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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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uninstalling computer

recently had to purchase a new computer for my rig, had it installed. and i went to put my chip on and it wont work becuase there is to much wax and crap on the terminals so iam trying to get my pcm out of my truck.... and got stumped..... any help would be great

1997 f250 4 door shortbed with the wood grain, 4x4, island green, big tow mirrors, built tranny,billet tc, pyrometer and boost guages,4 inch superlift, kmc monster 18" wheels, toyo at 325s, cut off exhaust,pos superchip , idm mod, 6637 filter.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 07:17 AM
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Re: uninstalling computer

1994 - 1997 Ford F-250/350/Super Duty
Internal Module Installation Instructions

Before going any further,
**REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION**

Open the hood and locate the computer (PCM) harness connector. It is located on the driver's side firewall, beneath the brake master cylinder and next to the fender. The connector is rectangle shaped, approx. 1" x 6" with a 10mm bolt in the center. Using a 10mm socket, remove the connector from the PCM. The bolt is attached to the connector and DOES NOT come out. Remove the two (2) 10 mm bolts attaching the rubber boot to the firewall (on the top and on the bottom). Remove the boot.

On the driver's side fender, locate the two (2) 5/32” screws that hold the plastic fenderwell (at about 12 o’clock and 2 o’clock) and remove them. You will need a long object to pry the fenderwell down. A prybar or broomstick works well. At the 2 o’clock position, slip the prybar between the fender and the fenderwell about 6” – 8”. Pull up on the prybar to “pop” the fenderwell down. You should now have clear access to the PCM. Remove the PCM and release the prybar.

Many PCMs will have a coating of lithium (white) grease covering the connector. Remove the grease using a cloth or paper towel. There will also be a coating of clear silicone covering the connector.

Use a Scotch-Brite® pad to clear away the silicone. Acetone (nail polish remover) helps to clean the connector. (Note - DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER OR LACQUER THINNER!! Damage to the PCM can result!!) BOTH sides of the connector must be cleaned thoroughly but be extremely careful. If you are cleaning the connector and begin to see copper, you are cleaning too far. This may result in a poorly fitting or “loose” module.

Failure to properly clean the connector may cause the vehicle not to start and/or may damage either the module or the PCM. Any module that has failed due to improper installation WILL NOT be covered under warranty. Please note: 95% of all tech calls can usually be traced back to poorly cleaned contacts. Please take your time and clean the PCM connector thoroughly as it will save you unwanted headaches down the road.

It is recommended that you open the PCM case by removing the 6 case bolts with a 7/32” socket. This allows complete access to BOTH sides of the connector to ensure that it is clean. The PCM circuit board is sealed and is quite robust. However, to avoid damage from static discharge, it is recommended that you avoid contact with any of the internal components wherever possible. Once completed, reassemble the PCM case BEFORE installing the module onto the connector. This ensures that you do not accidentally install the module upside down.

Insert the module in the PCM and fasten with fiberglass duct tape. (Do not use any type of metallic duct tape.)

If installing a multiple program module, remove the (3) 13mm nuts which hold the parking brake assy. Pull the parking brake assembly away from the body and lay aside. This is to allow access to switch assembly when reinstalling the PCM.

Reinsert the PCM into the firewall the same way it was removed. Route the switch wiring through the hole in the kick panel. Reinstall the firewall boot and PCM wiring harness.

Turn on the ignition key and check for proper operation of the "Wait to Start" or “Glow Plug” light. If no light appears, TURN OFF the ignition key, remove the module and re-clean the edge connector. Once the light operation is verified, start the vehicle and verify that it appears to be operating correctly.

NOTE:
The “Check Engine” light may blink very quickly, appearing as little more than a slight flicker. This is an acceptable indication of normal function.

If removed, reattach the parking brake assembly. Reinstall fender screws. Mount switch.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 01:26 PM
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Re: uninstalling computer

Excellent writeup Bill.

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Re: uninstalling computer

awsome man thanks, i just wanted to make sure there wasnt something i was missing before i tore my wheel well out

tyler t.

1997 f250 4 door shortbed with the wood grain, 4x4, island green, big tow mirrors, built tranny,billet tc, pyrometer and boost guages,4 inch superlift, kmc monster 18" wheels, toyo at 325s, cut off exhaust,pos superchip , idm mod, 6637 filter.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-29-2009, 01:34 AM
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Re: uninstalling computer

My fender liner screws are stripped and frozen in place so I couldn't pry on the fenderliner. Also have broken several broomsticks prying on fenderliners.

With the hood open, cut a length of broomstick that fits from the bottom of the hood hinge to the fenderliner area in front of the PCM. Gently lower the hood and the broomstick will push/bend the fender liner enough to allow easy removal of the PCM. Got this one from a genuine Senior Master Ford Tech.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-29-2009, 05:19 AM
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Re: uninstalling computer

Thanks for throwing that in there! I've run into situations where the screws were stripped of blocked by mudflaps or running boards and had to do exactly what you described. The only problem I'd have was finding the appropriate length pole that would allow the hood to close enough to pop the fender and still leave enough room for me to get to the PCM.
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