Hi yall. I have a crank/ no start after a stall out while driving. This has happened twice in the past 2 weeks and now need some help narrowing the issue down. This OBS
has had baby swamps, Hydra chip, 3 inch down & 5 inch exhaust out, as well as a 66D Beans Turbo installed less then 45,xxx miles ago. Now last week I went to pick up a load and on my way back into Houston I noticed a small power loss and punched it to give that turbo some boost and as I did the engine quit and I coasted safely off the highway and got towed home. The next day I went through the DTC's on the edge insight and got codes P0344-p1212-p0340-p1211. So I started by replacing the CPS
, cuzzzz why not, and guess what?? it fired right up with no issue.
I felt comfortable it was the only issue and parked her. I had a job out of town so I left but after some debate with myself I decided to go ahead and replace the HPOP
with a Stage 1 CNC Fab Hpop
as well as new lines. I felt confident that it was the right HPOP
for my wallet and after speaking with Corey (the owner of CNC Fab) I was sold. When I got back home I dug right in and pulled out the old heart and transplanted the new one. Once I got the ol gal all buttoned up, I instantly felt the performance gain with the new HPOP
but during a test drive I punched it and the motor cut right out. Each time I tried starting it I got long cranks/no start and no smoke at the pipe.
So I let it sit for a few hours. After it cooled down it started right back up. I needed to be sure I received a good Hpop
and ran a mechanical pressure gauge on both sides of the heads, Both giving the recommended specs of 500psi at idle, I however can not clarify what the pressure is at WOT
due to the bastard stalling when it reaches optimal temp. I also called Corey from CNC Fab to bounce some ideas off of and he said it is most likely a high pressure oil leak at a injector.
If nothing makes sense let me know and Ill explain more thoroughly and what steps should I take to recover from these issues?