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Starter solinoid compatable

1K views 18 replies 4 participants last post by  yelnif 
#1 ·
Just wondering if the HD Stancor solinoid that we use to replace the GP relay can also be used as the fender mount starter solinoid?
 
#2 ·
It can but why?

The fender mounted solenoid does not have any high amperage going through it. It is more of just a switch than a solenoid or relay along with being a terminal for wires to connect to.
 
#4 ·
If you look at how it is wired you will see that there is a large wire from the battery going to one post and on that post you will also see the wire going down to the starter and the wire that is switched through the solenoid is a smaller gauge that also goes to the starter.
 
#5 ·
the main difference between the starter relay and the glow plug relay is that the starter relay is case grounded the glow plug relay in internally grounded.
in a pinch you can use a glow plug relay in place of a starter relay, but you would have to ground one of the small terminals to make it work
 
#6 ·
Thanks for that tjctransport- I knew they looked the same but I figured there was a difference.

Thanks Bugman- I am going to check that wiring when it warms up. IIRC, I only have one wire on one of the large terminals and 4 or 5 wires on the other large terminal. It has been this way since I've owned the truck and no problems but should I rewire it?

One small wire is on one small terminal and nothing on the other sm. terminal. I now know that is because the SS is case grounded.
 
#7 ·
It sounds like the wiring is correct. One large lug will have the battery feed, glow plug wires, starter wire, and one to the fuses box. The other side will have just one wire that goes down to the actual starter solenoid on the starter.

Here's a picture of mine.
 

Attachments

#9 ·
They can, water and DC voltage does not mix and if you see a green powder appearing on your cables their life is short.

You can do voltage test if you start having starting problems which will also tell if you just have a bad cable terminal or wire. A wire problem is harder to do with just voltage testing.
 
#11 ·
Not enough amps going through the wires to turn the starter over quick enough.

The PCM, and IDM only require around 10 volts to operate.
 
#13 ·
Yes, they are fine.

With out going through all of the other post just a couple of questions for you.

Have you tried plugging in the block heater for a few hours before trying to start, and is the block heater working?

You may just have to break down and drag your truck to a shop that can do a live diagnostic on it. But with it cranking good and white smoke coming out of the tailpipe it should start.
 
#18 ·
I did try plugging in the working block heater- did not start.

It is cranking good but there is NO WHITE SMOKE at the exhaust. I tried to edit the title but my time had run out. I did post a couple of times after that, that there was NO white smoke. Sorry for the confusion.
 
#14 ·
A week ago I did try plugging in the working block heater- didn't help then but I will try again.

I tried to edit the title but can't do it. It should have read cranks, NO white smoke, no start. I did mention this earlier in the thread to clarify, but maybe I should have started a new thread- properly titled?

As far as the shop goes- I had a mech./ tech I met come by, that is supposed to be a 7.3 psd. exp., but when he hooked up his laptop sized scanner to the OBDII port- I questioned this and reminded him this was a '94.5 which had not been reflashed and the system plugin was under the hood. He said what he was doing would work fine.
His diagnosis was the PCM/ and scanner would not communicate- I have read that if the '94 PSD PCM has not been reflashed then the OBDII connector is NOT active and the underhood is the connection for a scanner. ??
 
#16 · (Edited)
I'm not sure you can do much "real" diagnostics with the original underhood port and protocol. I know when I took my 94 with a problem to a dealer (probably 2002 or so??), they reflashed it to ALF4 (original was BEG8) to get better diagnostic capability from the activated underdash port.

Added in edit: OK, I did some digging and finally found an old link to the online 94 Powertrain Control and Emissions Diagnosis Manual: "1994 PCED". Section 18A will have the 94.5 specific stuff including the DTC codes and pinpoint tests for KOEO and CM conditions.

145 is Exhaust Back Pressure Circuit Low Input
512 is KAM Test Failure
546 is the IPR Output Circuit Check
972 is High To Low Side Open � Cylinder 2 (B)
974 is High To Low Side Open � Cylinder 4 (E)

Hope this helps! Cheers!
 
#19 ·
Todays update; I removed the driver side VC and during cranking there was NO oil squirt at the injectors(2,4,6,8,), also the injectors were NOT clicking/energizing.

I ran an 1) injector resistance test and they all read 2.8ohms
2)Injector plugin to valve cover connector resistance test- the high side was
1.2ohm and the low was 1.2ohm- (2,4,6,) and 1.5ohm on (8)
3)42 pin connector to VC and the high side was 0.3ohm for all/ low side was
0.2ohm
4) 42 pin connector to IDM connector and the low side was 1.3ohm on all/
high side was 1.5ohm.

I put everything back together and ran the onboard buzz test- all passed/ energized/clicked.
I then ran another KOEO test; Results: KOEO DTC 111, CM DTC111, CM 911(IDM pass).

So shouldn't this truck START, I mean seriously what am I missing? Is it possible that I still have air in the HPO system?

I did hook up two DVOM to the batteries; DS-12.71v PS- 12.58v, then turned ignition on andlet the GP cycle and dropped the DS to 11.5v and PS to 11.7v (65 second GP cycle). When I engaged the starter the DS dropped to 10.9v and the PS dropped to 11.1v... after cranking for 30 seconds the DS- 10.3v and PS-10.5v.

Do these start cycle voltages look alright to youall?

I think I am going to get an adult beverage and lay down in my hammock- you know for inspiration.
 
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