Rebuild help - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Rebuild help

I got couple questions in the process of my rebuild.
I got the Mahle engine gasket kit.

There are two hpop gaskets. two different mounting ones to the front plate. and theres two different gaskets on top of the front plate. one has a screen and the other is just the seal. Which one should be used? when pulled off the gasket used was just the gasket no screen.

Installing the rear main seal and the front seal there was this metal ring that was on the inside of the seals. I believe they are used to keep the shape of the seals. because they come out really easy and the old ones didn't have them when removed. just want to be certain?

Also there is a threaded hole on the top front of my block right under the pop closer to the driver side. I don't remember removing that so I believe the machine shop still has it, but I'm curious what kind of bolt it is? I think i saw online that its a bolt with a spring?

Also my up-pipes move side to side when connected to the y-pipe into the turbo i believe its because of the up-pipe donut gaskets. I found them on riff raff are $7 for both but they are out of stock. everywhere else wants $20 for a damn donut gasket. any one know a place?

I'll post more when I get stumped again. thank you.

1997 7.3 Cali ECLB, 210k, 3in Diamond Eye Down Pipe, aFe intake, ts tuner chip, glowshift gauges
Just trying to keep it running

Last edited by chedda; 04-05-2017 at 05:11 PM. Reason: adding more
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 05:39 PM
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Re: Rebuild help

The metal ring inside the gaskets, this is usually a spring to keep the tension on the oil seal around the crankshaft. seals get installed w metal rings. If that is what you are talking about?

Use these much thicker then stock gaskets for up pipes:
stock vs Fel pro and similar (these are for a Chevy small block originally) these will seal up your up pipes much better than stock. \
The collector/baby's butt manifold is loose fit to the up pipes when you install the turbo and after a heat cycle or two you need to torque these down from under the truck



stock vs new




I found these at Oreillys in stock while waiting for the fel pros to come in the mail (same part number the Fel Pro's are blue)


FP - B194 I think is the part number that can cross reference

I ended up installing the fel pro's (only difference is blue paint, seriously)


You may need longer bolts and I chased all threads and covered all my hot side bolts with copper anti seize

1997 CCFB 7.3, ZF5, 4x4, 4.10, baby swamps, TS6, E99 spyder, RiffRaff pipes, 6.0 FMIC, RSK, 315 toyo at
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2001 Excursion 7.3, auto, 4x4, 3.73, 6" Suspension lift, 37" Dick Cepeks
2000 E350 7.3, auto 2wd, 3.73, planning a TTB 4x4 conversion
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 05:44 PM
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Re: Rebuild help

For hpop, need to know exact year of engine.
But you can use the 96-03 version on any year. F6TZ9417AA


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1979 chevy c30 dually, sm465, 373's? Converted to 6.2 diesel, pump turned up and advanced a hair.(wrecked)
1994 ford F350 dually 4X4: 7.3 powerstroke, 5 speed. 6637, straight pipe into dual stacks. Cooper discoverer at/3's.
2010 Jetta TDI 40 or so mpg :flippa:
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 05:59 PM
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Re: Rebuild help

That metal ring has to be installed or they will leak I am speaking from experance the seals are over sized a little and the ring gives a new sealing surface for the seal I install them alot the fix the groove some seals will cut into the surface.


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Upgrades:
|Bellowed UpPipes|160CC Injectors|Adrenaline HPOP|Rebuilt Turbo 360 Bearing|Custom E-Fuel|Manual to Auto Conversion
|Delete Pedestal|3" Down Pipe 4" Exhaust|Dual Tensioner and Belt|Stainless Steel HPX Crossover|Custom Banks InterCooler
|42 Gal Rear Tank 35 Gal Front Tank |DP Infinity Tuner
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Rebuild help

The metal ring that was on the rear main seal fell off while i was turning the crank. Thats why i was wondering about them. Ill give those donuts a try. The description in the riff raff site says that they are only temp. Fixes and will leak again so ill give those bigger ones a try.

Also the lpop i heard they have to installed a cerain way? Im using my old one because i dont see anything wrong with it.

1997 7.3 Cali ECLB, 210k, 3in Diamond Eye Down Pipe, aFe intake, ts tuner chip, glowshift gauges
Just trying to keep it running
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 06:25 PM
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Re: Rebuild help

LPOP has alignment pins on the mating flange. Make sure to install the inner rotor first and then the outer rotor with the pump casing next. The rotors should have marks stamped into them and I believe they both face the harmonic balancer.

96 F250 RCFB 4x4 7.3
03 Excursion Eddie Bauer 7.3
96 f350 CCLB Dually ZF5, custom flatbed, 3" dp 4" MBRP exhaust
95 F250 RCLB 7.3 4x4 conversion with 5" Sky RSK, D60 front, 18" American Racing, 35" Nittos, DIY SD intercooler, Melling LPOP, DIY 6637, Baby Swamps with TS6 and Swamps tunes, boost pyro trans

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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 06:45 PM
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Re: Rebuild help

Quote:
Originally Posted by chedda View Post
The metal ring that was on the rear main seal fell off while i was turning the crank. Thats why i was wondering about them. Ill give those donuts a try. The description in the riff raff site says that they are only temp. Fixes and will leak again so ill give those bigger ones a try.

Also the lpop i heard they have to installed a cerain way? Im using my old one because i dont see anything wrong with it.
then they may be just that I know they make them that have to use them like the one on my truck when I replaced it if you got it from riff raff and they say its temp then its temp.


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Upgrades:
|Bellowed UpPipes|160CC Injectors|Adrenaline HPOP|Rebuilt Turbo 360 Bearing|Custom E-Fuel|Manual to Auto Conversion
|Delete Pedestal|3" Down Pipe 4" Exhaust|Dual Tensioner and Belt|Stainless Steel HPX Crossover|Custom Banks InterCooler
|42 Gal Rear Tank 35 Gal Front Tank |DP Infinity Tuner
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-06-2017, 12:05 AM
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Re: Rebuild help

they are temporary from Ford too then and last a good amount of miles. The stock setup is similar, if anything these larger gaskets grip and squeezae better then stock
I can tell you my 97 was not making much boost at 202K miles and worn out. After rebuilding the turbo with the 360 thrust bearing, the billet wheel, the deleted ped, deleted EBPV, and the fel pro's I am making good tire ripping boost. I did have to go back and tighten the up pipes twice and I will check them again
I spent some time cleaning up the pipes before re install of the collector
You can also take your up pipes in and have them expanded slightly at exhaust shop to seal up better.
To me it is temporary because this whole 97 setup is gonna go. Soon I will update the drivers exhaust manifold to SD, add bellowed up pipes, get SD deleted pedestal, get SD turbo and rebuild / update, add SD intake spider and intercooler pipes, 6.0 intercooler
Then I will be happy(ish)

The way she runs now I have bought myself some time, I can focus on body/interior and then re visit towing upgrades and engine mods

1997 CCFB 7.3, ZF5, 4x4, 4.10, baby swamps, TS6, E99 spyder, RiffRaff pipes, 6.0 FMIC, RSK, 315 toyo at
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2001 Excursion 7.3, auto, 4x4, 3.73, 6" Suspension lift, 37" Dick Cepeks
2000 E350 7.3, auto 2wd, 3.73, planning a TTB 4x4 conversion
21.9 liter family
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-06-2017, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Rebuild help

Quote:
Originally Posted by masakimm View Post
That metal ring has to be installed or they will leak I am speaking from experance the seals are over sized a little and the ring gives a new sealing surface for the seal I install them alot the fix the groove some seals will cut into the surface.
The metal ring goes around the crank shaft? I cant figure out how to get the metal ring around. It is very tight around the crank. The rear main seal has a little side to side play on it with out the ring but it looks like it closes any openings around the crank still. Its a new mahle rear main seal. Ive heard when people replace the seal they can never manage to get it to seat correctly. The old seal that came off doesnt have that metal ring inside the seal. And has no side to side play.

1997 7.3 Cali ECLB, 210k, 3in Diamond Eye Down Pipe, aFe intake, ts tuner chip, glowshift gauges
Just trying to keep it running
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-06-2017, 03:29 AM
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Re: Rebuild help

Typically called a speedy sleeve, IIRC.
Should've came with installation tool.

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1979 chevy c30 dually, sm465, 373's? Converted to 6.2 diesel, pump turned up and advanced a hair.(wrecked)
1994 ford F350 dually 4X4: 7.3 powerstroke, 5 speed. 6637, straight pipe into dual stacks. Cooper discoverer at/3's.
2010 Jetta TDI 40 or so mpg :flippa:
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