Re: Rough Idle, Loss of Power, Stalls Out
Your numbers seem OK. What do they look like when it is loping? Try starting it in neutral and see if the loping on start stops. I would make sure that the oil level is good. I would also check the injector and GP wiring to make sure there are no shorts or opens.
For checking the injector/glowplug wiring: From each valvecover gasket connection's outermost pins (2 per connector) to ground you should get 0.1 to 2 ohms (indicates good plug and wiring). From each valvecover gasket connection's center pin to each immediately adjacent pin, you should get around 3 ohms (indicates good injector solenoid and wiring). You should not get any continuity from any of the outer pins to the 3 inner pins (indicates no shorts between injector and glowplug wiring). You should also get 0 to 1 ohms from each of the external harness connectors outer pins back to the Glowplug Relay's large terminal on the GP side (indicates good wiring from external connections back to the relay).
If the solenoids and wiring check out, you could have a loose injector poppet screw. You have to remove the injector solenoid to check for that. You can run it with the valvecovers off to see which injector is not discharging the same amount of oil as the others out it's discharge spout. The injectors could also just have worn poppets at 240k. New injectors will have an armature plate-to-body clearance of 0.004" and worn injectors will be less than 0.002". Generally, these trucks don't really smoke in stock form. Cheers!
97 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, Ext Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed
SOLD: 94 F350 CC DRW PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, 3” DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer O/H Console, Trans Temp, Boost, and Pyro, Pedestal Mod, Gutted EBPV