To start with, thank you for all the information! I have read and read pages and pages of posts, and appreciate the cumulative knowledge. With that said, before I post my 'issue' I want to let everyone know that when I get it fixed, I will come back and post the results so that it can help someone else. There is not much more annoying than looking at suggestions of solutions and then going to the n'th page only to find there was no conclusion.
Ok, get some popcorn,
2007 6.0L Econoline 14 passenge minibus. I bought it from a transportation company for my large family(caravans weren't cutting it!). It was Ford dealer serviced, I was the third owner(the first only very low km before selling). I bought it at just over 300k. I have the service history. We only drove it for about 2k/3k before there as trouble. After a rigorous day of driving we blew the EGR
cooler. White 'sweet' smoke (lots of it). Turned off the engine had it towed home. Ouch, towing expenses on a minibus!
I mulled over various approaches to getting it "fixed".
- Factory EGR
- Factory EGR
Cooler + Oil Cooler
- Bulletproof EGR
Delete (not illegal where I live)
--Bypass delete, partial delete, software delete(wouldn't help the leak)
This is where you may start to groan.... In my defense, I had never worked with a HEUI
system, I didn't even know what it was. Steep learning curve. I had had multiple small VW engines over the years and never even considered that oil could be used in this way.
I went with the partial delete, replaced the egr
valve with a plug, and plugged and sealed the exhaust inlet. This effectively, as far as I know, negated the leaky egr
cooler, and prevented rad fluid from entering the intake manifold or exhaust.
For better or worse, this was my logic:
- I didn't know if there was head gasket damage. Did the rad fluid come from a gasket or the egr
? I would know soon enough when I refilled the engine.
- It's an econoline. Have you seen what it takes to get the intake manifold out without lifting the whole cab(not to mention heads)?
- This isn't a 2019!
- If the engine was toast(some people have had bent connecting rods after EGR
cooler failures) did I want to sink $350+ into an egr
cooler that would probably not be returnable?
- The oil cooler could
be plugged. Perhaps that's why my EGR
- There was no rad in the oil(it sinks right? , I drained some oil out to see)
- The engine would start. I turned it off immediately(dumb, possibly)
After an oil and filter change(Rotella T4<<<<----Did this cause my trouble), I started it up.
Everything seemed fine! There was some smoke when the exhaust heated up. I did a test drive up a steep hill and the smoke went away! It started and stopped normally. Checked fluids, all ok. As a family we drove it to an outing and then home again. About 40km round trip. I turned off the engine that evening no issue. The next morning it wouldn't start.
At present, there is no injector clatter. Nothing. During a KOEO
injector test, there are no errors, but no noise. All you can hear is the low pressure inline fuel pump spinning up.
Here is what I have done so far:
- Two new batteries
- $700 brand new stock FORD FICM
- Checked, and in some cases replaced or added ground straps
- Checked for fuel in the bowl(there is, fills right up again)
- Checked FICM
fuses and relays
- Got ahold of a code reader that would work with FORScan
65.23 - 51.95(and holds)
2139.79 - 1636.72(and holds)
2.42 - 1.94(and holds)
121 - 117
48.46 - 48.5
9.57 - slowly drops as I crank
2.11 - 3.14(and holds)
- Once, there was injector clatter that started slow and got faster. I didn't try to start because I had the rad fluid out to get a the ECM and FICM
(remember econoline, FICM
under Air Box, Fuses on Passenger side, front). The next day, no clatter, I changed nothing.
- It's a minibus. There are some mystery relays(see above steering column in gallery) and a Girdardin fuse and relay center that goes to the bus lighting etc. by the kick panel by the bus entrance. There is a rollover reset switch, but it doesn't seem to be tripped.
- How would the bus behave if the rollover switch WAS tripped?
- Would T4 have caused/contributed to simultaneous stiction in 8 injectors(if that's what's wrong)?
- Is there another 'kill' system on these rigs that would be causing this issue?
- Would 'part A' have damaged something to cause 'part B' issues?
- If it IS stiction, could I use something like WD40 to get it started, add some stiction cleaner, then change the oil out again?
- What do you think of those ForSCAN numbers?
Thanks in advance!