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In need of some information pertaining to crank/no start

5K views 37 replies 9 participants last post by  WL260 
#1 ·
Hi yall. I have a crank/ no start after a stall out while driving. This has happened twice in the past 2 weeks and now need some help narrowing the issue down. This OBS has had baby swamps, Hydra chip, 3 inch down & 5 inch exhaust out, as well as a 66D Beans Turbo installed less then 45,xxx miles ago. Now last week I went to pick up a load and on my way back into Houston I noticed a small power loss and punched it to give that turbo some boost and as I did the engine quit and I coasted safely off the highway and got towed home. The next day I went through the DTC's on the edge insight and got codes P0344-p1212-p0340-p1211. So I started by replacing the CPS, cuzzzz why not, and guess what?? it fired right up with no issue.

I felt comfortable it was the only issue and parked her. I had a job out of town so I left but after some debate with myself I decided to go ahead and replace the HPOP with a Stage 1 CNC Fab Hpop as well as new lines. I felt confident that it was the right HPOP for my wallet and after speaking with Corey (the owner of CNC Fab) I was sold. When I got back home I dug right in and pulled out the old heart and transplanted the new one. Once I got the ol gal all buttoned up, I instantly felt the performance gain with the new HPOP but during a test drive I punched it and the motor cut right out. Each time I tried starting it I got long cranks/no start and no smoke at the pipe.
So I let it sit for a few hours. After it cooled down it started right back up. I needed to be sure I received a good Hpop and ran a mechanical pressure gauge on both sides of the heads, Both giving the recommended specs of 500psi at idle, I however can not clarify what the pressure is at WOT due to the bastard stalling when it reaches optimal temp. I also called Corey from CNC Fab to bounce some ideas off of and he said it is most likely a high pressure oil leak at a injector.

If nothing makes sense let me know and Ill explain more thoroughly and what steps should I take to recover from these issues?
 
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#2 ·
Check the wire harness that is routed under the fuel bowl for deterioration. Check for a loose tin nut on the IPR . Also check the wire harness that runs across the HPOP reservoir, that may be in poor condition contributing to the cam sensor codes ... sounds like wire problem possibly bad IPR .


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#3 ·
Check the wire harness that is routed under the fuel bowl for deterioration. Check for a loose tin nut on the IPR . Also check the wire harness that runs across the HPOP reservoir, that may be in poor condition contributing to the cam sensor codes ... sounds like wire problem possibly bad IPR .
So my IPR was replaced last season, maybe 20,xxx miles ago or less. Is there some way to measure resistance, or duty cycle. I also have a Edge Insight CTS2 which can make it easier to read the numbers but I guess I am a little dumb founded as to what numbers I am looking for. Can I test the harness maybe for resistance?
 
#15 ·
Does it start without the chip installed? Cheers!
 
#16 ·
I haven't tried yet. After finding the corrosion I began cleaning things up. Then I also decided to clean up some loom, and re route my oil lines. So as of now my check list is reassembly and then Ill fire the ol gal back up and see what if anything is still causing my shutdowns. If it does ill most likely pull the chip and check. I also want to try and deadhead the banks. I feel like this is a issue with my oil system pressurizing:shrug: Maybe not...I keep yall posted.
 
#18 ·
Those pictures were horrible quality. So here’s a better one. Again these number were taken with chip in and after about a half hour of warm up.
 

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#21 · (Edited)
hey longjohn, Im attaching them again to see if they work. Im horrible when it comes to understanding these forums and attachments.
The first image with 600rpms is at idle with the chip still in after a good 10 to 15 mins of run time. As for the second photo at 1100 rpms was with the chip disconnected and a run time of easily 40 mins.

Now I went out and removed the valve covers and visually inspected the injectors with the truck running but I didnt notice any kind of seepage from the injectors, but after she idled for so long and got up to optimal temp she CUT RIGHT OUT. SHUT DOWN...LONG CRANK AND NO START:frown:




https://ibb.co/ZY274Fd
https://ibb.co/tq19hLS
 

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#23 ·
The CTS2 does a bad job at monitoring the engine temp, my dash on the other hand stated it was in the normal range. Im in Houston so its humid and pretty warm, about 98 degrees out. The dash shows nothing but as for the CTS2 it showed numbers around 60 psi but would not climb with cranking. When it was running, I pulled the ICP plug and it defaulted to 700 something and then after plugging it back in, the numbers dropped back into the 500s also...when it stalled I pulled the ICP and still no start.
 
#25 ·
Already ahead of you. I checked after the motor shut down and from a visual inspection Id say it was a little over 3/4 full or at 3/4 full.
The bummer is that after it cools down itll start right back up, run until hot and then basically shut down. so narrowing down the issue is difficult until it goes into the CRANK/NO START because how I see it as of now is everything works properly until shes hot which entails me running it for an hour at idle or drive it hard until it shuts down which does not take long, maybe less then 5 miles.
Im on the verge of pulling these injectors and inspect the o-rings, which again is a total bummer being I just replaced these suckers 3 years ago and they only have maybe 45,xxx miles on them.
Any other suggestions?


Hey jon, thanks for sticking with me on this one. This month is super tight and throwing money at her would cripple me and the ol lady right now haha.
 
#27 ·
try replacing just the coil from the ipr. had sam issues then just removed tin nut slid coil off, replaced off known good ipr and bingo.
you can ohm out old coil, should be 5 to 10 if i remember right. Used "forscan" on my phone to diag. IPR read 64% but oil pressure from hpop was 244psi. Need 500 to start.
IPR not allowing correct flow due to bad coil on ipr.
Good luck
 
#32 ·
Hey Keener, So I just recently got a EGT probe for my Insight CTS2 which will allow me to read my EGTs. Prior to this I had no way of checking the temps. This probe has sat on the shelf for a month now but after this issue it will be something I install this weekend and see what readings I am getting. Ill keep yall updated.
 
#29 ·
I had an issue with stalling when driving, like it was going into limp mode then couldn't get it started. Turned out that my mechanic had that happen to his 6.0. He removed the fuel tank and someone repaired the pickup tube with a piece of neoprene tube which disintegrated and left small chunks floating around which would eventually clog the tube and starve the engine. Once it stalled and was left to rest the chunks would drift out and it would start only for the cycle to repeat randomly. It occurred less often with a full tank than say 1/4 full. Change it out with a FORD OEM pickup tube with strainer basket. That problem went away for me but I still have a no start when hot until I can change ALL the o-rings on my injectors, glows & dummies, but that's another topic. Good Luck
 
#30 ·
When you had the valve covers off, did you see any of the inside harnesses damaged at all? Do you have the updated valve cover gasket and harness? My truck did the same exact thing when it got up to operating temp. Everything on scanner would look fine for data and even buzz tests worked fine until one time it cut out on cylinder 7. Took apart the connector at 7 and it was fried at the pin on the harness side.
 
#33 ·
O-K....Soooo I plugged the Hydra chip back in, let her idle for a good 30 mins in the 1100rpm position and got the engine oil temp up to 180 degrees aaaaand she didnt shut down. I have yet to give her a test drive though and with the old lady working itd be hard to get a pick up if the power plant shuts down on the ride. Im gonna wait till my better half gets home and then we will give her a rip and see whether or not she wants to run.

I did however notice my rocker arms were slightly loose on the pushrods the other day when I removed the valve covers. When I noticed this I did not check them with a feeler gauge being my main concern was to keep it running after she got hot. The rockers could only be slightly moved left or right, but this only applied to a hand few of them. It maybe time to replace these badboys any thoughts?
 
#37 ·
A crank/no start can be many causes, for instance I had the same issue three years ago and it was my fuel selector valve but in this case I believe it was the IPR. I did however change the ICP, HPOP, and IPR and now Im back to running again.

How this originally started was during a drive the motor cut off and then I got a crank/no start but in the long run I figured out it was a HOT/no start (meaning after it got hot, it would shut off and no longer start) Sooooo That is the gist of what my issue was and like I said I replaced the HPOP, ICP, IPR and that fixed my issues. If you have any questions just ask.
 
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