New 95 owner problems - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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New 95 owner problems

So I bought my truck that didn’t run. I don’t know a lot about diesels I have general idea how the operate. A few years ago I bought a 97 that didn’t run and managed to get her running great, this one I’m stumped.
So I’m having a few issues, first is on the glow plug circuit, when I activate them the relay pulls in and out really fast you can hear the solenoid pull in for a second then let it kicks out. Sometimes the relay chatters and clicks longer than other times from 2 seconds to probably around 30 seconds. I went through pretty much all the grounds it does the same thing with the valve harnesses unplugged any ideas? Bought a spare ecm does the same thing. It should still start or at least try too, without the plugs rite?
The second issue is the truck doesn’t seem to crank over fast enough kinda sounds like it struggles to crank. It’s got newer batteries I load tested them they are good. I read they have a electronic solenoid on the tranny any chance it could be stuck and causing extra resistance in there to not allow it to spin fast enough?
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 01:11 AM
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Re: New 95 owner problems

Does the Wait-To-Start (WTS) light come on? Any CEL? I had a very hard time starting my truck stone cold in 80F temps with a bad relay. I would check every end of every battery cable for cleanliness and tightness. Bad grounds can cause all kinds of problems! Starters can make a huge difference so don't rule that out (maybe have it tested). And you can check the Glowplug/Injector wiring and Relay.

For checking the injector/glowplug wiring: From each valvecover gasket connection's outermost pins (2 per connector) to ground you should get 0.1 to 2 ohms (indicates good plug and wiring). From each valvecover gasket connection's center pin to each immediately adjacent pin, you should get around 3 ohms (indicates good injector solenoid and wiring). You should not get any continuity from any of the outer pins to the 3 inner pins (indicates no shorts between injector and glowplug wiring). You should also get 0 to 1 ohms from each of the external harness connectors outer pins back to the Glowplug Relay's large terminal on the GP side (indicates good wiring from external connections back to the relay).

To check the glowplug relay (GPR), measure the voltage drop across the GPR's large terminals. While the GPR is active (up to 1.5 to 2 minutes after the key is turned to Wait-to-Start) put your meter leads on the large terminals (one lead on one large terminal and the other lead on the other large terminal). The measures how much voltage is being "lost" across the relay. A reading of 0.3V or more indicates a bad relay. Also, check the relay’s control wires (smaller wires) disconnected from the relay for battery voltage at the Red/Light Green striped wire and ground at the Purple/Orange striped wire (check both when the key is turned to Wait-to-Start).


97 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, Ext Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD: 94 F350 CC DRW PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, 3” DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer O/H Console, Trans Temp, Boost, and Pyro, Pedestal Mod, Gutted EBPV
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 02:47 AM Thread Starter
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I was thinking maybe I got a bad battery wire I heard of them corroding under the insolation, I have a spare set of positive cables I may try. As far as the glow plugs I swapped out the relay and soleniod. The wts lights flickers with the relay clicking in and out. It does it with the valve cover harnesses unplugged. I will definitely check the resistances sense I now have numbers to look for. Will the truck at least smoke a little with out the glow plugs going through the cycle? Oh i also unplugged the bowl heater just Incase it was the culprit but no change.
I appreciate your help
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