I have to SLAM the clutch pedal! - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-06-2010, 04:28 AM Thread Starter
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I have to SLAM the clutch pedal!

Okay its getting harder to start my truck. Now i have to slam my clutch pedal to the floor in order to get it to start. What do you think it is? Neutral safety switch or is there a bushing going bad in the pedal?

Thanks

Josh
95 F-250 ext cab lwb 4x4
custom tuned TW chip
modified H2E
DIY electric fuel
Valair ceramic clutch
Intercooled
4'' straight pipe
Dana 60 conversion in progress


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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-06-2010, 04:30 AM
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Re: I have to SLAM the clutch pedal!

theres a bushing in the pedal and its probly shot, go to the dealership n tell them what u need and get 3-4 while ur at it and throw the extras in the glovebox, u'll thank urself later

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-06-2010, 04:41 AM
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Re: I have to SLAM the clutch pedal!

Quote:
Originally Posted by fordfreak4life View Post
theres a bushing in the pedal and its probly shot, go to the dealership n tell them what u need and get 3-4 while ur at it and throw the extras in the glovebox, u'll thank urself later
Or get the $30 or so fix and never do it again. Check on eBay for the pedal fix.

Dave

'08 F250 6.4/Torqshift Spartan 310EL, Flo-Pro 4", White_monster air intake, RCD 4-link, RS9000's 584/1330
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-06-2010, 04:47 AM
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Re: I have to SLAM the clutch pedal!

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Originally Posted by smokyred View Post
Or get the $30 or so fix and never do it again. Check on eBay for the pedal fix.

Dave
the pedal fix? explain further, i never knew anything of this, i just put a 5$ bushing in mine every 8 months or so

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-06-2010, 05:06 AM
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Re: I have to SLAM the clutch pedal!

The "fix" mentioned is a modified Heim joint that is available on ebay for $40 or so (???). You cut the end off the stock rod and put on the "fix". If your rod end has not been damaged due to a bad bushing, you can install a new bushing with the tabs clipped off and use a shaft collar to keep everything on the linkage. I used this mehod on mine with a little grease on the bushing and had no issues in over 150k miles on the same bushing. Cheers!

97 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, Ext Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD: 94 F350 CC DRW PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, 3 DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer O/H Console, Trans Temp, Boost, and Pyro, Pedestal Mod, Gutted EBPV
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-06-2010, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Re: I have to SLAM the clutch pedal!

thanks for the info guys and do you have a link to the pedal "fix" cause i couldnt find it on ebay

Josh
95 F-250 ext cab lwb 4x4
custom tuned TW chip
modified H2E
DIY electric fuel
Valair ceramic clutch
Intercooled
4'' straight pipe
Dana 60 conversion in progress


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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-06-2010, 08:24 PM
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Re: I have to SLAM the clutch pedal!

Here is the LINK for the fix on Ebay. The price has gone down, so much I decided to buy one for future use.

96 F250 XLT 4x4, 4:10 gears, 5 speed, Tymar intake and HX hose, downpipe, pyro and boost guages, coolant filter, Luc clutch
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 08:39 AM
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Re: I have to SLAM the clutch pedal!

I had this very same problem. I put up with it for so long I developed arthritis/gout in the area of the ball of my left foot and the middle toe. I'm 32yo. I'm not kidding.

So... yeah. what bushing? There was nothing left that could even hold a bushing. Best I can figure is the retainer clip popped off long ago. Over time, the clutch rod had tried to walk off the stud. In doing so, it cocked the pushrod slightly so that all the pedal pressure was focused on the very edge of the rod end's ID. That would have cut through the bushing rapidly, and then kept on wearing into the outboard half of the stud. It also wore the opening of the clutch rod end into sort of a fat #8 shape. The rod being at a slight angle also caused the clutch master to leak.

I was losing about 1/3 of the pedal travel due to the slop in the linkage. No wonder I was stomping at the floor! When I first discovered it, I only did a band-aid fix. I was able to secure the rod inboard on the virgin part of the pin. Its full diameter also located well in the rod's end instead of slipping into the deeply worn section. My band-aid consisted of 3 pieces of bare #14 house wiring twisted up into a 'rope'. With that I improvised a heavy-duty twist-tie!.

Now that I'm working my hydroboost conversion, I tackled the clutch business. Firts off, the pedal assembly comes out pretty easy. You can sneak it out the left side without doing anything to the column.

I hacked off the pin and drilled it out. I cut a small triangle off the pedal support to let me properly tap the hole and thread in a bolt. I went to a 1/2"NF bolt, threaded and loctited into the clutch arm from the left side. Grease, washer, and a nylock nut to finish it off.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 12:28 PM
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Re: I have to SLAM the clutch pedal!

i had the same problem it was hard as hell to get it to start and im 220 lbs ...

but it ended up being the nuetral safty switch.

Thomas,
97 f350 cclb-7.3
sticks,clutch,bars

05 f350 cclb-6.0
deleted, studed


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 12:34 PM
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Re: I have to SLAM the clutch pedal!

I had the same problem about six months ago and found it to be the small plastic bushing had cracked and ruined the shaft, i was able to find a shaft thanks to my buddy at the dealership and replace the plastic clip. I would give the other option a look now though if it works as well as people are saying.

'97 F-250HD, DIY intake, 5" Mitre Cut Stacks, Bully Dog 6 pos, Gauges.
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