanks for the help everyone.


I have an issue and im stuck here in a panic! I got everything back together. Put the pump in and slid my input shaft it. Now it wont turn in any direction. I even moved the selector lever from park into gear and nothing. What the heck did i do wrong? I need help asap! I need to get this truck back on the road. Pretty upset with myself right now.. This has not been a fun process.

99 F250 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel. CAI, TS Performance, SMEDING DIESEL 7 inch Mitre stack, 4 inch turbo back.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-29-2012, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Not Diesel But E4OD Rebuild.

Output shaft turns great.

99 F250 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel. CAI, TS Performance, SMEDING DIESEL 7 inch Mitre stack, 4 inch turbo back.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-29-2012, 01:29 AM
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Re: Not Diesel But E4OD Rebuild.

You mean you are grabbing the input shaft by hand and are trying to turn it and won't turn? They are pretty stiff, I don't know if you can turn them by hand. Proper procedure I believe is to install input shaft first, then pump and torque down. Maybe you have something binding or forward clutch is not sitting right ( not all the clutch plates aligned). If you remove the pump, how does the input shaft turn?

Being in Park, Neutral, Drive won't matter as the input shaft is free to spin. When it is in vehicle in park and drive, input shaft will spin at approx engine rpm. When you put it in gear, it will become held by the forward clutch and the rest of the geartrain is being held by the output shaft (if the wheels are not moving)
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-29-2012, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Not Diesel But E4OD Rebuild.

I took the pump back out thinking like you said i didnt have the forward drum all the way seated in the clutches. With the pump out it turns fine by the input shaft. I kept the shaft in place and set the pump back in. As soon as the pump started to seat the input shaft got hard to turn. I torqued the bolts down and again i cant turn it by hand.

With the forward drum i used a straight edge to make sure the drum was below the face of the trans where the pump bolts to and it was. Thought maybe when i did it the first time as i set the trans down on the ground the forward drum fell out of the clutch plates a little bit..

But again with the pump torqued down i cant turn it by hand. I did however got vice grips on the splines of the input shaft, still tough to turn, but it does turn.

Maybe its so hard to turn is because everything is new and theres no trans fluid in there to lube all the parts up? I might sound like a moron but i just dont want to find out the hard and re expensive way...

99 F250 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel. CAI, TS Performance, SMEDING DIESEL 7 inch Mitre stack, 4 inch turbo back.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-30-2012, 01:21 AM
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Re: Not Diesel But E4OD Rebuild.

You need the trans held with the opening facing up to keep everything in place.

Mark
Former Ford Automatic Transmission Engineer

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-30-2012, 02:39 AM
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Re: Not Diesel But E4OD Rebuild.

I am assuming you are referring to the coast clutch drum as the forward drum, the coast clutch drum is the one that sits behind the pump and the forward drum sits on top of the forward planet.

I would think that your issue is with the clearance between the center support and the pump, most likely in the coast clutch drum. It can be difficult to get the overdrive clutch hub all the way down through the two clutches in the drum because of the sprag. Sometimes this gives me issues there and I will remove the clutches from the drum and install the overdrive clutch hub down onto the drum first and then install the clutches and steels to make sure its all the way down. Install it into the case all together by holding the overdrive clutch hub until it starts to pinch your fingers and then let it go and give it a turn and the whole thing will fall into place. Then install the overdrive clutches, pressure plate, snap ring, and pump.

You should be able to turn the input shaft by hand after the pump is bolted down.

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