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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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1997 with coolant in oil

I have a 1997 F250 extended cab with about 155k miles. I bought it from the original owner who took good care of it. Since I've had it I have been upgrading and getting things the way I like. I checked the SCA in the coolant and it was good but I went ahead and flushed the system and added a coolant filter and I have monitored SCA level since I did that, it has never overheated with me or the previous owner. I added the FS2500 bypass filter and started running Amsoil 15W40. After about 9k miles on the oil I took a sample and sent it in the Blackstone, I used a pump type oil sampler I bought off of Amazon and Blackstones container (I sampled from the dipstick).
I got my first sample back and it shows positive for glycol in the oil, it has 33ppm potassium (3 is normal), 16ppm sodium (4 is normal), 12 ppm copper (4 is normal) and 14 ppm lead (4 is normal). Viscosity was barely out of range. I dug through every thread I can find on this and yanked the oil cooler. The orings did not look bad but I did have some of the tubes plugged with solids. I went ahead and ordered a new cooler from Dieselorings as well as new gaskets and orings.
Now looking at it all it looks like I have a small leak since the levels are so low right now. I have not ruled out the possibility that the sample pump could have been contaminated (I should have flushed it but I did not), the sample jar was contaminated, I had coolant in the oil dipstick from a previous coolant change and/or leak I had when installing the A/C mod or Blackstone contaminated the sample. Those are not likely but with such low ppm levels I thought maybe it could be contamination (although the copper and lead levels show the coolant is attacking the bearings) so the cooler seems the most likely. Before pulling the cooler I removed the oil filter and pressured up the system to 16 psi and did not see leaks anywhere but the pressure would bleed off. The coolant tester did not mate up well with the cap on the overflow so I assume that was where it was bleeding down.
I plan on putting the new cooler in and adding new oil, running for a thousand miles then changing the oil and filters again. After the third oil change I will sample again but this time from the bypass filter. Any ideas?
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 02:11 PM
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Re: 1997 with coolant in oil

Other source could be a bad injector cup?

1997 CCFB 7.3, ZF5, 4x4, 4.10, baby swamps, TS6, E99 spyder, RiffRaff pipes, 6.0 FMIC, RSK, 315 toyo at
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2001 Excursion 7.3, auto, 4x4, 3.73, 6" Suspension lift, 37" Dick Cepeks
2000 E350 7.3, auto 2wd, 3.73, planning a TTB 4x4 conversion
21.9 liter family
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1997 with coolant in oil

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Originally Posted by 410customs View Post
Other source could be a bad injector cup?
I saw that when I was going through threads, it was also mentioned that the front cover behind the water pump is a possible source. With all the oil I will go through (I'm using Rotella until my oil analysis gets back to normal), coolant, full flow and bypass filters its getting expensive. I've already spent close to $2000 this year on it (new tires, starter, steering components from tie rod end to tie rod end) and last year no telling what I have spent (I added the FS2500, coolant filter, Tymar air filter and pre filter cover, new tank switching valve, new Red Head steering box, new A/C compressor and dryer, new GPR, two new AGM batteries, trans temp and EGT gauges, new rear end oil, new power steering pump and hoses, new serpentine belt, new CPS and probably more I cannot think of.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 02:44 PM
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Re: 1997 with coolant in oil

Keep battling...The 7.3 is a pretty simple machine and will reward you for all those parts invested
Remember its only 100% fixed when you throw the last part at it, until then these are money holes...... that's why good mechanics are gold if they can do proper diagnosis and nail the problem with fewer parts.

1997 CCFB 7.3, ZF5, 4x4, 4.10, baby swamps, TS6, E99 spyder, RiffRaff pipes, 6.0 FMIC, RSK, 315 toyo at
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2001 Excursion 7.3, auto, 4x4, 3.73, 6" Suspension lift, 37" Dick Cepeks
2000 E350 7.3, auto 2wd, 3.73, planning a TTB 4x4 conversion
21.9 liter family
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1997 with coolant in oil

Finally got it back together for the test run. New oil cooler (with old end caps, that thing was hard to get the end caps back on, had to use a ratchet strap even after lubing up the o-rings and end cap well. It was hard getting that end cap over that large o-ring without pinching anything), new block heater and cord, new waterpump (the front plate looked fine, that was the reason for pulling the water pump. Since I had it off I went ahead and changed it out), new thermostat neck and outlet neck, new upper and lower radiator hose, new full flow filter, new FS2500 bypass filter, emptied out and filled HPOP reservoir with new oil, drained all old oil and filled with regular oil. I just filled the coolant system with distilled water for now, I didn't want to waste $65 in new coolant if I had leaks. So far no leaks, I need to run it some more them dump out the distilled water and fill with new coolant. I'll run this oil for 1000 miles then drain it all and change the filters again. I'll run that a few thousand and re-sample to see if I show any more coolant in the oil. Two oil changes and drains should dilute anything left over from before I did all this work.
I will say that installing the cooler was easier with the water pump off, if gave much better access up front to get it on. Thanks for all the help.
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