95 powerstroke ball joint issues - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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95 powerstroke ball joint issues

I have a 4 wheel drive 7.3, with the dana 50 and it seems to eat ball joints. When I change them, I can never seem to get the bottom one all the way tight. I was wonder if there is anything i could be doing wrong or if there could be slop in the bottom ball joint hole and if ther is any way to change the bottom camber bushing cause it looks tacked in from the factory, the truck has the 4600lbs axles and when I bought it it had 2 in spacers running 305/70/r16. Any advice would be appriciated.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 03:11 PM
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Re: 95 powerstroke ball joint issues

Likely because the retarded spacers.
Take them off.
What brand balljoints are you using?

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1979 chevy c30 dually, sm465, 373's? Converted to 6.2 diesel, pump turned up and advanced a hair.(wrecked)
1994 ford F350 dually 4X4: 7.3 powerstroke, 5 speed. 6637, straight pipe into dual stacks. Cooper discoverer at/3's.
2010 Jetta TDI 40 or so mpg :flippa:
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 95 powerstroke ball joint issues

I always put on moot ball joints
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 03:26 PM
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Re: 95 powerstroke ball joint issues

Moog could be part of the problem.
Biggest issue will be the spacers.
I can remember if the d50 is the same as a d60, but the camber bushing is on the top.

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1979 chevy c30 dually, sm465, 373's? Converted to 6.2 diesel, pump turned up and advanced a hair.(wrecked)
1994 ford F350 dually 4X4: 7.3 powerstroke, 5 speed. 6637, straight pipe into dual stacks. Cooper discoverer at/3's.
2010 Jetta TDI 40 or so mpg :flippa:
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 95 powerstroke ball joint issues

I think you're right it is the top that's actually is the camber bushing but the bottom hole seems to be where I have the problem with not being able to get it all the way tight I was wondering if that bushing itself is replaceable. What brand ball joints would you recommend?
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 03:52 PM
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Re: 95 powerstroke ball joint issues

the lower ball joint presses into the knuckle
Your knuckle maybe worn out if you cannot get it tight
Sometimes they make an oversized BJ for this condition or replace the knuckle
I have tack welded them in place in the past, but that is not the best solution

I run
Mevotech TTX ONLY (Silver and green lower grade mevotech are garbage)
MAS Premium/Rugged ONLY (made in Canada)
Raebestos professional grade ONLY (good but not the greatest, gold and blue in color)

MOOG SUCKS they have gone way downhill in last 10 years......



Most ball joints are built with a plastic spacer around the ball of the joint = garbage will not hold up on big trucks
You want metal on metal no spacer and hardened parts
TTX and MAS Premium RD are only ones I would buy
The TTX is only made for the lower on our trucks so MAS fits the bill

http://mas-industries.com/premium-rd/

1997 CCFB 7.3, ZF5, 4x4, 4.10, baby swamps, TS6, E99 spyder, RiffRaff pipes, 6.0 FMIC, RSK, 315 toyo at
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2001 Excursion 7.3, auto, 4x4, 3.73, 6" Suspension lift, 37" Dick Cepeks
2000 E350 7.3, auto 2wd, 3.73, planning a TTB 4x4 conversion
21.9 liter family
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 95 powerstroke ball joint issues

Thanks for the info I will definitely get better ball joints now. But when I say I can't get it all the way tight I mean tight into the traction beam/axle housing itself, it's still good and tight in the knuckle. It's just when I start to tighten them down that I'll get the bottom tight then tighten the top but once the top is all the way tight and seated into the axle housing it seems to pull the bottom up and I can't keep it seated tight.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 04:37 PM
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Re: 95 powerstroke ball joint issues

oh so where the tapered stud of the ball joint seats, when you tighten down the nut on top let me guess it goes past the hole where the cotter pin sits and still is not tight?

The axle/beam portion has been reemed out too far by bad ball joint or somebody torqued the castle nut waaaaay too tight. ...yikes
First try a new ball joint, see if a good quality ball joint with hardend stud does not sit in there properly , meaning your current moog joint may have been stretched by over tightening. It will pull the studand ball up through the plastic spacer inside the top of the ball joint and never be right again.
If the new joint has the same problem, You can try putting a thick washer on before the nut........but I'm pretty sure replacing the whole beam is the best fix for that scenario

can you show me what you mean by "tacked in from factory"? If you can take a picture I can post it in this thread

1997 CCFB 7.3, ZF5, 4x4, 4.10, baby swamps, TS6, E99 spyder, RiffRaff pipes, 6.0 FMIC, RSK, 315 toyo at
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2001 Excursion 7.3, auto, 4x4, 3.73, 6" Suspension lift, 37" Dick Cepeks
2000 E350 7.3, auto 2wd, 3.73, planning a TTB 4x4 conversion
21.9 liter family
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 95 powerstroke ball joint issues

Yeah that's exactly what is happening, my hope was just to not have to replace the whole beam it's self just find a solution before resorting to that.

I'll try and get a picture sometime soon as the truck currently is still all together and I probably won't have time to hear into it until the weekend but I'm going to go ahead and order better ball joints before I even start taking it all apart.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 04:55 PM
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Re: 95 powerstroke ball joint issues

I have seen that plenty of times before
Try a new ball joint
In order to reem out the hole in the beam it has to be really bad, in order to stretch the moog joint thats in there now is super easy to over tighten the castle nut

The beam is built of some pretty damn tough Ford steel, the ball joint has a plastic spacer you do the math



See how there is gold colored plastic injected top and bottom of the ball portion of the stud? that plastic is WEAK as are any ball joints built this way
Maybe good for a Honda scooter but not good for F250

1997 CCFB 7.3, ZF5, 4x4, 4.10, baby swamps, TS6, E99 spyder, RiffRaff pipes, 6.0 FMIC, RSK, 315 toyo at
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2001 Excursion 7.3, auto, 4x4, 3.73, 6" Suspension lift, 37" Dick Cepeks
2000 E350 7.3, auto 2wd, 3.73, planning a TTB 4x4 conversion
21.9 liter family
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